I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease - Page 9 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Yoda · 08-25-2010, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Leak is dealt with.

I'm currently having issues priming the turbo though. Pulling the EFI fuse and spark plus didn't cut it.

I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs.

Not sure what you mean here. What happened? How many times did you crank it and for how long at each interval? Its an important step considering how fast the turbo is gonna spin at startup with no oil. Did the oil not get tru the lines?

Parmas · 08-25-2010, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Leak is dealt with.

I'm also worried to continued because at this point I most likely am flooding the engine with fuel, even after pulling the injector plugs.

I am not sure what you need to say with this sentence. There is no way the engine is flooding with fuel with the injector plugs pulled out unless:

1. The engine is already flooded with fuel with the previous cranking of course with the plugs connected.

2. If the plugs are replaced to colder side ones because of turbo, it is normal that engine do not start immediately or else the same like when you had the stock plugs. If the plugs are replaced, use the stock plugs to ensure good startup and then change them later. The important thing is not to drive with boost on stock plugs.

3. Plugs could be wet with fuel effecting spark. Remove and clean all 4 with a wire brush in the meantime check the plug gap is within tolerance.

There could be more reasons but one of these should solve the problem.

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-25-2010, 05:41 PM

Currently waiting for my JB Weld to dry, lemme explain a few things.

Originally I thought I was flooding the engine because the engine bay smelled strongly of gasoline, even after pulling the EFI fuse. I then realized there were actually two EFI fuses, so I pulled them both. I also had the spark plugs unplugged.

The reason it wasn't priming was because originally I was only cranking the engine for about 5 second intervals (I was afraid I would kill the battery). The oil pump must not have had enough time to work because when I cranked it longer, my oil pressure gauge finally began building pressure around 10 seconds.

Once I had that figured out, I cranked the engine 6 times for 10-15 seconds, or about however long it took oil pressure to build to 20 psi. I knew it had reached the turbo because I had oil that had leaked onto my coolant line. So that was arguably the first leak I've ever been happy to see.

So at this point, I'm currently just cleaning up any remaining leaks. Should be able to get tuned tomorrow, and (hopefully) later I'll run up to Advance Auto and get my CEL code read. Most likely has something to do with the MAF or O2... Not surprised to see it though.

Also, I've figured out exactly what the smoke is - leaking oil burning. That should be solved shortly.

Yoda · 08-25-2010, 05:51 PM

keep on keeping on... you almost there

Nexus1155 · 08-26-2010, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Start the freakin car! I did not & have never primed a turbo

We have and have known people who have started a car without priming the car and they ruined the turbo or blew seals, if you drain the oil, it doesnt instanly just get oil. It takes a little bit to get up to the turbo. It makes sense doesn't it? Oil doesn't just shoot up there at lightning speed. Some places even prefill there turbos with fluid just so it is lubricated when you install it, most just come dry as a bone.

Another way to do it is to remove the connectors to the ECU and it won't start just crank.

Usually smoke burning off is also from working on the hot area with oil or another substance on your hand needs to burn off, but like someone said it could be header wrap or paint too. ( Well I wrote that for nothing since I just read the last part of your post lol)

Glad to see its working well for you :D

cali yaris · 08-26-2010, 01:06 AM

yay "almost" welcome to the Club

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-26-2010, 03:28 AM

I definitely agree with priming ANY turbo. It's easy to do and there's a million ways to do it, so why not?

Nexus, reading your post reminded me of something interesting I noticed when I first inspected the turbo. I think Zage sent me a "pre-primed" turbocharger. There was oil on it, and at the time I immediately dismissed it because I thought it had simply come off my hands. Eh, doesn't matter now.

Current progress: all coolant leaks are sealed. Have a very slight leak coming from the banjo bolt that I resealed again, so that should be covered. The return flange on the turbo is leaking quite a bit of oil though... Will address that tomorrow... er, later.

Oh and also... My CEL disappeared, once again. So it was probably that supposed TB code I seem to get every time the ECU is reset. Should be interesting to see if I get another one when I start driving around.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

yay "almost" welcome to the Club

Man did I earn it.

Nexus1155 · 08-26-2010, 10:25 AM

Yeah man, why not take precautions? Honestly. It's a car, what can go wrong will go wrong. In the S4 I need to take the engine out to swap turbos, and the lines need to be in specific places or they will melt from excessive heat. It's little things like priming the turbos gives peace of mind not having to go through BS removing and installing them again. I just ran without a cluster to see if it will work and run, apparently my oil pressure was low, no cluster, no lights. KNOCK KNOCK KABOOM goes one of my rods.

