New here...First Yaris.

[malibuguy]

hell yeah nice purchase. My clutch started going soft at 120k...however I do beat it up on the regular & I upgraded to a higher capacity ACT unit

[40mpg]

Originally Posted by malibuguy

hell yeah nice purchase. My clutch started going soft at 120k...however I do beat it up on the regular & I upgraded to a higher capacity ACT unit

How was the install? I've done a couple Honda's. I assume it would be a little tougher with the Yaris being a smaller car. I'm very mechanically inclined, however extremely busy. I would have to do it in one day. Possible?

Sent from my SM-S327VL using Tapatalk

[zoidberg444]

Originally Posted by 40mpg

How was the install? I've done a couple Honda's. I assume it would be a little tougher with the Yaris being a smaller car. I'm very mechanically inclined, however extremely busy. I would have to do it in one day. Possible?

Sent from my SM-S327VL using Tapatalk

I did it in a few hours on my 1.0 hatchback. I thought it was pretty easy. Only major hiccups were the lower ball joints being seized in the control arms. I had to take the upper bolts out that pinch the strut to the knuckle. Meaning i had to get the tracking adjusted afterwards.

The rear engine mount. Specifically the through bolt into the subframe was a BITCH. Impact wouldn't shift it. A meter breaker bar with a cheater backwards and forwards and lots of homebrew penetrating fluid.

I'm sure the engine bay is a little tighter with a 1.5 4 cylinder than a 1.0 3 cylinder so getting the gearbox in and out would probably be a little more troublesome.

Depending on where you live, you might be one of those lucky people where the cars don't rust and hand tools will do everything.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[m456an]

Originally Posted by zoidberg444

I did it in a few hours on my 1.0 hatchback. I thought it was pretty easy. Only major hiccups were the lower ball joints being seized in the control arms. I had to take the upper bolts out that pinch the strut to the knuckle. Meaning i had to get the tracking adjusted afterwards.

The rear engine mount. Specifically the through bolt into the subframe was a BITCH. Impact wouldn't shift it. A meter breaker bar with a cheater backwards and forwards and lots of homebrew penetrating fluid.

I'm sure the engine bay is a little tighter with a 1.5 4 cylinder than a 1.0 3 cylinder so getting the gearbox in and out would probably be a little more troublesome.

Depending on where you live, you might be one of those lucky people where the cars don't rust and hand tools will do everything.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Well done, I struggled with the rear wiper nut and gave up. It seemed to be welded on.