Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[derickveliz2]

At why?

Are you still in the cape?

If so,... I go to Dartmouth MA, once a week, that's not far away from the cape! I'll be more than happy to let you try any of my subwoofers.


D.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

Nice SQ sub - works well in 14-15 liters which is a pretty small enclosure
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...xls-subwoofer/

That peerless works in almost the same enclosure of one of my Kicker Solo-baric 10" in a sealed box of 0.66 cf But you need a lot of power to make them come alive!









There is an Alpine SWR-843D Type-R 8" Subwoofer with a big reputation in the DIYMA that looks very promising in a small box, from $100 to $150 it's not bad either.



TOO MANY OPTIONS!!!!

D.

[sqcomp]

D,

Funny thing...I was doing all of what you were asking me to do just last night. I was trying to figure out why exactly my image was moving out to the pillars given lower frequency.

I solved the issue (and completely changed my TA, crossover slopes, and levels) in the process.

Going back to your question, the mids are able to keep the center image BUT...given my location of the mids I like my higher freqs coming from speakers that are unblocked by legs. As we know, blocking the higher frequencies tends to take the sparkle and some detail out of the signal.

As for subwoofers, I won't even get into it with Tolm. Painting subwoofers with such a broad brush isn't the right thing to do. I have my experience and it's a lot different than his sweeping generalizations.

[why?]

First off, thank you everyone for the replies.

Originally Posted by _S7V7N_

If you don't mind me asking what type of headunit and or front speakers are you currently running ?

alpine something or other i bought when i bought the sub amp and had them install it all. I think it was around $400, and it came with an ipod adapter free, which was nice. The shop ran 8 gauge wire and the h/u had a specific slot for the sub. The amp was dirt cheap 150 watt amp, i don't even know the maker, the sub was a 10" JL audio sub that came from my father's system which he bought new in the early 90's.

The other speakers are stock.

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

While you sure can find quality 8 inch subs.. generally a decent 10 inch driver is still a better investment in terms of price/sq/volume of the enclosure/spl.. It is not a problem to find a decent 10 inch sub which only needs .5 ft3

In case of most 8 inch drivers you would need a pair or a vented box which will not be smaller than 0.5ft3

Nice SQ sub - works well in 14-15 liters which is a pretty small enclosure
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...xls-subwoofer/

The problem wasn't the size, it was the output. 150 gave me a headache after half an hour listening, which is so annoying. So basically i am looking for something smaller that still brings out the lows yet doesn't pound it at you full time. The one you linked to looks interesting and def inexpensive, but I don't see a simple output, or if it is there, i missed it.

Found it, 150 watts. That is the problem, for me it is too much for the Yaris, which is incredibly anoying.

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

At why?

Are you still in the cape?

If so,... I go to Dartmouth MA, once a week, that's not far away from the cape! I'll be more than happy to let you try any of my subwoofers.


D.

I still am, that would be cool, but I know your subs are normal sized. Even when I turned down the sub through the h/u, and the gain on the amp it still gave me a headache. So annoying. I had a 6 speaker system on my computer with an 8" sub that put out a couple hundred watts and it never gave me an issue, so I am guessing it is the small size of the Yaris interior that is the problem for me. I know just enough audio to know i you run a sub at too low a gain you can break it, so I would be looking for something that could run fine on super low watts, maybe only 50 or so. Do they even make anything like that anymore? To be honest it is the reason I haven't even bothered to think about upgrading the speakers, if i spend the money to get a good set and then can't ever listen it would frustrate me to no end.

[_S7V7N_]

Why? Derick had given me dibs on some Hifonics 6.5's if he still has them and if it's okay with him work something out and give them a try. I will end up going a totally different route and it may be just what you're looking for. You could probably even put them in a small enclosure and get a decent sound out of them.

Get a bit of input from D and Sq and see what they think.

And man you cannot kill a speaker by not givin it enough power, if that was the case anytime we turned down our stereo we'd be putting our speakers at risk of "blowing" . Distortion is what kills speakers, what usually happens is beginners tend to think " the amp says 100000 gigawatts" so imma crank it and get the full potential out of it". Well what usually happens is they clip the heck out of the signal and blow the sub.

[sqcomp]

Actually...take a look a amplifier clipping and some causes of...

At this point I'm using a single 8" woofer off that S2b amp. I'm definately NOT under powering it. :)

I'll probably be moving down to a single 6.5" with two passive radiators as a sub stage. I LOVE messing with passives if nothing else for the space savings...that and the cool factor.

[_S7V7N_]

Is it a Digital Designs 8 ? Or HAT ? I flirted with the idea or ordering 2 Skar 8s in a ported box and rock em. I've heard 8's in a ported enclosure can get nassssssy.

Sq you ever messed with Cadence amps ?

[sqcomp]

I have a DD1508 in there right now. It is more than PLENTY as far as output. Actually I have the subsonic filter on the amp going, plus the 20, 25, and 31.5 Hz on the deck is down 12 dB PLUS the level for the subwoofer is down 10 dB.