Yeah, the turbos usually have little caps on them, one time one was full of oil and just spilled all over my lap.

-_- the coolant line you JB Welded? Is the oil return gasketed?

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-26-2010, 05:43 PM

Still (patiently) battling an oil leak from the turbo. I'm not entirely sure where it's coming from... There's definitely a small leak at the least from the banjo bolt, but I still don't know about the return flange. I've used like half a tube of JB Weld at this point lol... I think the problem is the leak is in a spot that I can't reach.

And yes, the oil return has some sort of gasket.

cdydjded · 08-26-2010, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Still (patiently) battling an oil leak from the turbo. I'm not entirely sure where it's coming from... There's definitely a small leak at the least from the banjo bolt, but I still don't know about the return flange. I've used like half a tube of JB Weld at this point lol... I think the problem is the leak is in a spot that I can't reach.

And yes, the oil return has some sort of gasket.

Where is it that you are using the JB Weld? If it for the fittings you problem lies there. JB Weld is not intended for that use...

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-27-2010, 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdydjded

Where is it that you are using the JB Weld? If it for the fittings you problem lies there. JB Weld is not intended for that use...

I'm trying to seal the edges of the fittings. I know it isn't exactly how it's supposed to be used, but it has worked.

What I'm currently thinking is the way the return line is setup is causing a huge oil buildup, thus causing a large enough rise in pressure to finally leak out of the return gasket. It's the only thing that makes sense at the moment... I made sure all my seals were VERY tight.

Parmas · 08-27-2010, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

I'm trying to seal the edges of the fittings. I know it isn't exactly how it's supposed to be used, but it has worked.

What I'm currently thinking is the way the return line is setup is causing a huge oil buildup, thus causing a large enough rise in pressure to finally leak out of the return gasket. It's the only thing that makes sense at the moment... I made sure all my seals were VERY tight.

VERY is NOT always good for seals. An example of an oil filter VERY tightened will probably if not sure that you blow your seal and leaks almost immidiately with no pressure at all.

Just a hint!

cali yaris · 08-27-2010, 12:13 PM

Quote:

What I'm currently thinking is the way the return line is setup is causing a huge oil buildup, thus causing a large enough rise in pressure to finally leak out of the return gasket.

I doubt it. I had a return line on my tC that was too small and would back up. The oil would back up into the turbo and cause smoke. Definitely didn't blow any seals, there isn't any pressure in the return line. I'm pretty sure it just gravity feeds down to the pan, right?

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-27-2010, 02:36 PM

Based on what you guys have said and what I've read, I'm pretty convinced I over tightened the flange and thus damaged the gasket. I was watching the oil while my car was idling and that's exactly where it was coming from.

Nexus1155 · 08-27-2010, 03:09 PM

well atleast its an easy fix, alot of places have Mr. Gasket material. I'd even ship you some if I didn't give the rest to my DSM buddy, but im sure you want it fixed ASAP too lol. The stuff I had for gaskets might have been a little too intense for just a drain though.

Hurry up and fix it so we can see some vids!!!! :)

pimp my yaris · 08-27-2010, 04:19 PM

I would buy some paper gasket material from local auto parts store and cut it to the shape you need. Then coat it with a light layer of rtv silicone sealent. Then reatach and dont overtighten the bolts. If its to tight the gasket will just squeeze out the sides. Good luck Jerzy

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-27-2010, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I would buy some paper gasket material from local auto parts store and cut it to the shape you need. Then coat it with a light layer of rtv silicone sealent. Then reatach and dont overtighten the bolts. If its to tight the gasket will just squeeze out the sides. Good luck Jerzy

Worst case I'll be doing that. I'll have to chisel off the JB Weld but eh. The banjo bolt is definitely leaking as well, and I can't reach it with sealant.

If you guys haven't figured it out, I'm desperate to NOT have to pull the turbo back out. The thought of doing that...

Yeah and Nexus, I'm as eager as you are dude. I have a boosted Yaris sitting in my driveway, and the only thing stopping me from driving it is a tiny oil leak.

EDIT: Forgot to mention I'm already almost done putting together my install guide, if anyone is interested. I tried to make it as comprehensive as possible.

Focus_Sh1ft · 08-28-2010, 12:35 AM

Got home from work, I seem to have drastically decreased leakage at this point SO...

Took the car for a spin...

Drove conservatively to get some premium gas...

