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Old 03-12-2009, 08:54 AM   #1
bieniman
 
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Tweak engine 1NZ FE

Hi Guys,

I own a Vitz rs 1.5 2001 AT, no turbo,

How can I tweak the engine to get more performance, without installing Turbo or supercharger?

Just minor engine tweaks to improve the "Performance"?

Thanx
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Old 03-12-2009, 09:07 AM   #2
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IBBLAZINBLUE

the usual parts, pulleys, intake, exhaust. but nothing will match forced induction.
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:27 PM   #3
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Hi there, welcome to the forum.

Your car is more related to a scion xb/xa or an US Echo than to a second gen Yaris that is what 95% of the members of this forum have.

In other words, if you are looking for an intake, header, lightweight pulley, then you have to look for scion / echo parts. Those will work for your car.

Suspension parts (springs, shocks, coilovers) form those cars will also work on your car.

If you want some extra power with bolt on parts only, the general accepted list of mods will be:

1) Cold Air Intake
2) Header
3) Cat-back exhaust (in you case it will have to be custom made) go for 2- 2.25" pipe diameter. You can delete your cat converter if you don't have local laws against it.
4) Lightweight / underdrive crank pulley.

All of the above would give a little increase in power and will help you rev the engine more freely.
Gains can vary from 5whp to 15whp with the above list of mods...


Also, you car is a 2001. Make sure everything is in good running condition. Depending on the maintenance, a general tune up might be in order.

Take a look at the suspension section for some advise also. Usually suspension mods are more rewarding than power mods on these little cars. With some little mods you can make it handle much better.
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:22 PM   #4
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wow thanx for replying everyone,

Keep em coming......
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:40 AM   #5
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i differ with alot of peoples views on cat delete. I say either keep it, get a higher flow cat, or get the right resister to pop in line of your secondary o2 sensor...

its why alot of cat delete aftermarket exhausts cause check engine lights...the nitto one will without a o2 sensor fooler.

either way, without that o2 sensor reading right, you will most likely loose power because most car ECU's go into limp mode when the secondary o2 shows a catalist efficiency code...kiss fuel milage and HP goodbye,lol.

i kept my stock cat, because there is no need to straight pipe a engine that doesnt even put 100hp to the wheels...why fight with CEL's and local DEQ and law enforcement for such minimal gains is the way I look at it.



anyway, exhaust, intake, pullys, mounts, suspension goodies, ripping every ounce of weight off the car you can will help...but, keep in mind, you have a car that will most likely weigh 2500lbs with you in it, that will only make 115 or so horsepower at the crank with bolt ons, and a sluggish automatic transmission to top it off.

lets face it, if you want one of these things to be anywhere near almost quick, you will need to toss boost at it. you will quickly spend over $1000us if you are buying name brand parts in bolt ons alone...why not save that money and wait for a good turbo kit to come out that should be in the $2k range and will give you way more get up and go than intake,exhaust,pullys, and suspension mods.
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Old 03-13-2009, 02:20 AM   #6
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doing the bolt-ons, a little at a time, is FUN. The process itself can be very enjoyable.
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Old 03-13-2009, 05:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spades View Post

i kept my stock cat, because there is no need to straight pipe a engine that doesnt even put 100hp to the wheels...why fight with CEL's and local DEQ and law enforcement for such minimal gains is the way I look at it.
yes it does
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Old 03-13-2009, 02:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spades View Post
i differ with alot of peoples views on cat delete. I say either keep it, get a higher flow cat, or get the right resister to pop in line of your secondary o2 sensor...

its why alot of cat delete aftermarket exhausts cause check engine lights...the nitto one will without a o2 sensor fooler.

either way, without that o2 sensor reading right, you will most likely loose power because most car ECU's go into limp mode when the secondary o2 shows a catalist efficiency code...kiss fuel milage and HP goodbye,lol.

i kept my stock cat, because there is no need to straight pipe a engine that doesnt even put 100hp to the wheels...why fight with CEL's and local DEQ and law enforcement for such minimal gains is the way I look at it.



anyway, exhaust, intake, pullys, mounts, suspension goodies, ripping every ounce of weight off the car you can will help...but, keep in mind, you have a car that will most likely weigh 2500lbs with you in it, that will only make 115 or so horsepower at the crank with bolt ons, and a sluggish automatic transmission to top it off.

lets face it, if you want one of these things to be anywhere near almost quick, you will need to toss boost at it. you will quickly spend over $1000us if you are buying name brand parts in bolt ons alone...why not save that money and wait for a good turbo kit to come out that should be in the $2k range and will give you way more get up and go than intake,exhaust,pullys, and suspension mods.

OK, you got a few things right and a few things wrong.

First.... The catalist efficiency code won't put the car into limp mode.

The sensor behind the cat is not used by the car's ECU to modified the running parameters. It only monitors the function of the CAT converter.

