change oil

[TheSilkySmooth]

Use a real synthetic and change at 7000 miles interval you'll be good to go. Only Redline and Amsoil and are recoginisable USA made synthetics, All the others: Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum and Castrol Syntec are "FAKE" synthetics made from mineral oils using a process know as severe hydrocracking. I am about to try some Motul BMW specific formula LL01 spec 5W-30, some guys here run the MOTUL 300V Chronos racing formula. But Amsoil and Redline are prob just a good if not better. Check into it.

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

Use a real synthetic and change at 7000 miles interval you'll be good to go. Only Redline and Amsoil and are recoginisable USA made synthetics, All the others: Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum and Castrol Syntec are "FAKE" synthetics made from mineral oils using a process know as severe hydrocracking. I am about to try some Motul BMW specific formula LL01 spec 5W-30, some guys here run the MOTUL 300V Chronos racing formula. But Amsoil and Redline are prob just a good if not better. Check into it.

Some of those "real" oils don't have the API seal on the bottle. They claim to *exceed* API approval with superior additives, but since it doesn't actually have the API seal on the label I was just wondering if it'd cause problems with the service department. That's why I went from Amsoil HP to the fake Pennzoil Platinum ...both listed ACEA ratings at A5/B5

And when I was checking on some Euro oils I noticed a lot of them were SL rated. That scared me also.

[roxy1]

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

Use a real synthetic and change at 7000 miles interval you'll be good to go..

or use a good conventional oil every 5k and you'll be good to go. i.e. your car will rust into an unrecognizable hunk of metal before your engine need replaced.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Originally Posted by roxy1

or use a good conventional oil every 5k and you'll be good to go. i.e. your car will rust into an unrecognizable hunk of metal before your engine need replaced.

I tried that, doesnt work for me with these new oils. Our 05 Rav4 only lasted 67K with genuine toyota motor oil OR Mobil clean 5000 and toyota filters exclusively. Cams shot, piston skirts collapsed. Previous Suzuki Aerio, 45K and all done, burning 1qt /900mi; previous mitsubishi 3.0L V6, 55K and all done, piston slap, low power, burning oil. Alll using best factory filters and premium mineral oil.
Thats why I changed my tune. And my Oil. My yaris was going down the tubes and the Motul and wix filter saved it.

[roxy1]

Originally Posted by TheSilkySmooth

I tried that, doesnt work for me with these new oils. Our 05 Rav4 only lasted 67K with genuine toyota motor oil OR Mobil clean 5000 and toyota filters exclusively. Cams shot, piston skirts collapsed. Previous Suzuki Aerio, 45K and all done, burning 1qt /900mi; previous mitsubishi 3.0L V6, 55K and all done, piston slap, low power, burning oil. Alll using best factory filters and premium mineral oil.
Thats why I changed my tune. And my Oil. My yaris was going down the tubes and the Motul and wix filter saved it.

that rav 4 was a lemon, for sure. the other two, well, neither is famous for lasting very long. ive heard too many stories of suzukis and mitsus being done at 50k. i dont think synthetic oil would have saved any of them. its just anecdotal evidence, anyway. i could give anecdotal evidence about my 89 civic, 90 camry, and 98 corolla all going 250,000+ miles with conventional oil changes every 5k.