Induction kit running issue - Toyota Yaris Forums

discomark10 · 01-08-2013, 04:25 PM

Hi guys,
I installed an iduction kit to replace the standard air box today.
It started fine, idle seemed ok, but when I took it for a test drive it was very slugish and sort of bogged down a low/med revs. Seemed to run a bit better with higher up the revs.
I ended up putting it back to standard shortly after as I needed to use it and it ran fine so the maf must be ok.

Any idea's why it ran like that?

Thanks

tooter · 01-08-2013, 09:56 PM

You could try putting your new intake back on and disconnecting your negative battery cable for about ten minutes so that your computer will forget the old stock air box operating parameters, and learn the new parameters of your intake.

Bluevitz-rs · 01-09-2013, 12:47 AM

What's the inside diamater of the pipe on the new intake? If it's any bigger than stock the MAF will read less air passing by and give less fuel making LESS power.

Kaotic Lazagna · 01-09-2013, 01:53 AM

Could be one or both of what was mentioned above.

Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Pump your brakes until it becomes stiff. Let it sit for like 10-15 minutes. Reconnect the battery terminal, and start your engine and let idle for ~15 minutes. Do NOT step on the gas or anything, just let it idle. That should help.

discomark10 · 01-09-2013, 06:39 AM

Cool ill give it a go, what does pumping the brakes do?

Bluevitz-rs · 01-09-2013, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by discomark10

Cool ill give it a go, what does pumping the brakes do?

Nothing. Because as soon as you open the door the dome light turns on. And drains any residual charge in the electrical system.

discomark10 · 01-09-2013, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

Nothing. Because as soon as you open the door the dome light turns on. And drains any residual charge in the electrical system.

Man, all the fangled technology! Give me an old Land Rover any day ;)

WeeYari · 01-09-2013, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

What's the inside diamater of the pipe on the new intake? If it's any bigger than stock the MAF will read less air passing by and give less fuel making LESS power.

^ This. You never answered the question about inside diameter. What kit are you running?

The ECU is very particular about air passing the MAF. Deviate from 2.25" inside diameter on the pipe and you'll typically run into problems.

cali yaris · 01-09-2013, 12:38 PM

Did you disconnect the battery when installing, so your ECU can relearn with your new intake?

discomark10 · 01-09-2013, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeeYari

^ This. You never answered the question about inside diameter. What kit are you running?

The ECU is very particular about air passing the MAF. Deviate from 2.25" inside diameter on the pipe and you'll typically run into problems.

ill have to check it out tomorrow

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

Did you disconnect the battery when installing, so your ECU can relearn with your new intake?

yes but only for a couple min, will be tryng it tomorrow also

Kaotic Lazagna · 01-09-2013, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by discomark10

Cool ill give it a go, what does pumping the brakes do?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

Nothing. Because as soon as you open the door the dome light turns on. And drains any residual charge in the electrical system.

Just a little extra to get any and all residual charge out. I've had better luck with pumping my brakes than not.

discomark10 · 01-09-2013, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeeYari

^ This. You never answered the question about inside diameter. What kit are you running?

The ECU is very particular about air passing the MAF. Deviate from 2.25" inside diameter on the pipe and you'll typically run into problems.

just checked, its 2.32" (59mm) rather than 2.25" (57mm) .... (25.5cm2 over 27.3cm2)
Only a tad bigger, wouldn't Imagen that small a difference will cause a problem would it?

OTA'sTOY · 01-09-2013, 05:02 PM

what brand intake did you get?

Bluevitz-rs · 01-09-2013, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by discomark10

just checked, its 2.32" (59mm) rather than 2.25" (57mm) .... (25.5cm2 over 27.3cm2)
Only a tad bigger, wouldn't Imagen that small a difference will cause a problem would it?

2734mm2 = 59mmØ
2551.75mm2 = 57mmØ

That's a 7% jump with no additional fuel.

discomark10 · 01-09-2013, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTA'sTOY

what brand intake did you get?

I fabricated it myself as they cost the equivalent of around $250 here...

I'm going to have to either fix or remake it, if resetting the ECU reset fails.
It only cost about $15 to make out of stainless, so a bit cheaper!

BEEF · 01-09-2013, 10:18 PM

leave the part of the stock input pipe with the MAF on it and put a high flow filter in place of the paper filter. The diameter of the pipe at the MAF is very sensitive (as stated above).

I feel you on the price, mine was ~$200

discomark10 · 01-10-2013, 11:08 AM

So today I had another go at sorting it out. Reset the ecu as sujested. It did run better but still no where near right.

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeeYari

The ECU is very particular about air passing the MAF. Deviate from 2.25" inside diameter on the pipe and you'll typically run into problems.

This seems to be the problem, I made a restrictor to put inside to reduce the ID of the tube and it helped allot! I still think it was down on power a lil bit.
Ive put it back to standard untill I can remake it with a smaller ID tube or of course get a premade one.

Does anybody know what size ID the aftermarket one is?

cali yaris · 01-10-2013, 12:46 PM

Was this answered?

Quote:

what brand intake did you get?

01-08-2013, 04:25 PM	#1
discomark10 Drives: 02 Yaris 1.5 T-sport Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Bucks Posts: 30	Induction kit running issue Hi guys, I installed an iduction kit to replace the standard air box today. It started fine, idle seemed ok, but when I took it for a test drive it was very slugish and sort of bogged down a low/med revs. Seemed to run a bit better with higher up the revs. I ended up putting it back to standard shortly after as I needed to use it and it ran fine so the maf must be ok. Any idea's why it ran like that? Thanks

01-09-2013, 12:38 PM	#9
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	Did you disconnect the battery when installing, so your ECU can relearn with your new intake? __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

01-09-2013, 05:02 PM	#13
OTA'sTOY DAT'S RIGHT I GOTz 2 View User's Garage Drives: '10 5dr Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Hilo, Hawaii Posts: 361	what brand intake did you get? __________________

01-09-2013, 10:18 PM	#16
BEEF View User's Garage Drives: 2008 yaris 3d Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: north carolina Posts: 732	leave the part of the stock input pipe with the MAF on it and put a high flow filter in place of the paper filter. The diameter of the pipe at the MAF is very sensitive (as stated above). I feel you on the price, mine was ~$200 __________________ Be the change you wish to see in the world -Mahatma Gandhi-

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01-08-2013, 09:56 PM	#2
tooter play every day Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,962	You could try putting your new intake back on and disconnecting your negative battery cable for about ten minutes so that your computer will forget the old stock air box operating parameters, and learn the new parameters of your intake.

01-09-2013, 12:47 AM	#3
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	What's the inside diamater of the pipe on the new intake? If it's any bigger than stock the MAF will read less air passing by and give less fuel making LESS power.

01-09-2013, 01:53 AM	#4
Kaotic Lazagna View User's Garage Drives: '14 GT86, '08 Vitz Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Central Valley, CA Posts: 9,873	Could be one or both of what was mentioned above. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Pump your brakes until it becomes stiff. Let it sit for like 10-15 minutes. Reconnect the battery terminal, and start your engine and let idle for ~15 minutes. Do NOT step on the gas or anything, just let it idle. That should help.

01-09-2013, 06:39 AM	#5
discomark10 Drives: 02 Yaris 1.5 T-sport Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Bucks Posts: 30	Cool ill give it a go, what does pumping the brakes do?