Plastic dip hood?

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Well, it's definitely repairable albiet a little more extensive than I had expected. The roof would have to be completely repainted, but you have natural boundary lines there and, because it's essentially perpendicular to the other panels, a slight difference in color/texture would be less noticeable. You would probably want to feather the paint down into the A-pillar a bit. The liftgate would likely have to be blended into the rear quarter panels a bit with some feathering of the base coat. But, you might get away with painting just the liftgate. I guess it all depends on the quality of job you're looking for. Removing all the bits and pieces on the liftgate is pretty easy and you'd certainly want to do that.

Is there any chance that a friend/relative has a garage that you could do this in? You wouldn't need a full booth, just somewhere out of the wind, given the size of the panels you're tackling. The roof is a very large area and would be highly susceptible to contamination.

You are going to need a fair bit of material for this job. I painted my entire car with about 1.5 - 2 quarts (including 50% reducer) of basecoat and about 1 gallon of clear coat.

I would buy at least three full size aerosol color-matched basecoat and likely 4 - 5 cans of the SprayMax, but you'd want to calculate a little more carefully.

BTW, my car too suffered what appeared to be hail damage. It was contained to the roof and there were 4 - 5 good sized pock marks. Since I was repainting the car anyway, I just filled them with bondo and sanded them nice and flat before priming.

Thanks 06YarisRS,

Yes I do have a relative with a garage, so I may be able to talk them in to letting me use the garage. In order to try to understand better the requirements, 1) how long would a paint job take in your estimation? I suppose I could do it in increments, and not all at once.

In addition, 2) is there a temperature range I need to shoot for? I am presently in the Pacific Northwest of the US, so it generally does not get terribly hot or cold here, regardless of the season.

3) You mention sanding (above & in a previous post), would it be realistic to just hand sand, or would I realistically need some kind of sander?

4) You also say, "you'd want to calculate a little more carefully". what is the calculation in terms of area per can of paint and clear coat?

Based on what you said above, it looks like the cost for paint and clear coat would be about $150 to $200. Does that sound correct?

Thanks,

R.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by RMcG

Thanks 06YarisRS,

Yes I do have a relative with a garage, so I may be able to talk them in to letting me use the garage. In order to try to understand better the requirements, 1) how long would a paint job take in your estimation? I suppose I could do it in increments, and not all at once.

In addition, 2) is there a temperature range I need to shoot for? I am presently in the Pacific Northwest of the US, so it generally does not get terribly hot or cold here, regardless of the season.

3) You mention sanding (above & in a previous post), would it be realistic to just hand sand, or would I realistically need some kind of sander?

4) You also say, "you'd want to calculate a little more carefully". what is the calculation in terms of area per can of paint and clear coat?

Based on what you said above, it looks like the cost for paint and clear coat would be about $150 to $200. Does that sound correct?

Thanks,

R.

Hey. I'll get back to you tomorrow with responses to your questions, but, yes, you can do it in stages.

Edit: I'll share my thoughts on a couple of your questions tonight.

2) I think as long as you're over 60 F you should be fine. It was terribly hot and humid the day I painted my car. I had condensation develop in my compressor. You won't have to worry about that. Above 60, your off gassing times between coats wll just be a bit shorter. Your paints should have Instructions on them.

3) hand sanding is time consuming. I would pick up a cheap palm sander if you don't already have one. If you do use a high build primer, you can block sand manually. We could talk about that a bit later if you move forward with the project.

4) I would just do some rough measurements and calculate the approximate surface area. Your product cans will give you a sense of single coat coverage. I would think that a couple hundred $ should be close to your anticipated costs, less some extras like sandpaper (400 -600 grit for before base coat and 1500 and 2500 for wetsanding your cured clearcoat), a block sanding block, a palm sander (if needed to be purchased), a solvent such as lacquer thinner, tack cloths, painters tape etc.

More to follow...