The sensor on the header on the other hand would throw the car into limp mode if removed. You don't want to mess around with that one.

On his car, getting rid of the CEL will cost him $5 in parts.... No resistors needed. Just an spark plug non fouler... or a custom made spacer.
I have a car just like his... I know what I'm talking about.

Deleting the cat would obviously not be a good idea if there actually is a local regulation against it.

Yes, removing the Cat on this car will give only a small improvement... But if he is doing a custom exhaust... it will be a free mod... as he will only need a few more inches of pipe.
So a small gain for almost free... is better than no mod at all...

The Only way his car is going to weight 2,500lbs with him inside would be if he weights close to 500lbs as his car is just above 2,000lbs


His car is a model 2001... how much more years would he need to wait for a Turbo Kit to be availabe?
Actually there is one available... the TRD turbo kit. Don't know how much it will cost on his country... but over here the kit was sold for $5,000 on the dealer to provide a total of 145hp at the fly wheel. That's a 35 hp gain from stock.
So $1,000 for 10hp does not sound that bad to me.

He can go the custom route of course... if he has the resources and skills...

Finally... he has a really nice car right there...

If it is actually an RS vitz...
is Lighter than the US Yar
Has 4 wheel disc brakes
Traction control
ABS
Factory mild sport tuned suspension...


Plus the Yaris down here south of the border is actually an expensive car...
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Old 03-13-2009, 02:49 PM   #9
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First gen Vitz RS
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File Type: jpg 2001_Toyota_Vitz_RS_(NCP13).jpg (25.7 KB, 920 views)
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Old 03-14-2009, 10:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CASTREX View Post
OK, you got a few things right and a few things wrong.

First.... The catalist efficiency code won't put the car into limp mode.

The sensor behind the cat is not used by the car's ECU to modified the running parameters. It only monitors the function of the CAT converter.

The sensor on the header on the other hand would throw the car into limp mode if removed. You don't want to mess around with that one.

On his car, getting rid of the CEL will cost him $5 in parts.... No resistors needed. Just an spark plug non fouler... or a custom made spacer.
I have a car just like his... I know what I'm talking about.

Deleting the cat would obviously not be a good idea if there actually is a local regulation against it.

Yes, removing the Cat on this car will give only a small improvement... But if he is doing a custom exhaust... it will be a free mod... as he will only need a few more inches of pipe.
So a small gain for almost free... is better than no mod at all...

The Only way his car is going to weight 2,500lbs with him inside would be if he weights close to 500lbs as his car is just above 2,000lbs


His car is a model 2001... how much more years would he need to wait for a Turbo Kit to be availabe?
Actually there is one available... the TRD turbo kit. Don't know how much it will cost on his country... but over here the kit was sold for $5,000 on the dealer to provide a total of 145hp at the fly wheel. That's a 35 hp gain from stock.
So $1,000 for 10hp does not sound that bad to me.

He can go the custom route of course... if he has the resources and skills...

Finally... he has a really nice car right there...

If it is actually an RS vitz...
is Lighter than the US Yar
Has 4 wheel disc brakes
Traction control
ABS
Factory mild sport tuned suspension...


Plus the Yaris down here south of the border is actually an expensive car...


i said most cars will go into limp mode. you ever listened to cars run when the back o2 sensor craps out or someone straight pipes their cat? i have seen several ricer cars come into my shop with this "mod" and they run like crap. i havent straight piped a yaris, so i dont know if the yaris will or not. either way, there are ways to trick the o2 sensor, and the resistor is the better way to do it IMO. sorry if i dont go with the autozone method when it comes to tuning. i still say keep the cat. the car was designed to run with a cat, and unless you are making over 150hp, the gain is minimal even if you fool the sensor.

according to the curb weights i have found for 01 vitz liftbacks, their advertised DRY curb weight is 2000-2500lbs, with the higher trim level models being the heavier ones, so, with fuel, oil, and him in the car, i dont think 2500lbs is that far off.

and im sorry, but even if he doesnt wait for a kit to come out, a custom turbo set up is better bang for buck than all motor mods.


and i never said he didnt have a nice car, i just implied that these cars are not fast, and that it takes alot to even make them semi sporty...sorry if a 16 to 17 second quarter mile time doesnt make me wet my pants.
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Old 03-27-2009, 10:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CASTREX View Post
OK, you got a few things right and a few things wrong.

First.... The catalist efficiency code won't put the car into limp mode.

The sensor behind the cat is not used by the car's ECU to modified the running parameters. It only monitors the function of the CAT converter.

The sensor on the header on the other hand would throw the car into limp mode if removed. You don't want to mess around with that one.

On his car, getting rid of the CEL will cost him $5 in parts.... No resistors needed. Just an spark plug non fouler... or a custom made spacer.
I have a car just like his... I know what I'm talking about.

Deleting the cat would obviously not be a good idea if there actually is a local regulation against it.

