DIY Cruise Control on 07-08 Yaris (step by step) - Page 4 - Toyota Yaris Forums

CTScott · 09-13-2009, 07:45 PM

For the pin 40 connection, the ideal thing would be to use one of the actual waterproof pins for that connector. You can actually purchase the terminal, with a wire pre-crimped to it from Toyota:
82998-24250 is a single wire with the terminal and waterproof plug for connecting to the ECM.

Otherwise, I would at the very least put a dab of silicone where the wire enters the connector to keep moisture out.

flutie98 · 09-14-2009, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

For the pin 40 connection, the ideal thing would be to use one of the actual waterproof pins for that connector. You can actually purchase the terminal, with a wire pre-crimped to it from Toyota:
82998-24250 is a single wire with the terminal and waterproof plug for connecting to the ECM.

Otherwise, I would at the very least put a dab of silicone where the wire enters the connector to keep moisture out.

I just ordered this part and attempted to install it. I think it might be the wrong part #, its just a little big and will not fully seat in the connector. And let me tell you I tried to force it in there.

CTScott · 09-14-2009, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flutie98

I just ordered this part and attempted to install it. I think it might be the wrong part #, its just a little big and will not fully seat in the connector. And let me tell you I tried to force it in there.

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

flutie98 · 09-14-2009, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

Ill snap some pics when i get home from work. I tried all 4 orientations and the one that seats the most still is not fully in.

Soylentglass · 09-14-2009, 03:17 PM

I posted yesterday the results of my install on my 09 manual sedan and at first I ran into the same problem with the repair terminal not fitting. I ripped the waterproofing sleeve trying to jam it in with fine needle nose pliers.

My post is at the end of http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...=16188&page=30

On connector A21 there is a locking mechanism that you must push to one side to allow the terminal to slide in place and yes it would only go in one way, which happened to be the 4th position I tried. You then push back the white plastic slide piece and it will lock the terminal in place.

julienrl · 09-15-2009, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

where do you buy this wire using the part number?

CTScott · 09-15-2009, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by julienrl

where do you buy this wire using the part number?

You can order it through your local dealer or from TRDsparks.com

opt101 · 09-17-2009, 07:17 AM

I got my oem connector with lead on it yesterday (local dealer had a list of 14 and change, but was able to get 20% through my dealings with them through work), and thankfully saw the above posts on how to open the lock mech, worked like a charm, hopefully someone updates the how to to include this new info! Thanks again for all your help guys!

par4j · 10-05-2009, 11:34 AM

Just installed on my wife's 2007 Yaris... It worked first time... and i am not good with this type of stuff. Thanks again guys for all your hard work on this...

Saved a bundle...

Antipilor · 10-18-2009, 04:09 PM

Hmm I got all done with it and I get nothing when I push any of my switches. However, I definately have power going to the switches and my ground seems to work just fine, however I didn't have the correct resistors so I tried to pair them to get in range and I have a strong feeling I misread one or simply added wrong. I'll order the correct resistors and replace the ones I have and see if it works. On the upside me and my dad did this over the weekend and my car still works perfectly.

nickhjort · 10-19-2009, 11:47 AM

I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM.

The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want.

I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems.

It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot?

Video of it working...
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=CIMG7073.flv

CTScott · 10-19-2009, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickhjort

I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM.

The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want.

I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems.

It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot?

Video of it working...
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=CIMG7073.flv

The quick press issue is due to switch deboucning. I found that the radio shack switches require almost 100ms of debouncing. With higher quality switches the debouncing can be significantly reduced.

I can't believe that the HIDs draw it down that much. You may want to consider a heftier battery or you might run into some problems. In doing some experimentation I found that the ECM becomes very flaky if the battery voltage sags below 9 volts.

coffiend · 11-14-2009, 08:41 PM

quick question,

im not real familiar with electrical circuits and whatnot, but when adding 2 resistors in a series is it equivalent to the sums of the 2 resistors?

the reason I ask is because i could not find a resistor between 351-426, so i grabbed a 250 and a 150, assuming that together they'd make 370?

or am I just being way too simple minded?

CTScott · 11-14-2009, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coffiend

quick question,

im not real familiar with electrical circuits and whatnot, but when adding 2 resistors in a series is it equivalent to the sums of the 2 resistors?

the reason I ask is because i could not find a resistor between 351-426, so i grabbed a 250 and a 150, assuming that together they'd make 370?

or am I just being way too simple minded?

