Total Newb - Need help with picking speakers, tools and terms - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

_S7V7N_ · 11-03-2013, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimKellyfan

CLIP THE SIGNAL ?
CUT THE WIRE IS THAT OR ?
I HAVE THE CRAPPY SQUARE LED STYLE, RADIO.
I HAVE THE MODEL AND SERIAL NUMBER WRITTEN DOWN, AS THEY CHANGED THE UNIT A FEW WEEKS AFTER I BOUGHT IT, AND THEY LET ME HANG WITH THE TECH / AN OLD CO-WORKER WHILE HE DID THE RADIO. (old radio said CD IN, even when not in)
NO WRITINGS ON SPEAKER MAG IN TRUNK.
BUT, YEAH IT SEEMS NO MATTER WHAT SPEAKER, I WILL NEED TO GET ME AN AMP. I HAVE A 2 CHANNEL, BUT WANT A 4 CHANNEL.
SPEAKERS, I WANT POLK AUDIO, BUT AMPS, I AM AFRAID POLKS MAY NOT BE GOOD ENOUGH IN THE AMP DEPARTMENT, AS MY PSW10 TOOK A DUMP 3 YEARS IN ON MY HOME AUDIO SUB AMP, LUCKILY, THEY GAVE ME A FREEBIE AMP AND IS WORKING SO FAR.
POLK'S, LOVE THEIR AUDIO QUALITY AND CLARITY AND POWER TAKING ABILITIES THOUGH. I DO KNOW, WITH FACTORY SPEAKERS, THE STOCK RADIO STRUGGLES, BUT THE STOCK RADIOS TUNING CAPABILITIES ARE GREAT (CAN GET GREENVILLE RADIO STATION IN CHARLOTTE AREA)

@JimKellyfan

Read this a few times over.

Signal Clipping

http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm

JimKellyfan · 11-04-2013, 08:06 AM

TMI
Good read for those who want it.
Basic definition = good enough.

Quote:

Originally Posted by _S7V7N_

@JimKellyfan

Read this a few times over.

Signal Clipping

http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm

_S7V7N_ · 11-04-2013, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimKellyfan

TMI
Good read for those who want it.
Basic definition = good enough.

TMI ?

Man you think a clipped signal is cutting wire.

You posted a question it got answered. Now its too much reading ? Lol.

I apologize for giving an in depth reply.

Best thing for you to do is go to an install shop or Best Buy. Have them install whatever system you choose.

sqcomp · 10-31-2013, 04:24 AM

I bought a good stereo...it had NO Wattage output RMS or peak. It took me to the top levels of SQ competition.

Like S7 mentioned, look for the cleanest signal possible. Whether that be on the source material, through the stereo's amplifier and/or a standalone amplifier or what have you.

We can split hairs all day. It's about the cleanest and most accurate recreation of the original signal for a lot of people. To others it's about the loudest one can possibly achieve.

dj92 · 10-31-2013, 05:53 PM

No flame:
At least my Yaris' speakers have 4 Ohms.
That makes far more than 10 Watts from the stock headunit (which has, like almost (!) all with internal Amplifier, no step up converter) even if I include voltage drop in the amplifier ;)
Of course I don't think that the original speakers can handle far more power than the stock HU can deliver.

Please don't hit me, but I don't know whether I should open a thread just for this question:
How much bass can one expect from a box built from fiber glass and resin that fits perfectly under the passenger seat whith a let's say 300W RMS speaker?
(my female colleagues I use to drive around from time to time might like it

)
(the space under the driver's seat is already occupied by the jack)
I totally understand that a bass box in the luggage compartment would be best, but then I always have this big thing in there wasting space ;)

_S7V7N_ · 11-03-2013, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dj92

No flame:
At least my Yaris' speakers have 4 Ohms.
That makes far more than 10 Watts from the stock headunit (which has, like almost (!) all with internal Amplifier, no step up converter) even if I include voltage drop in the amplifier ;)
Of course I don't think that the original speakers can handle far more power than the stock HU can deliver.

Please don't hit me, but I don't know whether I should open a thread just for this question:
How much bass can one expect from a box built from fiber glass and resin that fits perfectly under the passenger seat whith a let's say 300W RMS speaker?
(my female colleagues I use to drive around from time to time might like it

)
(the space under the driver's seat is already occupied by the jack)
I totally understand that a bass box in the luggage compartment would be best, but then I always have this big thing in there wasting space ;)

Explain what's in Red.

sqcomp · 10-31-2013, 08:00 PM

"CLIP THE SIGNAL ?
CUT THE WIRE IS THAT OR ?"

Back away from the radio...do NOT cut any wires!

No no...This is more appropriate:

sqcomp · 10-31-2013, 08:09 PM

Okay guys...

Please back away from the assumptions of potential and resistance. Please.

Use the K.I.S.S. principle. What can you do to simplify and/or improve your current systems to make the signal quality better?

JimKellyfan · 11-01-2013, 08:12 AM

I guess it was how it was worded for me, or I am too old and not hip on the lingo.
But thanks for reiteration / explanation.

sqcomp · 11-01-2013, 07:37 PM

What it seems that you have is the integrated head unit.

I have/had the same. There are several options up front for you. One costs a heck of a lot more but will retain the factory look and give you HUGE control over your sound.

I speak of an aftermarket processor to an amplifier. I've run several processors in my experience.

