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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,238
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I do believe in the thread about the rear pivot point, the general consenus is that by shifting the rear pivot point to the higher slot, on a lowered yaris, that it helped put the rear geometry back closer to "stock" geometry levels. Helping correct the toe and such instead of being off a bit. Atleast that's how I understood it :)
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: peArL yAvItZ!! Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: *tIny dOts iN AsiA*
Posts: 156
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Quote:
![]() I will like to highlight on this "higher pivot point" suspension mod. To GAIN the best benefit of the upper pivot point, we will need to have shorter and stiffer springs for the rear suspension in order to enjoy the full benefit of "stock" geometry levels without causing the rear springs being compress "un-balance". I really don't feel comfortable seeing my rear Tanabe NF springs being compressed till most of my coils are touching each other and the springs are not standling vertically (|) instead they are being compress till like a "(" from the side view if we look carefully on inside of our rear wheel. Also, i move back to the lower stock pivot points to "reduce" the springs load effect so i could gain back some comfort.
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1NZ-FE Yaris with JDM RS front & rear bumper | JDM Vitz RS taillamp | JDM Vitz window visors | JDM Vitz Netz logos | JDM leather steering wheel & shift knob | 4k HID | K&N panel filter | Fujitsubo Wagolis exhaust | NST 10% crank pully | KYB Excel-G shocks | NF210 Springs | Cusco 4 points lower arm bar & Type OS top struct bar | RZCrew sub-frame collars | Ultra Racing 19mm rear sway bar & rear lower & center braces | PG Rear 13mm hub spacers | Exzess 2-pot calipers with 282mm rotors | Runstop Rear Disc | SSR Semi-Forge Type F 15" rims | Michelin Pilot Sport 3 195/55/15 tyres |
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