T Montague's 2zr swap - '08 m/t sedan some extra info

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

The spin on conversion really has no benefit unless you need/want to run a sandwich adapter for gauges.
I actually prefer the original set up as it makes it much easier to view the filter and any particulates that were caught.

I do run off the shelf full synthetic oils, the current sample I'm waiting on is Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 and my past UOA's were with Mobil 1 0w30. Unfortunately PUP and even PP isnt available locally in a 40 weight so I'll be switching to something else.

I have so far had no reason to need a boutique brand oil that costs much more. Even grade III synthetics are very stout oils and can easily compare to many IV's as they just have that many more additives to make up for it.

The next oil I have been eyeing in Canadian Tire's Formula 1 (made by Shell) as they have a 0w40 euro spec. The Euro specs have a much higher HTHS due to their use of the autobahn. This obviously pairs well with my track use.

Overall temp of a full syn oil isnt really the issue - it is the cause of the issue. If the oil thins too low then lowering temps can help that. Alternatively you can run a higher weight oil that will maintain factory spec viscocity at those higher temps. The 2zr is a factory spec'd 20 weight oil in NA but a 30 weight in hotter climates (allegedly) this is based on 212F summer oil temps of normal use. Based on my research a 40 weight should bring me closer to those viscocities at 260-280F I typically run at on track

Great explanation. I have done quite a bit of reading over the past few years at BITOG. I used to always buy synthetic, but have since returned to conventional. I'm always monitoring my coolant and oil temps in my van as Kia makes many more sensors available than Toyota. I can't get oil pressure, however. After driving for a bit, oil temps are usually ~10 - 15 degrees higher. If I apply the same logic to my Yaris, even under extreme conditions - such as bumper to bumper traffic in August - there would never be a need for anything other than an API conventional. In my old Dodge grand Caravan, I installed a homebuilt tee and monitored both oil temp and pressure with cheap electrical gauges. I also tapped the transmission lines for both a Magnaflow and temp sensor.

One synthetic I do did buy occasionally, and will still buy when it goes on clearance at Walmart USA is the SuperTech Full Synthetic. The last 6 jugs I bought, I think i paid $12.00 a jug for. According to some reports it's not a superlative looking oil on paper - with a relatively low TBN - but fares really well in UOAs.

As for the spin on filter, at some point I expect that I might add a sandwich plate and gauges since I can't get this data from OBD. And, in the unlikely event that I decide to significantly ungrade the 2ZR performance, this would obviously come in handy.

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Great explanation. I have done quite a bit of reading over the past few years at BITOG. I used to always buy synthetic, but have since returned to conventional. I'm always monitoring my coolant and oil temps in my van as Kia makes many more sensors available than Toyota. I can't get oil pressure, however. After driving for a bit, oil temps are usually ~10 - 15 degrees higher. If I apply the same logic to my Yaris, even under extreme conditions - such as bumper to bumper traffic in August - there would never be a need for anything other than an API conventional. In my old Dodge grand Caravan, I installed a homebuilt tee and monitored both oil temp and pressure with cheap electrical gauges. I also tapped the transmission lines for both a Magnaflow and temp sensor.

One synthetic I do did buy occasionally, and will still buy when it goes on clearance at Walmart USA is the SuperTech Full Synthetic. The last 6 jugs I bought, I think i paid $12.00 a jug for. According to some reports it's not a superlative looking oil on paper - with a relatively low TBN - but fares really well in UOAs.

As for the spin on filter, at some point I expect that I might add a sandwich plate and gauges since I can't get this data from OBD. And, in the unlikely chance that I decide to significantly ungrade the 2ZR performance, this would obviously come in handy.

oddly enough I have found that currently during the winter, oil temps hover about 10 degree lower than coolant (coolant stays around 181F) but on the highway when I'm hovering around 3.5k rpm, the oil is either equal or slightly higher than the typical 185F coolant temp.

In the middle of summer coolant will typically be 188-194F on the highway and oil around 212F. In stop and go traffic mid summer coolant peaks around 212F but tends to stay at 202F and oil around 220F max.

During 45min track session coolant stays between 220 and 235F and oil gets up to 265-290F.

I run off the shelf syn oil in all my cars simply due to the really cold winters here and how much easier it is to start them. Even my awd Vibe, gets 0w30 and syn gear lube in the differential. I have found the morning start ups much smoother, especially up North at the cottage after it sits over night. It's true that a dino 5w30 would still be pumpable at these temps, but a syn oil is that much less viscous and easier to pump, meaning easier to start and faster and better lubrication. I just wait until they are on sale and typically find 5L jugs for around $37.

I use syn oil in my car for obvious reasons. I wouldn't trust a dino oil at 290F and under high rpm for 45 mins. I have very little burning off of oil even with the summer filled with track days, likely due to the lower volatility that syn oil has.

i am interested to see how my coolant and oil temps stack up this summer without a condenser in front of my rad, a now much larger grill and a dual pass radiator. I would expect coolant to stay below 220F but as for the oil I'm not too sure.