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Old 03-15-2010, 07:25 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Blue Y job View Post
I put my amp in the trunk for simplicity and access to the controls. There's not really that much room under the back seats because that's where the gas tank is.
hmmm.. maybe.. i guess i should look under the rear seats closer lol ok well then maybe mount it on the back of the seats.. as long as i don't use up too much of my tiny trunk...
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Old 03-15-2010, 11:59 PM   #20
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There you go. Keep in mind you may want to fold your rear seats forward sometime. You could also go under the front seats. There's probably also room under that big dash.
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:30 PM   #21
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woot! its all set up! Sounds pretty good for what it is... Going to up load pics when i get home...
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Old 03-20-2010, 01:13 AM   #22
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The Install...

After getting my 4 gauge amp kit (it has almost everything you need, but the ties are kinda cheap), I followed the DIY, and removed the panel above the battery and ran the power cable first through the grommet on the passenger side and wire tied it too the supports. I had to remove the red positive post cover from the battery because it would not close with the amp wire hooked up. I could not see a bulge where the screwdriver was pressing through the grommet, so we pounded the screwdriver through the material and shoved the wire through the hole. While my friend pushed the wire, I cut the hole with a razor to widen it. After that, the rest was pretty easy. I tied the wire to a metal piece under the dash and the rest of the car was practically made for running the power, with a nice channel in the door sills, and plastic body panels to shove it under...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Amp Kit.jpg (51.9 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg Panel Removed.jpg (60.6 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg Power Cable.jpg (64.9 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg Power Cable 2.jpg (45.5 KB, 110 views)
File Type: jpg Gromet.jpg (35.0 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg Power Cable 3.jpg (29.9 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg Kick Panel.jpg (27.6 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg Door Sill Removed.jpg (58.1 KB, 110 views)
File Type: jpg Power Cable 4.jpg (55.9 KB, 110 views)
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Old 03-20-2010, 01:32 AM   #23
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I then ran the RCA cables, but I could not hook up the trigger wire without taking the wire harness out and soldering it, but I really didn't want to make the long RCA cable a permanent part of the wire harness so I was going to just rig the trigger to the power cable at the amp, so I could listen to the music while I went to get the parts to hook up the trigger wire After the RCA cables, and the power wire, I was almost done, but I could not figure out where the hell to attach the ground wire.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg RCA Cables.jpg (52.4 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg RCA Cables 2.jpg (30.2 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg RCA Cables 3.jpg (69.3 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg Almost done.jpg (57.7 KB, 111 views)
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Old 03-20-2010, 02:16 AM   #24
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after checking online with you guys, I figured out to attach it to a seat belt bolt, but I did not have a loop terminal big enough for it to fit. I tried to drill it out, but the brass connectors are insanely strong. I drove all over the place the next day trying to find a 4 gauge terminal big enough to fit the bolt. I finally decided to make one by soldering several loops of wire to the end of the ground wire. Seems to work ok, but the cable is too short for what I want to do. I really want to point the speaker up, and have the amp facing the back. the amp is too tall, and with the amp on top, I cant use the cover. You can see "1920 Watts" plain as day, even with the tint. I think I'm going to move the ground wire to a different bolt and/or get another wire/terminal. Despite it being so ghetto, and without it costing too much, it sounds pretty damn good. I haven't cranked it up too much, because I haven't adjusted the levels on the amp, but my mirror it hard to see out of now I think I'll go ahead and buy a single sub box for it later to save some trunk space. My only issue with that is figuring out where to mount the big ass amp if I do that. I'll try to get some crappy cell phone video later, for shits and giggles...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Soldered Ring 2.jpg (106.8 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg Grounded.jpg (30.1 KB, 110 views)
File Type: jpg Grounded 2.jpg (27.5 KB, 109 views)
File Type: jpg Finished.jpg (58.2 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg Finished 2.jpg (56.8 KB, 111 views)
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:42 PM   #25
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This morning i went by the flea market to see if i could find some things i needed for my install, i went by several of the lil audio shops looking for some 4 gauge spades, Nobody had them, or would sell me them, finally two places told me to go see the Wire Lady, i was like hmm okay where can i find this " wire lady". They told me left right up two rows down blah blah, so i went on a quest to find her. Wow when i did find her booth she had everything, Amp Kits, wire terminals, Ring terminals, what i liked is she sells wire by the foot and has the decent brands, even has the " flex " wire, and 10 gauge speaker wire which is pretty good. So i ended up with the 4 gauge spades for 99 cents a piece, which isn't bad at all.

Bro for your ground just drill straight through the bottom of your car and get yourself a screw and a nut, make sure you scrape the paint from the area you want to place the screw at. And just get you some scissors and cut that cover that goes over the batter terminal to let the wire run though it. If not you could prolly drill through it.

