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Old 03-14-2018, 08:40 PM   #8
IllusionX
It's the illusion you see
 
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
Quote:
Originally Posted by David C View Post
The DRL relay is simply a triac in serie of a parallel ground of the low beam that takes about 3.5v off the line. Since I have LED's everywhere on the low and high, no point in running them at a lesser voltage. Much easier to just disconnect the relay and wire in the parking lights or any other light from an ignition circuit, so you still get DRL whenever the key is on run even without the engine running, but you don't necessarily get stuck with headlight power when you want to drive around quietly (like drive in theaters or outdoor exhibits). And it's quite a bitch to wire anything to that DRL harness due to its location and how short the harness is. In my case Im happy with the way it is after giving it much thoughts. However I picked up high amp diodes to have a parallel ground for the LED light bars and the foglights on a switch on the dashboard, so I can turn them on independently of the high/low beams too.
Huh? Last time I measure the voltage out of the DRL at the H4 harness, I was getting 12v.

I was like, fine, connect the blue wire to the orange wire of the fogs, then fog relay started flicker. A small cap solved the issue.

I believe you also lose the parking brake light on the dash when you remove the module.
Oh yeah, I can also control my fogs independently from the headlights as long as the DRL works. :)

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