How to hot wire the Yaris

[Nebarnix]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Since your car doesn't have the engine immobilizer you could hot-wire it. You would have to remove the ignition switch assembly to unlock the steering column.

If you look at my DIY wiring guide for remote start, everything you need is there. You basically would have to jump yellow to pink, white and green to run and yellow to black momentarily to start.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...y+remote+start

Not really interesting in hotwiring so much as DIY remote start. Except I don't plan on buying a module, I'm going to build it from scratch and use my EZ430 Chronos RF wrist watch to send packets to the radio which will start the car and lock / unlock the doors and activate an APRS beacon (all sorts of fun!).

In your guide you do not talk about which wires actually carry what information (voltages etc). Can you list more specifics? Is there a single 12V line that gets jumpered to the various other wires which then trigger relays? If so, then this hotwire procedure has me baffled.

Thanks and this is going to be a fun project, just added cruise control to my '07 liftback last month and I've only had it for a month and a half. Also, I do NOT have an immobilizer so no big deal there. I DO have a manual transmission but that's easy enough to also jumper the clutch switch while remote starting (I don't really want to just bypass it out like others are suggesting)

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Nebarnix

Not really interesting in hotwiring so much as DIY remote start. Except I don't plan on buying a module, I'm going to build it from scratch and use my EZ430 Chronos RF wrist watch to send packets to the radio which will start the car and lock / unlock the doors and activate an APRS beacon (all sorts of fun!).

In your guide you do not talk about which wires actually carry what information (voltages etc). Can you list more specifics? Is there a single 12V line that gets jumpered to the various other wires which then trigger relays? If so, then this hotwire procedure has me baffled.

Thanks and this is going to be a fun project, just added cruise control to my '07 liftback last month and I've only had it for a month and a half. Also, I do NOT have an immobilizer so no big deal there. I DO have a manual transmission but that's easy enough to also jumper the clutch switch while remote starting (I don't really want to just bypass it out like others are suggesting)

Sounds like a fun project. I have been seriously fighting the urge to buy one of those TI watches, as I already have too many projects in the works.

To start the car, The gray wire in pin 5 of the keyswitch connector (which is the +12V via the AM2 fuse) has to get jumped to the Ignition and Ignition 2 wires and then to the starter wire.

[Nebarnix]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Sounds like a fun project. I have been seriously fighting the urge to buy one of those TI watches, as I already have too many projects in the works.

To start the car, The gray wire in pin 5 of the keyswitch connector (which is the +12V via the AM2 fuse) has to get jumped to the Ignition and Ignition 2 wires and then to the starter wire.

Ok, that's straight forward enough. In order to keep the ACC (mostly A/C!) on I am assuming that the 12V needs to stay connected to the ignition 1 and 2 wires? Or is that what the ACC wire is for (is it even possible to start the car without accessory power on?) Thanks for your help!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Nebarnix

Ok, that's straight forward enough. In order to keep the ACC (mostly A/C!) on I am assuming that the 12V needs to stay connected to the ignition 1 and 2 wires? Or is that what the ACC wire is for (is it even possible to start the car without accessory power on?) Thanks for your help!

Yes, IG1 and IG2 stay at +12 during cranking.

Acc is a separate wire. Acc should be off during cranking (the Yaris has an ACC cut circuit that does that while it is cranking).

[Nebarnix]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Yes, IG1 and IG2 stay at +12 during cranking.

Acc is a separate wire. Acc should be off during cranking (the Yaris has an ACC cut circuit that does that while it is cranking).

Thanks!

That sure is a curious way to rig things up with three wires. Security to make it more difficult to hotwire? Hopefully the starter current isn't passing through those wires. I'd like to use these 30A power transistors I have laying around for the control.

You'll have to excuse me, I'm not much of a car person so some of these things which might be tribal knowledge escape me :)

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Nebarnix

Thanks!

That sure is a curious way to rig things up with three wires. Security to make it more difficult to hotwire? Hopefully the starter current isn't passing through those wires. I'd like to use these 30A power transistors I have laying around for the control.

You'll have to excuse me, I'm not much of a car person so some of these things which might be tribal knowledge escape me :)

Everything is low current at the switch. The starter, ignition and accessory wires all switch power to the coil of relays.

[Nebarnix]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Everything is low current at the switch. The starter, ignition and accessory wires all switch power to the coil of relays.

Thanks this is great. Interesting question though. How to sense when the key is turned on so that the lines can be dropped -- otherwise, you can't turn off the car because the remote start system is keeping them high!

It might be possible to interface with the speed sensor, break sensor, or cruise control clutch switch. If anyone can think of an easier way (maybe what the commercial units are using) it would be helpful!