Yes, removing the Cat on this car will give only a small improvement... But if he is doing a custom exhaust... it will be a free mod... as he will only need a few more inches of pipe.
So a small gain for almost free... is better than no mod at all...

The Only way his car is going to weight 2,500lbs with him inside would be if he weights close to 500lbs as his car is just above 2,000lbs


His car is a model 2001... how much more years would he need to wait for a Turbo Kit to be availabe?
Actually there is one available... the TRD turbo kit. Don't know how much it will cost on his country... but over here the kit was sold for $5,000 on the dealer to provide a total of 145hp at the fly wheel. That's a 35 hp gain from stock.
So $1,000 for 10hp does not sound that bad to me.

He can go the custom route of course... if he has the resources and skills...

Finally... he has a really nice car right there...

If it is actually an RS vitz...
is Lighter than the US Yar
Has 4 wheel disc brakes
Traction control
ABS
Factory mild sport tuned suspension...


Plus the Yaris down here south of the border is actually an expensive car...
Yes my car has all of the above, and I like it. It's small,lightweight and good gas mileage for the power I'm getting and of course I can park anywhere.

Only thing now is little bolt on mods to increase performance and looks little by little, and that's where the fun is.

So if you guys keep posting I can get to work, fro now I'm actually installing temp, press and volt gauges, Just the easy stuff first.

Thanks for the posts guys, keep'm comming.

I'll post my project progress soon.....
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:32 AM   #12
joe portelli
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Hello all,

I have a toyota 2001 vitv with 95000 kms. No manual. I like to check the automatic transmission fluid level and replace the auto transmission filter. I appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:25 AM   #13
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Hi Guys...

I got a ncp42,same 1nz-fe engine with the cable throttle body and everything[oh and its automatic...]
I've change the exhaust system [larger header&down pipe,cat remove,2 resonator,larger pipe,bigger inlet&outlet s-flow muffler]
The stock reach 0-100 in 12.3[with a brake launch]
With the exhaust change,i reach 0-100 in 11.7 [with a brake launch]
After that i change to a larger throttle body[1zz-fe throttle body 60mm]with a short ram intake,the biggest change is in low and mid rpm the high rpm remands the same to be honest,i reach 0-100 in 9.9[with some one at my passenger seat weight around 80kg] but after changing the throttle body my car react faster from 0-150...after 150 theres a huge lagg and the car react slower i still manage to reach 200km/h but took a longer time than stock.
[The engine is fully stock with no tune]

Last edited by TRD SPEC; 04-10-2016 at 03:05 AM.
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:47 AM   #14
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i have intake, full exhaust except the tip, RS parts (maf, solenoid), larger injectors, 7 heat range spark plugs with E85 timing advance tuning ecu..
suspension, change to hankook tires, front and rear sway bar, dropped 1.5 with performance replacement shocks and springs..

this car is very tiring..very hard to make car go "fast" without spending a lot of money...they have bolt on JUN Cam for NA set up but expensive as sh*t...turbo set up costs a lot too..i just drive this car for hitting corners and going to supermarket..if i have set up for B16 Honda above, i will be flying...seriously..

i guess 1zz TB & pulley will be my next set up..i dont think its going to make any difference though..lol

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Old 04-10-2016, 03:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbito View Post
i have intake, full exhaust except the tip, RS parts (maf, solenoid), larger injectors, 7 heat range spark plugs with E85 timing advance tuning ecu..
suspension, change to hankook tires, front and rear sway bar, dropped 1.5 with performance replacement shocks and springs..

this car is very tiring..very hard to make car go "fast" without spending a lot of money...they have bolt on JUN Cam for NA set up but expensive as sh*t...turbo set up costs a lot too..i just drive this car for hitting corners and going to supermarket..if i have set up for B16 Honda above, i will be flying...seriously..

i guess 1zz TB & pulley will be my next set up..i dont think its going to make any difference though..lol

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Is it automatic?
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Old 04-10-2016, 04:47 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD SPEC View Post
Is it automatic?
yes. funny thing is there isnt much difference with manual...the tuning group all drive 1nz with either manual or auto...when we tuned the ecu, we use L->2->3->D gears.. -_-



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Brain: ATD E85 Timing Advance ECU
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Suspension: Hankook Tires, Performance OEM replacement Shocks & Springs F: 1.5 B: 1.4, Mu Spec brake pads, Front tower & Rear sway bars, Rays nut & lock
Electric: Volt Stablizer & Multi gauge obd2
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:29 PM   #17
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Maybe someone can answer this.
What type of gain can you get out of a 1nzfe if you only add a piggyback or standalone?
Just curious if a retune could help squeeze any type of performance benefits from it.
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Old 05-16-2016, 11:33 AM   #18
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How about reflash your ECU will it be beneficial or just a waste amount of money to spend on a 1nz engine?
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