I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

methinks you might end up melting that O2 sensor cable if its not wrapped in something. Other than that, good post! can't wait to see more.

Yeah it is a bit close, but it wasn't much further away from the stock header either. I bought like $50 worth of heat wrap so I guess I'd be silly not to wrap that too

[pimp my yaris]

Cant wait to hear how it drives.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

Cant wait to hear how it drives.

I can't wait to SEE how it drives.

I'm ready to start the car / crank the engine, but I'm currently doing battle with Zage's pan. This thing sucks. It's barely leaking at the moment from the side of the pan where the two nuts go on, but they don't fit on the Zage pan. Even after doing some drilling to try to get them to thread the stems I've had no luck. Waiting for my silicon + JB Weld to dry and see if I finally have a seal, after having to take it off again earlier.

[why?]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

I can't wait to SEE how it drives.

I'm ready to start the car / crank the engine, but I'm currently doing battle with Zage's pan. This thing sucks. It's barely leaking at the moment from the side of the pan where the two nuts go on, but they don't fit on the Zage pan. Even after doing some drilling to try to get them to thread the stems I've had no luck. Waiting for my silicon + JB Weld to dry and see if I finally have a seal, after having to take it off again earlier.

Ouch, so the part about Zage's oil pan being terrible are true. Still even with that it is a darn good deal.

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

I can't wait to SEE how it drives.

I'm ready to start the car / crank the engine, but I'm currently doing battle with Zage's pan. This thing sucks. It's barely leaking at the moment from the side of the pan where the two nuts go on, but they don't fit on the Zage pan. Even after doing some drilling to try to get them to thread the stems I've had no luck. Waiting for my silicon + JB Weld to dry and see if I finally have a seal, after having to take it off again earlier.

wishing you nothing but the best and no boom. Remember to prime it up

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by why?

Ouch, so the part about Zage's oil pan being terrible are true. Still even with that it is a darn good deal.

Yeah, but this is an entirely different reason. Honestly, this is the only fitment problem that has really been a deal-breaker for me.

Originally Posted by Yoda

wishing you nothing but the best and no boom. Remember to prime it up

IF I ever get to that part...
Just poured in some oil and guess what

LEAKS

Here's a quick time line of emotions:
then of course:

I sealed the whole inside edge of the pan this time, so I honestly don't know what to do. I drained the oil again and put some more sealant on the outside edge of the pan. This is exactly how things went last time. I fought a losing battle against leaks... I guess this time I'll be sure I give the silicon plenty of time to atleast tack?

Anyways, I've run out of things to do. Here's all that was left to do today (I can't reach the turbo / manifold with heat wrap while the car is raised).



So... yeah. I was originally going to do the oil feed and return first. I'm glad I didn't, because this whole situation is VERY discouraging.

[coheed]

This maybe a stupid question, but was the surface being sealed clean before you put the pan on? Seen a few people try to put new oil pans on with out taking old gasket material off the surface before. Not saying your dumb just posing the question.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by coheed

This maybe a stupid question, but was the surface being sealed clean before you put the pan on? Seen a few people try to put new oil pans on with out taking old gasket material off the surface before. Not saying your dumb just posing the question.

Yeah, it was as clean as it was going to get. The problem ultimately is that because there are 2 nuts that won't fit, the pan isn't clamped properly on the right side of the plan. With that said, the leaks are still only very small. There really should have been a gasket included with the zage pan (or even a factory one). I'm thinking if this sealant fails again, I'll try JB Welding the pan on (which should solve that clamping issue). Worst case, I'll fashion up some sort of gasket.

It's so frustrating to be stuck because of a minor leak that I simply can't plug...

[Nexus1155]

What kind of sealant are you using.

Take some pics of the area that is bad and how bad the holes are not lined up, maybe we can think of something to help you out.

I've only used JB Weld once on my car is when the mounting hole on my charge pipe came off -_-

[advocate]

giant zip ties on the intercooler is DEFINITELY ftw

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by advocate

giant zip ties on the intercooler is DEFINITELY ftw

Keep an eye on it tho. That friction with the metal frame on top over time, will start to slowly shred it away.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I don't know your process for mounting the oil pan but here's how they should normaly go on...

1. clean everything with a clean rag and make sure there is no oil were the silicone will seat.

2. lay a bead around the pan about 1/8" thick making sure you go all the way around the bolt holes.

3. when assembling, only snug the bolts enough to start pressing the silicone out the side.

4. let dry.

5. tighten the bolts to spec. (probably around 15-20 ft/lbs. not very tight)

Even if the pan is warped it should still seal with the method.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Leak is dealt with.

I'm currently having issues priming the turbo though. Pulling the EFI fuse and spark plus didn't cut it.

I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs.

[cdydjded]

Start the freakin car! I did not & have never primed a turbo. Once you start the car oil will go to the turbo immediately....

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Car started AND............








You guys gotta hear this thing! I'll take a video later. I currently have a small leak coming from the banjo bolt, and atleast one of my coolant lines is leaking.

My only concern was that the manifold / turbo / downpipe began smoking, but I think that may be the iron oxide burning. Definitely would like to hear some feedback regarding that.

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Car started AND............








You guys gotta hear this thing! I'll take a video later. I currently have a small leak coming from the banjo bolt, and atleast one of my coolant lines is leaking.

My only concern was that the manifold / turbo / downpipe began smoking, but I think that may be the iron oxide burning. Definitely would like to hear some feedback regarding that.

If you used Silicone Heat resistant coat and wrapping on exhaust these are surely the ones making that smoke. This smoke will last till 15minutes and would normally happen only at the first heatup after installation so be cool

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by Parmas

If you used Silicone Heat resistant coat and wrapping on exhaust these are surely the ones making that smoke. This smoke will last till 15minutes and would normally happen only at the first heatup after installation so be cool

Thanks man, that makes me feel sooo much better.

Just to clarify, a turbo timer shouldn't be necessary since I have the turbo water cooled, correct?

[coheed]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Thanks man, that makes me feel sooo much better.

Just to clarify, a turbo timer shouldn't be necessary since I have the turbo water cooled, correct?

No a timer is not necessary if its water cooled. I would still let it idle about minute/ minute and a half before cutting it off. But thats just me, I'd rather be safe then sorry.