I do have it wired at 2 Ohms though.

I haven't messed with Cadence amplifiers at this point. Take a look at these subs:

http://jmhaudioconcepts.com/dadsubwoofers

It's also a good way to support the local (to you) economy. James Halter is the man for these.

[_S7V7N_]

If he can do a ported subwoofer box and subs for a good price i'd try anything once.

Heh I cranked up my system over the weekend and did a quick cruise through town, now I hear "ground pounders" cruising by showing off that Distortion !!

Ps if an amp is chrome, has flames and a neon light it has to be pushing at least 5k RMS ! Right ?

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by why?

I still am, that would be cool, but I know your subs are normal sized.

I can make you change your mind and way of thinking, just by listening at the I6SW (a 6.5" woofer in a ported box) will blow your mind! not your ears. This little puppy is amazing.

We can also try...

the IDq12 in a sealed box
the 10" Bachooka
and 10" kickers

all good if installed properly, for example if I put the IDq12 in the trunk facing towards the back right corner, sounds amazing, but put in in the rear seat facing forward and it a shame, embarrassed of the woofer when playing in the rear seat facing forward

I'll replay to other comments later today, some thing going on right now at work (o:

D.

[why?]

ooh, didn't realize the 16sw was a 6.5. That could work for me. And a pretty darn good price too.

I had the JL 10 in a ported box in the back of the hatch with a full interior. Even with the windows open there was too much sound pressure.

I bet you could even kick my butt so I installed it myself. I used to go to school in N Dartmouth, let me know.

The lunatic in me is curious to know if you know how much it weighs. Rofl, 7 lbs.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

3.15 khz 1st order for tweeters seems crazily low.. there is also a good chance that you will burn them..

Sqcomp's tweeters have a Frequency Range = Fs (580 Hz) – 40,000 Hz, +/- 3 dB

they won't burn...


D.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

D,
Going back to your question, the mids are able to keep the center image BUT...given my location of the mids I like my higher freqs coming from speakers that are unblocked by legs. As we know, blocking the higher frequencies tends to take the sparkle and some detail out of the signal.

I had the impression from SB that as long as there is a clear path between your ears and the speakers should work fine.

I like the sparkles from the tweeters above 10kHz up in the a-pillars but I've seen many people go tweeter less. I did try once and it was pretty cool but even pushing the HL-70's I couldn't get them to play high enough.

D.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

my point is different anyways - just curious why such a low x-over point?

I understand,

some one told me once...

"do what ever it takes so it sounds right"

and like I wrote once... everybody hears different.


My observation when I had my tweeters crossing low, is that it was harder to adjust center image due to reflexions from the windshield and matching with center image on Mids, going back to point source (with Mids) made my tuning easier, sqcomp knows what he is doing for sure and with a purpose. Some times I like the easy way.

But that's just me.

D.

[packetrace]

I have a question...with active filter...and 75W of output on the L1V2...do you need protection ?...75W seems a lot for those little tweeter :S

[_S7V7N_]

Tolmach I hope you're getting more info for that reply you just gave if not it was totally pointless. The guy can't just go and start cranking on dials and everything magically sound good. If I'm right he has 5V preouts we will need to see the input sensitivity on the amp he gets if it's 5V at the min position you have to be very careful with gain. We need a lot more info before we can give advice.

Packet please don't mess with any of your equipment until you fully understand how you are going to tune the amps and set you crossover points, eq's, we will get you a very detailed how to on setting your amp gain.

When that time comes we'll need detailed information on your equipment.

[sqcomp]

Clarification would probably read like this:

Adjusting the gain structure at the source and at the amplifier to not give off a clipped signal from the signal chain as well as a responsible crossover point for the tweeter is the way to go.

Think about it this way, Scott Buwalda is using a JL HD750/1 for each L3SE. He's not blowing speakers. I'm working with 240 Watts (@ 12V) on my L4SEs. I'm doing just fine. Why? Refer to the clarified sentence.

[sqcomp]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

I had the impression from SB that as long as there is a clear path between your ears and the speakers should work fine.

I like the sparkles from the tweeters above 10kHz up in the a-pillars but I've seen many people go tweeter less. I did try once and it was pretty cool but even pushing the HL-70's I couldn't get them to play high enough.

D.

I hear that. I'm a freak when it comes to my upper midrange though. Still, you're on to something. In our instance we have the mids tucked in the kick area. That's to necessarily a clear path to the ears. This is why I'm playing around with location and aiming some more...and why you guys haven't seen me complete my front stage. Also recall how Scott's G35 had the L3SEs in the sail panels. THAT is a clear line to the ears.

I'm actually thinking about shimming my driver's side tweeter to aim to the left ear...just for $hits and giggles. I want to hear what happens with the center image. I've also set up some temporary baffles for the L4SEs just to play around with more aiming that way as well.

This is one heck of an experiment between Derick and myself. Between us both, we have some serious R&D time with the front stage acoustics in the Yaris sedan.