"Parmas" Motor

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Scubaru Steve

mine is 4-5 inches from my turbo in my wrx, its worked for 2 years, i believe i need a new sensor now.

as for the sensor reading when the car is off that is normal. the exhaust the piping is that afr, if you leave it on it should slowly slowly dissipate.
free air calibration requires you to remove the sensor from the down pipe in fresh air.

can always try replacing the sensor, i believe most use the 5 or 7 wire bosch. can get them at a decent price mostly.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I tried the free air calibration and didn't change at all. Contacted Haltech directly and he needed a log file of the AFR reading vs Sensor voltage. After he send a reply that from the log it seems that the sensor needs replacement!

I hope the next one will at least be good for one year and not 2 months!

In the meantime I am trying to solve the last issues and installations which are:

- Oil leak from the turbo compressor discharge area
- Need new oil gauges as I have issues with them
- Installation of the NST torque damper
- Installation of the NST crank pulley
- And finally off to the dyno and hope will be ok for long time!

The main thing that is making me nervous is the oil leak from the turbo to the discharge/boost piping. I was thinking that the turbo seals were gone but I went to a Garret distrubtor and checked shaft play and seems fine. He said that for turbos it is normal to have a slight oil leak from the discharge area but I am not sure about it after I read this http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...timization.pdf

11 Point Checklist for Turbo Best Performance and Efficiency.

1. Application Information – target horsepower, intended use of vehicle, etc.

- Street / Drag racing. Target Hp 300Hp

2. Air filter sizing - determine size for application needs

- Air filter piping is the same size of the inlet compressor housing

3. Oil Supply - restrictor for ball-bearing turbo

- Ball bearing turbos use 1mm restrictor ( which I have it installed recently )

4. Oil Drain – proper size and routing

- The Drain size seems enough visually but I am not sure how much is the inner diameter. Although I have a suspect in this case.... Since the turbo is behind I can only touch and feel the area and cannot see it with the engine on the car. I am sure I felt a short 90 degree angle fitting exactly after the turbo fitting and it could be there is a bottle neck there. I am trying to re-route the drain to a straight line as possible

5. Water Lines - set up for greatest thermal siphon effect

- Siphone effect means water IN must be connected to lower level than Water Out if (I read well the document in the link). I am using the water lines that were connected to the Idle control motor but I didn't know which is IN or OUT ?

6. Charge Tubing – determine diameter for application needs

- Charge Tubing is 2" which is the same size of the charge outlet of the turbo. I don't see an issue about that.

7. Charge-Air-Cooler - determine core size for application needs, design
manifolds for optimal flow, mount for durability

- Intercooler is a little big but I prefer to have some lag than having high intake temps. Lag should be gone after I increase more boost.

8. BOV – VTA for MAP engines and by-pass for MAF engines

- HKS SSQV BOV seems fine for me

9. Wastegate – connect signal line to compressor outlet, smooth transition to
external wastegate

- Using internal wastegate, no issues with that

10. System Testing – pressurize system to check for leakage, periodically check
clamp tightness and the condition of couplers

- Here is the problem

11. System Monitoring – proper gauges/sensors to monitor engine for optimal
performance and component durability

- A turbo speed gauge. Is it really needed?