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Old 11-22-2015, 01:17 PM   #1
JimKellyfan
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar View Post
There is a lot of fail happening here.

What kind of event are you doing that has you going from 180 km/h to zero repeatedly?

What kind of crap pads are you using?

Nobody is working Yaris brakes harder than we are, and we have had zero issues with the OE rotors and calipers.
I beg to differ, you do not know how we all drive, as a group or individually. I did the Richard Petty driving experience at Charlotte and Bristol, and I am more of a short track guy (did better at Bristol), I definitely have been, as Mark Martin described himself, "on the edge of out of control".
I was and still think it odd/crazy/stupid/but fun that at times I drive my personal cars harder than those race cars on a track.
So, understood on your points and thanks.
More specific on my warp is only when I am spirited driving it starts to after repeated use, but not everyday driving, it stays OK, but, I just have borderline run out. Too, looking closely, I do not need to even change my pads, but will soon, wife's Camry needs a tune up, and whatnot first on list.
But, you definitely cannot say you ride harder than any one of us, as you do not know how we drive.
That said, I do agree with you stock Yota set up is great, we just want greater, and spend as little as possible to do so.
To have the Lexus handling type car while spending just a bit more than a Yaris. I love pissing the Lexus owners off when I crack into a corner at a much higher rate of speed than they can and it sticks like glue. (Just need a higher rate of spring and I can take a 90 degree turn at 50 mph with out front tire rub as it currently would do if I did, as I have done twice)
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:46 PM   #2
Jason@SportsCar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimKellyfan View Post
I beg to differ, you do not know how we all drive, as a group or individually. I did the Richard Petty driving experience at Charlotte and Bristol, and I am more of a short track guy (did better at Bristol), I definitely have been, as Mark Martin described himself, "on the edge of out of control".
I was and still think it odd/crazy/stupid/but fun that at times I drive my personal cars harder than those race cars on a track.
So, understood on your points and thanks.
More specific on my warp is only when I am spirited driving it starts to after repeated use, but not everyday driving, it stays OK, but, I just have borderline run out. Too, looking closely, I do not need to even change my pads, but will soon, wife's Camry needs a tune up, and whatnot first on list.
But, you definitely cannot say you ride harder than any one of us, as you do not know how we drive.
That said, I do agree with you stock Yota set up is great, we just want greater, and spend as little as possible to do so.
To have the Lexus handling type car while spending just a bit more than a Yaris. I love pissing the Lexus owners off when I crack into a corner at a much higher rate of speed than they can and it sticks like glue. (Just need a higher rate of spring and I can take a 90 degree turn at 50 mph with out front tire rub as it currently would do if I did, as I have done twice)

A Richard Petty driving experience, and something that sounds like street racing. You are so overqualified. The fail in this thread continues.
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:35 PM   #3
JimKellyfan
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar View Post
A Richard Petty driving experience, and something that sounds like street racing. You are so overqualified. The fail in this thread continues.
I mentioned the driving experience only to mock myself for how hard I am on the car sometimes, but also to enlighten you and the false statement you had, knowing you drove the hardest of them all, and not really knowing that fer sher



Actually, I started this thread, as there really was no real stickie or good info on other options or any options for that matter and wanted to help myself and others, as to what is available, didn't really start the thread for a bashing by the almighty racing clown, then get bashed again.

I have more than 480 certificates (in multiple manufacturing brands) in automotive, electrical and tires and do not claim to be the know it all, actually try and help, and be helped. I have been working on cars since 83 helpin pa, 84 in school, then on personal or girlfriends cars until 89 then part time until 97 then full time since then, but, dude, I do not claim to be all knowing.
I came here looking for tips and tricks, saving me time and helping others when I can, as much as I can.

There are some good techs on here that we want their advice, what they did on their brakes and what they recommend. I merely also stated what I was doing as well.
Feedback good and bad is good.
Fail troll is not.
So, you are either here to help or to not.
So far though

Lets turn the thread back into what we all can do to have the best brakes and the cheapest way to do it. As well as some pretty ones and some racy ones and plain jane ones. And newer Yaris ones, or older Corolla ones. And so on.

Lotsa good input so far from many thanks.
Hopefully no more bashing from the race clown: barf:
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:33 PM   #4
Jason@SportsCar
 
Drives: 2015 H Production Yaris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimKellyfan View Post
I mentioned the driving experience only to mock myself for how hard I am on the car sometimes, but also to enlighten you and the false statement you had, knowing you drove the hardest of them all, and not really knowing that fer sher



Actually, I started this thread, as there really was no real stickie or good info on other options or any options for that matter and wanted to help myself and others, as to what is available, didn't really start the thread for a bashing by the almighty racing clown, then get bashed again.

I have more than 480 certificates (in multiple manufacturing brands) in automotive, electrical and tires and do not claim to be the know it all, actually try and help, and be helped. I have been working on cars since 83 helpin pa, 84 in school, then on personal or girlfriends cars until 89 then part time until 97 then full time since then, but, dude, I do not claim to be all knowing.
I came here looking for tips and tricks, saving me time and helping others when I can, as much as I can.

There are some good techs on here that we want their advice, what they did on their brakes and what they recommend. I merely also stated what I was doing as well.
Feedback good and bad is good.
Fail troll is not.
So, you are either here to help or to not.
So far though

Lets turn the thread back into what we all can do to have the best brakes and the cheapest way to do it. As well as some pretty ones and some racy ones and plain jane ones. And newer Yaris ones, or older Corolla ones. And so on.

Lotsa good input so far from many thanks.
Hopefully no more bashing from the race clown: barf:
Great post. Is that English?

You can't help those that have made up their mind despite evidence to the contrary. Some guys are just so "street" they can't believe they are doing it wrong. Lol
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:08 PM   #5
xnamerxx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimKellyfan View Post
More specific on my warp is only when I am spirited driving it starts to after repeated use, but not everyday driving, it stays OK, but, I just have borderline run out. Too, looking closely, I do not need to even change my pads, but will soon, wife's Camry needs a tune up, and whatnot first on list.
But, you definitely cannot say you ride harder than any one of us, as you do not know how we drive.
What you call warp is pad material bedding into the rotor, that only happens when you stand on the brakes when their really hot sitting still. Like I mentioned before I've seen my rotor temps hit 700f, I didn't get the pedal vibration once. I've been to SC not a whole lot of mountains there, so not a whole lot of reasons to be riding the brakes like a $2 hooker.
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:25 PM   #6
JimKellyfan
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnamerxx View Post
What you call warp is pad material bedding into the rotor, that only happens when you stand on the brakes when their really hot sitting still. Like I mentioned before I've seen my rotor temps hit 700f, I didn't get the pedal vibration once. I've been to SC not a whole lot of mountains there, so not a whole lot of reasons to be riding the brakes like a $2 hooker.
Cool, thanks for the info.
Yeah, I try n use the gears, rather than stand on em in extreme circumstance, not as often as this thread makes it out to be.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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