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Old 11-19-2008, 07:24 PM   #1
stran
 
Drives: '07 Yaris 3D HB Auto
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cal
Posts: 44
I got it!

My first DIY post.

Total Time:
7 mins (if you know what you're doing)
20 mins (if first time opening the dash)
2 hours (if you're have two left hands or missing your opposable thumbs)
Tools:
Small flathead screwdriver to disconnect wire harness and push in the little clips that holds the plastic pieces together. (But not required. I could have done it with my keys or just my fingers.)
Follow instructions for changing the LED to access the back of the vent dial. Everything comes apart really easy. On the back of the circuit board (the one with the A/C button), there is a momentary switch (momentary means it requires continuous pressure to be closed) with a little metal arm. I know this description is vague, and I'm sorry I don't have pictures, but there's nothing else on the back and once you're there, it'll be obvious. Bend the metal arm a few times and it breaks right off. Presto! No more annoying A/C with defrost. Reassemble.

How it works: the back plastic piece has a ridge that engages when the vent knob is in the defroster mode. The ridge presses on the metal arm to trigger the momentary switch. No metal arm means the ridge can't trigger the A/C switch.

For the belt and suspender people to check you have the right switch (which is what I did), you can turn on the car and press the switch and see if the A/C turns on. It's easiest to tell when the car is fully warmed up since the difference in idle speed between A/C off and A/C on is very noticeable. I also had a scangauge to check fuel flow, but you can open the hood and check the condenser fan.

Tips:
  • Leave the vent dial knob all the way to one side (like face vent) so when you reassemble, you don't have to worry about aligning the indicator.
  • There's a little bit of grease on the knob to lubricate the gears. Having some paper towels is handy.

Man, this mod made my week. I've been pissed at my defroster for so long. Though, the knob has a few sticky points. I didn't pay enough attention before to know if I made it stickier or it has always been this way. I can't think of anything I did that would affect the smoothness of the knob.
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:13 PM   #2
CTScott
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
Quote:
Originally Posted by stran View Post
My first DIY post.

Total Time:
7 mins (if you know what you're doing)
20 mins (if first time opening the dash)
2 hours (if you're have two left hands or missing your opposable thumbs)
Tools:
Small flathead screwdriver to disconnect wire harness and push in the little clips that holds the plastic pieces together. (But not required. I could have done it with my keys or just my fingers.)
Follow instructions for changing the LED to access the back of the vent dial. Everything comes apart really easy. On the back of the circuit board (the one with the A/C button), there is a momentary switch (momentary means it requires continuous pressure to be closed) with a little metal arm. I know this description is vague, and I'm sorry I don't have pictures, but there's nothing else on the back and once you're there, it'll be obvious. Bend the metal arm a few times and it breaks right off. Presto! No more annoying A/C with defrost. Reassemble.

How it works: the back plastic piece has a ridge that engages when the vent knob is in the defroster mode. The ridge presses on the metal arm to trigger the momentary switch. No metal arm means the ridge can't trigger the A/C switch.

For the belt and suspender people to check you have the right switch (which is what I did), you can turn on the car and press the switch and see if the A/C turns on. It's easiest to tell when the car is fully warmed up since the difference in idle speed between A/C off and A/C on is very noticeable. I also had a scangauge to check fuel flow, but you can open the hood and check the condenser fan.

Tips:
  • Leave the vent dial knob all the way to one side (like face vent) so when you reassemble, you don't have to worry about aligning the indicator.
  • There's a little bit of grease on the knob to lubricate the gears. Having some paper towels is handy.

Man, this mod made my week. I've been pissed at my defroster for so long. Though, the knob has a few sticky points. I didn't pay enough attention before to know if I made it stickier or it has always been this way. I can't think of anything I did that would affect the smoothness of the knob.

Excellent!!!
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:47 PM   #3
auxmike
 
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Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:49 PM   #4
stran
 
Drives: '07 Yaris 3D HB Auto
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cal
Posts: 44
sorry dude. i don't have a digi cam. it'll be obvious once you get there.
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Old 01-09-2009, 01:50 PM   #5
billk
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Earth
Posts: 13
well my solution for the A/C not running when using the defroster took me 1 sec to fix. In fact It was all frosted over this morning and my defroster cleared the window with no A/c .
All you have to do is put the defrost switch half-way between foot and Defrost. The A/C will not come on. This causes the air to blow on the feet, side windows, and front windshield. If you don't believe me, try it, then turn the knob to the right to the defrost, and listen to the A/C come on.
Now the complicated part. If it does fog up, push the A/C button, or turn the dial to defrost...
I searched for this solution, did not see it, so if it is already done, sorry
b K
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