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Old 02-12-2010, 06:59 AM   #1
Falconia
 
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DRL in Yaris from..?

Hi,

I decided to add an other thread also in here Modifications, maybe you know better. So the question is, where from Yaris have DRL (Daytime Running Light)s? I have Yaris 2001, so is all Yaris made with DRL?
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:55 AM   #2
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The electrical wiring diagrams for 2001 show that some had and some did not have DRL. So, it looks like it was on some Yaris that far back. Even with the current model year (2010) some markets have DRL and some do not.
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The electrical wiring diagrams for 2001 show that some had and some did not have DRL. So, it looks like it was on some Yaris that far back. Even with the current model year (2010) some markets have DRL and some do not.
Is it possible to verify is there DRL or not without taking the cover out under the steering wheel? Can saw it for example from lights or their type of working?
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falconia View Post
Is it possible to verify is there DRL or not without taking the cover out under the steering wheel? Can saw it for example from lights or their type of working?
Yes. If your Yaris has DRLs, as soon as you start the engine the headlights will turn on. If they do not, then your Yaris does not have the DRL module.
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:00 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Yes. If your Yaris has DRLs, as soon as you start the engine the headlights will turn on. If they do not, then your Yaris does not have the DRL module.
Okay, after starting the headlights light up after few seconds, so yes I have...

Thanks!
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:18 PM   #6
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I tried to find DRL module under the steering wheel, but did not found it. There were a few empty sockets and I thought is someone removed the module.

But, when is start the engine, headlights will turn on after one or two seconds, tricky.. Anybody knows where is could find the module and what kind the socket of the module is?
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Old 02-16-2010, 04:27 PM   #7
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ups
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Old 02-16-2010, 05:16 PM   #8
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Here's how to remove the cover:

2001 Meter Disassembly.jpg
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:29 AM   #9
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Here's how to remove the cover:

Attachment 31723
Thanks! I will try if I find the module by removing that cap.

Anyway, I get the hid-kit working with this kind of relay harness? Right?

I thought that this kind of relay kits are made for H1/H7 kits on so on that they get power directly from battery. Is that kind of relay kit really needed to pass the DRL? I don't get how that differs from original H4 kit because there power always come directly from battery..?


Last edited by Falconia; 02-17-2010 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:57 AM   #10
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In DRL mode, the headlight bulbs are driven at a lower voltage by pulsing the power to them. That is what makes the DRLs flicker. The relay kit gets past that issue by feeding the HID ballasts full battery voltage instead of the output of the DRL module.
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:10 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
In DRL mode, the headlight bulbs are driven at a lower voltage by pulsing the power to them. That is what makes the DRLs flicker. The relay kit gets past that issue by feeding the HID ballasts full battery voltage instead of the output of the DRL module.
Yeah, I knew that but in H4 kit the power comes directly from battery without any add-on relay kits?! So what is the point to relay H4 kits "again"? In h4 bixenon kits, there is control relay which gets control from cars h4 socket and the power directly from battery. I really don't know how DRL can mess this up?

And all Yaris has the H4 socket (and usually people get Bixenonkit), so there should not be any problem with DRL because power comes directly from battery.
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:24 AM   #12
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The headlight switch switches the ground side. The bulbs have power going to them and then the switch makes or breaks ground to the other side. The DRL relay pulses that ground making it look like the bulbs are being run at 1/2 voltage. The relay kit should make it where the other side of the feed is ground or no connection, not the pulsed ground.
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The headlight switch switches the ground side. The bulbs have power going to them and then the switch makes or breaks ground to the other side. The DRL relay pulses that ground making it look like the bulbs are being run at 1/2 voltage. The relay kit should make it where the other side of the feed is ground or no connection, not the pulsed ground.
So the answer is YES, I do have to order relay kit if I can't remove the DRL module.

Does that relay kit look right and working which I posted few messages before?
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Old 02-17-2010, 03:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The headlight switch switches the ground side. The bulbs have power going to them and then the switch makes or breaks ground to the other side. The DRL relay pulses that ground making it look like the bulbs are being run at 1/2 voltage. The relay kit should make it where the other side of the feed is ground or no connection, not the pulsed ground.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Falconia
I was just confused because Bixenon kits come with relay which controls the bulb for low/high beam but the kit need the additional relay kit for fooling the Daytime running light.. The relay harness gets power directly from battery but normal bixenon system do the same. Basically there is no difference by using original h4-bixenon system or relay harness. Both get the switch from car's original h4 socket. So what is the difference?

Maybe I am stupid but I don't get it... anybody help
CTScott said that DRl pulses the ground side. Yes but the control still (even with the relay) comes from car's own wires which is connected to DRL, that is why I don't get it how the relay changes the problem. Both get the control from cars own wires and so they are both connected to the DRL
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Old 02-19-2010, 06:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
On your car it is just below the top of the dash, to the left of the speedometer.

Attachment 31699
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Here's how to remove the cover:

Attachment 31723

This seems to be my monolog but, I get the fron dash off with CTScott instructions! That was easier than I expected and the DRL was right under the dash. Thanks!

I found the DRL module with number: 82810-52020
whic differs from DIY instructions (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=894). In this DIY number was 82810-52040.

I think that module I found is DRL because google search:
82810 RELAY ASSY, RUNNING LIGHT
82810‑52020 NCP1*, NLP10, SCP10..JPP..LHD..(LUNA, SOL, TRSTD, TS) 1

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_200...html?hl=85916D

So, yei! Problem solved (hope so..)
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:51 AM   #16
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Yes, you definitely need a relay. I am not familiar enough with the wiring for that generation of Yaris to be able to tell if the relay kit in your picture will work.
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Old 02-17-2010, 10:08 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Yes, you definitely need a relay. I am not familiar enough with the wiring for that generation of Yaris to be able to tell if the relay kit in your picture will work.




I was just confused because Bixenon kits come with relay which controls the bulb for low/high beam but the kit need the additional relay kit for fooling the Daytime running light.. The relay harness gets power directly from battery but normal bixenon system do the same. Basically there is no difference by using original h4-bixenon system or relay harness. Both get the switch from car's original h4 socket. So what is the difference?

Maybe I am stupid but I don't get it... anybody help

Last edited by Falconia; 02-17-2010 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:25 PM   #18
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That's correct. Your generation of Yaris had a different part number than the newer generation.

If simply disconnecting the module doesn't do the trick, then snap a picture of the connector. If the EWD that I have matches the wiring for your area, then I believe that you will need to disconnect the yellow wire (between the two greens) and leave the module in place.
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