1NR-FE Engine tunes-mods-etc.

[MugenRep]

Originally Posted by miiser

Also about the 1zz throttle swap. Is it really worth it? And I didn't quite get the modification I have to do.
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I'm not 100% sure it's worth it, but with these little engines, I'm sure every little bit helps. It was $40 from a local junkyard, so I figured I'd give it a try.

How I got mine to work.....

-Melted adhesive on adjustment screw.

- Installed WITHOUT adjusting at idle for 20 mins while it went through looking at and trying to learn the new throttle body.

-After it fluctuated for 20 mins. I adjusted the screw 2.5 turns counter-clockwise (I think). Then restarted and let it go through procedure again until the idle calmed down.

-Another guy in the iQ group after I did it, did it also, but it took more turns for him for whatever reason, but it eventually learned adjusting 1/2 turn each time, and then letting it sit to relearn idle.

Mine works 95% fine most of the time unless it's very hot and humid out at which point it fluctuates up on a cold engine start to about 2-3k rpms, and then immediately back down in under a count of 5. Then no further problems.


Do I think it was worth it? Yes for the cost, most definitely. If you prefer not to go that route, you can also send your throttle body to http://maxbore.com/ who can port, polish, and add a new throttle plate.

Another friend of mine also has access to a guy making throttle body spacers for the 1NR-FE throttle body if you're interested I can get his info.

[miiser]

Originally Posted by MugenRep

I'm not 100% sure it's worth it, but with these little engines, I'm sure every little bit helps. It was $40 from a local junkyard, so I figured I'd give it a try.



How I got mine to work.....



-Melted adhesive on adjustment screw.



- Installed WITHOUT adjusting at idle for 20 mins while it went through looking at and trying to learn the new throttle body.



-After it fluctuated for 20 mins. I adjusted the screw 2.5 turns counter-clockwise (I think). Then restarted and let it go through procedure again until the idle calmed down.



-Another guy in the iQ group after I did it, did it also, but it took more turns for him for whatever reason, but it eventually learned adjusting 1/2 turn each time, and then letting it sit to relearn idle.



Mine works 95% fine most of the time unless it's very hot and humid out at which point it fluctuates up on a cold engine start to about 2-3k rpms, and then immediately back down in under a count of 5. Then no further problems.





Do I think it was worth it? Yes for the cost, most definitely. If you prefer not to go that route, you can also send your throttle body to http://maxbore.com/ who can port, polish, and add a new throttle plate.



Another friend of mine also has access to a guy making throttle body spacers for the 1NR-FE throttle body if you're interested I can get his info.

Thanks for the info. Did you ever searched for ecu remap-chiptuning etc?

Also did the aftermarket header gave the car a little more juice?


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[MugenRep]

Originally Posted by miiser

Thanks for the info. Did you ever searched for ecu remap-chiptuning etc?

Also did the aftermarket header gave the car a little more juice?


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Nothing currently available for the iQ that I can find as far as getting it "reflashed". Modern ECUs, especially the CAN-BUS, can't be chip tuned per say. They need to be flashed or a piggyback that overrides (such as the CamCon cc-101).

According to the member who had his header custom made, it worked and added more power overall, which I'm sure is true since he deleted his primary catalytic convertor.

Here's some pics of the header compared to stock as well as the Group I saved info to. If you look under photos and albums, you'll see categories and info I've found associated with the engine and iQ chassis.

[miiser]

Originally Posted by MugenRep

Nothing currently available for the iQ that I can find as far as getting it "reflashed". Modern ECUs, especially the CAN-BUS, can't be chip tuned per say. They need to be flashed or a piggyback that overrides (such as the CamCon cc-101).



According to the member who had his header custom made, it worked and added more power overall, which I'm sure is true since he deleted his primary catalytic convertor.



Here's some pics of the header compared to stock as well as the Group I saved info to. If you look under photos and albums, you'll see categories and info I've found associated with the engine and iQ chassis.

Nice one.

Did you made the header custom made? Or you purchased it? And how much it costs? Also how much more loud with single header swap the car can be?

Also can you explain me what the camcon does? I just searched about it and it seems very interesting.
Is it easy to use?

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[MugenRep]

Originally Posted by miiser

Nice one.

Did you made the header custom made? Or you purchased it? And how much it costs? Also how much more loud with single header swap the car can be?

Also can you explain me what the camcon does? I just searched about it and it seems very interesting.
Is it easy to use?

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The header was made by a local welder for the member for $200 USD, and his iQ isn't too much louder than and iQ with a DC Sports cat-back and OEM catalytic convertors.

The CamCon really honestly needs at least a wide-band o2 sensor to make sure you don't run too lean and dyno tuning for best gains.

It allows you to adjust VVT-I timing on the fly to and as well as alter A/F curves throughout the rev range to optimize performance based on octane and modifications.

Until you'd get a tune, you can just set the 1NZ-FE settings into and and turn it on when or if needed

If CamCon isn't to your liking, you could buy one of Sangawa-Sans MiniCons which do almost the same thing.

http://www.t-san9.com/parts.html

[SirDigby]

Originally Posted by MugenRep

- Installed WITHOUT adjusting at idle for 20 mins while it went through looking at and trying to learn the new throttle body.

-After it fluctuated for 20 mins. I adjusted the screw 2.5 turns counter-clockwise (I think). Then restarted and let it go through procedure again until the idle calmed down.

the screw you are adjusting is the cold idle screw. it is easier to adjust when the engine is cold.

another option is the sprint booster. it's advantage, besides acceleration increase, is a valet mode and a "lock out" security feature. they are pretty neat.
www.sprintbooster.com

[miiser]

Originally Posted by SirDigby

the screw you are adjusting is the cold idle screw. it is easier to adjust when the engine is cold.



another option is the sprint booster. it's advantage, besides acceleration increase, is a valet mode and a "lock out" security feature. they are pretty neat.

www.sprintbooster.com

Wow it's made in my country too. I didn't expect that. I will check this out

--------------------
I checked it
So it's just to reduce the throttle lag?

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