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Old 04-08-2009, 09:47 PM   #19
LtNoogie
 
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I've got the C2 series. It's a good thing Autometer has so many lines of gauges, we've gotta be individualistic. Is yours digital like Mike's or full range electric?

Here's mine.
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:04 PM   #20
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mechanical model 5907

ES series has black faces, just hadda have all black
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:10 PM   #21
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this is the model i am getting. All Cobalts...

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Old 04-08-2009, 10:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurokoma-kun View Post
mechanical model 5907

ES series has black faces, just hadda have all black
?
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:22 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERPOOP View Post
this is the model i am getting. All Cobalts...
I almost bought Cobalt but don't remember why I chose C2 instead.
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:31 PM   #24
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Because you wanted to look like a smurf while driving at night. That's what you told me....
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:58 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LtNoogie View Post
?
thats the one Garm helped me choose it, I originally wanted one with some crazy high boost range, 7 psi would barely show on some boost gauges
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:06 AM   #26
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when I installed the catch tank I used the screw type also, got a mix of shitty stock clips and decent clamps now.

mmmm I like the blue displays on the cobalts, mine are red lighted, my tach is like the baleful burning eye of Sauron, lol!!

well I guess since this is a long weekend coming up I will finally make an effort and install my gauges, at least get all the wires pulled and so forth
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:07 AM   #27
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I also installed the Autometer dimmer. I was tired of driving around with my face lit up bright blue at night. My wideband LED display does not seem to dim very much although it is supposed to auto-dim.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:11 AM   #28
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well thing is I suck at soldering, my hands shake for one thing cuz i'm scared of being burned, plus I tend to lose patience before the iron can hot up the wire enough to wick the solder. Thank goodness for splice clips! good enough for me
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:36 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camelll View Post
I am gonna bypass the catch can and see if one of the lines is the problem. I did notice today that my vacuum line coming from the catch can going to the intake is sucking in. I know the car is in vacuum so I would expect this a little bit but the whole hose damn near sucks in. Like the hose is weak or something is plugged.
go to home depot and buy a 3/8 mip barbed fitting and maybe a 3/8s barb fitting. then go to autozone and get 2' 3/8s rubber hose and connect one hose to the catch can from the pcv valve going to the catch can then to the stock hose, the stock hose goes from 3/8s to 3/4 thats how i got rid of the sucked in hose effect. hope that helps

heres a pic of my old greddy catch can if you need reference

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Old 04-10-2009, 01:00 AM   #30
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The pcv hoses deterioate over time and collapse. I should have mentioned i had the same problem with my yaris. I took out my intake to clean the filter and then forgot to hook back up the pcv hose to the intake after the maf sensor. Was wondering why my gas milage was crappy and how come my acceleration was poor.
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Old 04-20-2009, 04:12 AM   #31
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Yah. I don't have room to put mine there because of the aFe intake. I may have to sell mine and fabricate a smaller one. I just read a thread where someone made a small one.

Thanks, Mike.

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Old 05-08-2009, 11:40 PM   #32
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what is the best spark plugs to use? denso or accent? platinum or regular?
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:51 PM   #33
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For boosted Yaris, a few of us are using NGK Iridiums, heat range 7.
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Old 05-09-2009, 12:48 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camelll View Post
Yeah I thought the plugs looked good too, I was just curious about the color, never seen it before. Yes I am running lucas octane booster to stop the pre-ignition. Those are not the stock plugs they are ngk iridium ix 7 heat range. 2 ranges colder than stock. I am pretty sure put not positive that I don't have a vacuum leak but the car runs top notch while driving and under boost. I did not have this problem until I changed the air filter and emptied the oil catch can but this is the first time this year I tried the ac. So the only things that have changed is adding the lucas octane booster, changing the cai filter and emptying the oil catch can. The only hoses that were disconnected were the one going to and one going from the catch can. Again I am almost certain I don't have a leak. I am leaning towards the octane booster, bad 02 sensor, catalytic converter or bad maf but shit if I know what the problem is. LOL

Just reading this for the first time...
pre-ignition?
are you sure, do you know what pre-ignition is and what causes it?
I think you mean detonation?

pre-ignition is when the fuel ignites on its own because of a hot spot in the combustion chamber...
its caused by an air leak, too hot of spark plug heat range, poor cooling system circuilation/cavitation or carbon build up. if you enegine is suffereing from pre-ignition it will rev uncontrolably and try to continue to run after the key is shut off... Some people call this dieseling. When an engine sufferes from pre-ignition you can shut the key off, remove the sparkplug wires/coil wires and it will still run as long as its getting fuel.

higher compression engines or forced induction engines often suffer from detonation (KNOCK) because the compression rates are too high or the timming is too far advanced creating too much heat for the lower octane fuel

FWIW the plug color look ok but stop using Lucas in you fuel and oil
Switch to a better fuel and true synthetic oil
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