Ohh and did you scrape the paint from where your ground is now ? If not your lights are going to Dim like hell. Also you want as much wire as possible touching that screw, if you trimmed too much your amp may not get all the juice it needs. Not having enough wire for the current to run through is like this. Go to your gas station and purchase a Slurpee, and try to drink it using a Coffee stirrir straw. Kinda hard isn't it ? Do some online research on Electron current flow and you'll see why we ground the hell out of our engine batteries and any other electronics pushing serious Wattage. Also if you don't scrape the paint sometimes it'll send a negative signal back to the battery and make your fuse go Boom.
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Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794
Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch
Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4
(2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3

Last edited by _S7V7N_; 03-20-2010 at 12:57 PM.
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Old 03-28-2010, 05:24 AM   #26
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Well it was fun while it lasted...

Well my 10" Pyle (of shit lol) just died tonight. I wasn't blasting it or any thing, but it just stopped making noise. I pressed in on the speaker and it responded to the beat for just a second before i let go and turned it off. It never made a sound again I took the speaker out of the box (it was a bitch with that liquid nails on there) and checked to see if a wire shook loose or something, but it was all hooked up fine, still so I assume it's dead... I turned it down low and connected the amp to a 6" speaker i had lying around, and it seems to be working, so it must be the speaker which is bad. So I bought this tonight The Alpine SWR-1242D seems like a pretty good deal, with many high ratings, on sale for almost 50% of what it normally goes for, and it came with a free box and free shipping! All that for $109, so I went for it. I'm a bit worried about how to hook it up though. I think it will be ok to hook the 2 VCs up in parallel again, like I did on the old one, but I am worried about blowing the new one. I also don't know where I am going to mount that fat ass amp, since the box is a single, and now too small to mount it to it. Oh well, I guess I'll figure it our when it gets here.
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:52 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CtrlAltDefeat View Post
Well my 10" Pyle (of shit lol) just died tonight. I wasn't blasting it or any thing, but it just stopped making noise. I pressed in on the speaker and it responded to the beat for just a second before i let go and turned it off. It never made a sound again I took the speaker out of the box (it was a bitch with that liquid nails on there) and checked to see if a wire shook loose or something, but it was all hooked up fine, still so I assume it's dead... I turned it down low and connected the amp to a 6" speaker i had lying around, and it seems to be working, so it must be the speaker which is bad. So I bought this tonight The Alpine SWR-1242D seems like a pretty good deal, with many high ratings, on sale for almost 50% of what it normally goes for, and it came with a free box and free shipping! All that for $109, so I went for it. I'm a bit worried about how to hook it up though. I think it will be ok to hook the 2 VCs up in parallel again, like I did on the old one, but I am worried about blowing the new one. I also don't know where I am going to mount that fat ass amp, since the box is a single, and now too small to mount it to it. Oh well, I guess I'll figure it our when it gets here.
sounds like the voice coil got to hot, too much power. The Alpine should be a lot better.
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:56 PM   #28
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That is a killer deal with a free box and free shipping.
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:51 PM   #29
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Quote:
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sounds like the voice coil got to hot, too much power. The Alpine should be a lot better.
I hope so... I need to figure out how to adjust my amp to avoid that this time...

Quote:
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That is a killer deal with a free box and free shipping.
I know... Crutchfield rocks!
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Old 09-26-2010, 04:13 PM   #30
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oh yea... here is a pic of the system installed but I'm about to upgrade the head unit to this Kenwood... that should be here monday
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File Type: jpg system.jpg (33.6 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg system2.jpg (37.6 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg system3.jpg (61.6 KB, 56 views)
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Old 09-26-2010, 05:09 PM   #31
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Not bad at all
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Old 09-26-2010, 05:58 PM   #32
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Not bad at all
thanx. I already replaced my ghetto ground with a aftermarket grounding block. I just need to replace the factory speakers (and maybe the amp) and get my friend to help me tune it up right and I'll be all set
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:04 PM   #33
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Alpine Type-R to the rescue.

I think you need to ditch that giant KOLE amp, and get a nice compact class D monoblock to go along with your shiny new Type-R.

example:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...KAC-8104D.html

or this one:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...GM-D8500M.html

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Old 09-27-2010, 01:10 AM   #34
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This looks so interesting! (o:

Derick.
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:20 AM   #35
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Alpine Type-R to the rescue.

I think you need to ditch that giant KOLE amp, and get a nice compact class D monoblock to go along with your shiny new Type-R.

example:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...KAC-8104D.html

or this one:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...GM-D8500M.html

hmmm not bad at all... that Kenwood seems to be perfect... Will have do consider it once this fiasco is over...
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