Then immediately burned out of the gas station where by I almost got pulled over!

I'm honestly at a loss for words at the torque I get. THIS IS THE COOLEST THING EVER LOL. Can you tell this is my first time in a forced induction car?

So anyways, I noticed I was getting 1-2 pounds of boost at about 2300 rpm, and at 3000 rpm I was up to 6 (the zage wastegate is set to .5 bar = 7.25 psi). In other words, this is PERFECT.

I'm convinced every cut and bruise, as well as every penny spent, was more than worth it. Can't wait to get familiar with my new car. Is this thing really still a yaris?

08-26-2010, 01:06 AM	#150
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	yay "almost" welcome to the Club __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

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08-25-2010, 05:41 PM	#147
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Currently waiting for my JB Weld to dry, lemme explain a few things. Originally I thought I was flooding the engine because the engine bay smelled strongly of gasoline, even after pulling the EFI fuse. I then realized there were actually two EFI fuses, so I pulled them both. I also had the spark plugs unplugged. The reason it wasn't priming was because originally I was only cranking the engine for about 5 second intervals (I was afraid I would kill the battery). The oil pump must not have had enough time to work because when I cranked it longer, my oil pressure gauge finally began building pressure around 10 seconds. Once I had that figured out, I cranked the engine 6 times for 10-15 seconds, or about however long it took oil pressure to build to 20 psi. I knew it had reached the turbo because I had oil that had leaked onto my coolant line. So that was arguably the first leak I've ever been happy to see. So at this point, I'm currently just cleaning up any remaining leaks. Should be able to get tuned tomorrow, and (hopefully) later I'll run up to Advance Auto and get my CEL code read. Most likely has something to do with the MAF or O2... Not surprised to see it though. Also, I've figured out exactly what the smoke is - leaking oil burning. That should be solved shortly.

08-25-2010, 05:51 PM	#148
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	keep on keeping on... you almost there

08-26-2010, 10:25 AM	#152
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	Yeah man, why not take precautions? Honestly. It's a car, what can go wrong will go wrong. In the S4 I need to take the engine out to swap turbos, and the lines need to be in specific places or they will melt from excessive heat. It's little things like priming the turbos gives peace of mind not having to go through BS removing and installing them again. I just ran without a cluster to see if it will work and run, apparently my oil pressure was low, no cluster, no lights. KNOCK KNOCK KABOOM goes one of my rods. Yeah, the turbos usually have little caps on them, one time one was full of oil and just spilled all over my lap. -_- the coolant line you JB Welded? Is the oil return gasketed?

08-26-2010, 05:43 PM	#153
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Still (patiently) battling an oil leak from the turbo. I'm not entirely sure where it's coming from... There's definitely a small leak at the least from the banjo bolt, but I still don't know about the return flange. I've used like half a tube of JB Weld at this point lol... I think the problem is the leak is in a spot that I can't reach. And yes, the oil return has some sort of gasket.

08-27-2010, 02:36 PM	#158
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Based on what you guys have said and what I've read, I'm pretty convinced I over tightened the flange and thus damaged the gasket. I was watching the oil while my car was idling and that's exactly where it was coming from.

08-27-2010, 03:09 PM	#159
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	well atleast its an easy fix, alot of places have Mr. Gasket material. I'd even ship you some if I didn't give the rest to my DSM buddy, but im sure you want it fixed ASAP too lol. The stuff I had for gaskets might have been a little too intense for just a drain though. Hurry up and fix it so we can see some vids!!!! :)

08-27-2010, 04:19 PM	#160
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	I would buy some paper gasket material from local auto parts store and cut it to the shape you need. Then coat it with a light layer of rtv silicone sealent. Then reatach and dont overtighten the bolts. If its to tight the gasket will just squeeze out the sides. Good luck Jerzy

08-28-2010, 12:35 AM	#162
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Got home from work, I seem to have drastically decreased leakage at this point SO... Took the car for a spin... Drove conservatively to get some premium gas... Then immediately burned out of the gas station where by I almost got pulled over! I'm honestly at a loss for words at the torque I get. THIS IS THE COOLEST THING EVER LOL. Can you tell this is my first time in a forced induction car? So anyways, I noticed I was getting 1-2 pounds of boost at about 2300 rpm, and at 3000 rpm I was up to 6 (the zage wastegate is set to .5 bar = 7.25 psi). In other words, this is PERFECT. I'm convinced every cut and bruise, as well as every penny spent, was more than worth it. Can't wait to get familiar with my new car. Is this thing really still a yaris?