That's correct. When you connect them in series you sum the resistance (so 250+150 = 400).

coffiend · 11-14-2009, 10:05 PM

Okay thanks man, much appreciated

flybabys · 11-26-2009, 06:13 AM

thanks,than ive been waiting for this!but i'm not sure that can be use in my car at china!

CTScott · 11-26-2009, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flybabys

thanks,than ive been waiting for this!but i'm not sure that can be use in my car at china!

Unfortunately, it won't work on your Yaris. Another person from China tried it and verified that your ECM is not setup for cruise control.

tomlock · 11-28-2009, 02:57 PM

Two questions: 1) To make the A21-40 connection, are you just jamming the wire into the receptacle housing and hoping it makes connection to the corresponding pin on the ECM? Or do you know the part number for the proper crimp terminal to snap into the housing? 2) Why are you running the clutch switch to the engine bay fuse box instead of to C20-56 on the ECM?

10-05-2009, 11:34 AM	#9
par4j I've made a post! Drives: 07 Yaris Sadan Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: ATL Posts: 1	Sweet Just installed on my wife's 2007 Yaris... It worked first time... and i am not good with this type of stuff. Thanks again guys for all your hard work on this... Saved a bundle...

10-19-2009, 11:47 AM	#11
nickhjort My R1 eats my Vitz!! View User's Garage Drives: '07 Vitz Lifty, Stick Shift Join Date: May 2007 Location: Oneida, NY Posts: 131	I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM. The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want. I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems. It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot? Video of it working... http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=CIMG7073.flv __________________ My Car Rules! Last edited by nickhjort; 06-16-2010 at 12:26 AM.

11-28-2009, 02:57 PM	#18
tomlock I've made a post! Drives: 2007 yaris 3dr Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: ohio Posts: 1	Two questions: 1) To make the A21-40 connection, are you just jamming the wire into the receptacle housing and hoping it makes connection to the corresponding pin on the ECM? Or do you know the part number for the proper crimp terminal to snap into the housing? 2) Why are you running the clutch switch to the engine bay fuse box instead of to C20-56 on the ECM? Last edited by tomlock; 11-28-2009 at 03:12 PM.

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09-13-2009, 07:45 PM	#1
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,450	For the pin 40 connection, the ideal thing would be to use one of the actual waterproof pins for that connector. You can actually purchase the terminal, with a wire pre-crimped to it from Toyota: 82998-24250 is a single wire with the terminal and waterproof plug for connecting to the ECM. Otherwise, I would at the very least put a dab of silicone where the wire enters the connector to keep moisture out.

09-14-2009, 03:17 PM	#5
Soylentglass Drives: 2009 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N.E. Posts: 6	I posted yesterday the results of my install on my 09 manual sedan and at first I ran into the same problem with the repair terminal not fitting. I ripped the waterproofing sleeve trying to jam it in with fine needle nose pliers. My post is at the end of http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...=16188&page=30 On connector A21 there is a locking mechanism that you must push to one side to allow the terminal to slide in place and yes it would only go in one way, which happened to be the 4th position I tried. You then push back the white plastic slide piece and it will lock the terminal in place.

09-17-2009, 07:17 AM	#8
opt101 Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 2dr Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Connecticut Posts: 11	I got my oem connector with lead on it yesterday (local dealer had a list of 14 and change, but was able to get 20% through my dealings with them through work), and thankfully saw the above posts on how to open the lock mech, worked like a charm, hopefully someone updates the how to to include this new info! Thanks again for all your help guys!

10-18-2009, 04:09 PM	#10
Antipilor Drives: 2008 Yaris 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Green Bay, WI Posts: 2	Hmm I got all done with it and I get nothing when I push any of my switches. However, I definately have power going to the switches and my ground seems to work just fine, however I didn't have the correct resistors so I tried to pair them to get in range and I have a strong feeling I misread one or simply added wrong. I'll order the correct resistors and replace the ones I have and see if it works. On the upside me and my dad did this over the weekend and my car still works perfectly.

11-14-2009, 08:41 PM	#13
coffiend View User's Garage Drives: 08 Black LB Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 448	quick question, im not real familiar with electrical circuits and whatnot, but when adding 2 resistors in a series is it equivalent to the sums of the 2 resistors? the reason I ask is because i could not find a resistor between 351-426, so i grabbed a 250 and a 150, assuming that together they'd make 370? or am I just being way too simple minded?

11-14-2009, 10:05 PM	#15
coffiend View User's Garage Drives: 08 Black LB Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 448	Okay thanks man, much appreciated

11-26-2009, 06:13 AM	#16
flybabys I've made a post! Drives: My First Car,I like it! Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: china Posts: 1	thanks,than ive been waiting for this!but i'm not sure that can be use in my car at china!