Low beams & High beams on together?

[CTScott]

You will likely melt the connector and possibly the headlight assembly if you do that for long. It's just a case of a switch that doesn't have a "break before make" mechanism, so you have that small spot where both contacts are powered.

[Ot_tO]

If you have a headlight with a H4 bulb:
low beam - 55 W
high beam - 60 W

If you have the low beam on and you pull the stalk, you have also high beam on. This is only for a short time usage.

If you have the low beam on and you push the stalk, you have low beam off and high beam on. This is for long time usage.

If you count both together you would have 115 W in this headlight, too much for a long time.


You could install retrofit headlights. With one bulb for low beam and one bulb for high beam.
Then you have the low beam on if high beam on (push and pull the stalk).
(Oh, no, you have the 2009-2011 Yaris like I, then not this way.
Or, you could install the 2006-2008 front bumper, then the retrofit headlight would fit.)

Or, you could install additional high beam light on the bumper.
They would switch on additional with your high beam.
(I think about to do this way, because my Yaris can't get retrofit headlights, because no manufacturer produce them for 2009-2011 years. )

Or, you could install a HID lens kit in the original headlights.
Maybe this high beam (maybe also low beam) is brighter than normal H4...
This could only the members tell which installed it.

[DeeBee]

Originally Posted by Ot_tO

You could install retrofit headlights. With one bulb for low beam and one bulb for high beam.
Then you have the low beam on if high beam on (push and pull the stalk).

Hi Ot_tO,

I am interested in this set up for my lights.

Would you be kind enough to share what I would need to duo for wiring to get this result?

I do have a wiring harness running the headlights, separate low beam and high beam but the low beam cuts off when the high beam is selected.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

[spiceyhotwings]

Originally Posted by CTScott

You will likely melt the connector and possibly the headlight assembly if you do that for long. It's just a case of a switch that doesn't have a "break before make" mechanism, so you have that small spot where both contacts are powered.

I had my highs on for a long while and I smelt burning rubber and now my high beams and high beam indicator on the dash doesn't light up.
I think I fried something?
Is it an easy fix or should I just add some
bright driving lights?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by spiceyhotwings

I had my highs on for a long while and I smelt burning rubber and now my high beams and high beam indicator on the dash doesn't light up.
I think I fried something?
Is it an easy fix or should I just add some
bright driving lights?

The indicator is fed directly off the bulb circuit, so it makes sense that both do not work. The most likely point of fryulation is the bulb connector. start with checking that.

[spiceyhotwings]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The indicator is fed directly off the bulb circuit, so it makes sense that both do not work. The most likely point of fryulation is the bulb connector. start with checking that.

So, they do look fried..the left side connector is more brown than the right side connector.
How do I replace one or both connectors?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by spiceyhotwings

So, they do look fried..the left side connector is more brown than the right side connector.
How do I replace one or both connectors?

You can buy them from most auto parts stores. Some even stock ceramic ones, which are more heat tolerant. Typically they come with about 6" of wire, so you cut and splice them into the existing harness.

[nookandcrannycar]

I agree with Schroomster (post #5), but I still can't help but chuckle just a bit pondering the thought of 'dark mountain roads' (the OP in PA) in Florida, where the highest point would be considered 'a hill' in many states .

[Yaristeve]

Originally Posted by CTScott

fryulation