Another option for you with the factory head unit is to run a less expensive line output converter to an amplifier.

Oh and don't take anything personally, I simply wanted to give you a hard time. I'd also bet that we're probably around the same age plus or minus a few years. Age has nothing to do with it all honestly.

sqcomp · 11-04-2013, 09:59 AM

That page S7 listed is a must read for anyone who thinks they know or who wants to know about pushing their system to the limits.

A basic definition is good enough for those who don't know or want to know what is going on when they blow their system to low earth orbit.

In my last system I addressed all the points of control listed on the page. I had three points of level control (gain) for each speaker and then a fourth point of control for my tweeters. How so?

All my music was, as much as possible, conditioned to not clip at the signal level with a music editor.

My old source unit had level control on all four crossover bands.

My processor had level control on all crossover bands.

Each amplifier had gain control.

The tweeters, even though they were run actively, had a Butterworth filter constructed to cut the signal approximately 1kHz below the normal running frequency range of 3kHz...even though I usually ran them around 10 kHz or higher because of the mid range speakers. The filter (two caps for each positive wire) was placed inline after the amplifier and before the speaker.

My source was usually running at full unclipped voltage (4.99 V). I hardly even touched the source. Most adjustments were made off the processor's control. Do we expect you to go to the same level of protection that I did? Not at all. That being said, you have the know how around you to protect your investment.

...Use it...

Or don't complain when you launch speakers consistently.

sqcomp · 11-04-2013, 10:09 PM

Oh gawd...not Best Buy.

On the other hand...perhaps that disaster waiting to happen is fitting.

_S7V7N_ · 11-04-2013, 10:28 PM

Best Buy sells Polk and will spoon feed him what he wants to hear while draining his bank account.

Within a few months he'll say the amp or speakers failed because he went ape sh!t on the volume and clipped his system to hell.

At that time I'll post the same link.

sqcomp · 11-05-2013, 01:30 AM

Truth. I can't tell you how many times I've seen that chain screw vehicles up...

JimKellyfan · 11-06-2013, 05:39 PM

No Best Buy for me.
I just used to throw any speaker that worked in.
Then I bought some polks after goin over a friends house and hearin his.
I have polks inside and outside, and used to have them in my Caprice.
I got them from various sources, none of which were from best buy.
My Caprice speakers, I got from polk audio's ebay store, I blasted them as much as I could and they sounded great.
My house speakers, I bought all but one set from Newegg, the one set I got at an ebay auction (caprice were buy it nows).
And the outside speakers, I won them from polk audio themselves.
Now, don't get me wrong, I do not like polk audio amplifiers or subs. I have a PSW10 (entry level and garbage) the amp failed after three years, it had a port noise until I fixed it and so on.
Now their speaker quality, the clarity is awesome.
My wife and I listened to some music when we bought our first set of Monitor 60's, and we heard sounds in songs we never heard before.
I know there are other good brands and better brands, but dollar for dollar, to spend less and get entry level audiophile, the polks have it.
I only preach polk, because I am believer, in many, not all of their products.
On ebay now, there is a 5 1/4 3 way and a 3 way 6 x 9 for about 160/170 total. I have to wait for now, because I want the sway bar first, but will get one of them. My Caprice had the MM (mobile monitors which could withstand salt spray, so you know they can take the condensation/vibration abuse door speakers see, as well as the sun burden back panel speakers see.
Just tryin to share the knowledge is all, tryin to help the fellow Yarii owners.
FYI, this past weekend, I shaved the "is" off my back logo, so it says "Yar" (think Simpson sailor dude, "Yar!")

sqcomp · 11-07-2013, 02:25 AM

Yeah...my wife just looks at me like I'm crazy because I bought 70's gear for my stereo components. Nothing like having "golden age" stereo gear.

JimKellyfan · 11-07-2013, 08:08 AM

Yeah, earlier this year, I sold my Sansui G33000. It worked, but needed new caps, but before that issue, it blew a woofer in one of my Monitors. Well, I blew it by having the volume on "4", so to say for about 4 hours. If you know the stereo, it was a top 5 of all time ever made, in the behemoth power wars in the late 70's early 80's. It pushed 300 wpc and peaked at 600 wpc. It was amazing while it produced, I miss it.

JimKellyfan · 11-07-2013, 08:09 AM

Broken, it sold for 2k, if refurbed, it would gather 6-10k, believe it or not.

10-31-2013, 04:24 AM	#4
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	I bought a good stereo...it had NO Wattage output RMS or peak. It took me to the top levels of SQ competition. Like S7 mentioned, look for the cleanest signal possible. Whether that be on the source material, through the stereo's amplifier and/or a standalone amplifier or what have you. We can split hairs all day. It's about the cleanest and most accurate recreation of the original signal for a lot of people. To others it's about the loudest one can possibly achieve. __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

10-31-2013, 08:00 PM	#7
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	"CLIP THE SIGNAL ? CUT THE WIRE IS THAT OR ?" Back away from the radio...do NOT cut any wires! No no...This is more appropriate: __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

10-31-2013, 08:09 PM	#8
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	Okay guys... Please back away from the assumptions of potential and resistance. Please. Use the K.I.S.S. principle. What can you do to simplify and/or improve your current systems to make the signal quality better? __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

11-01-2013, 08:12 AM	#9
JimKellyfan Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: the good Carolina Posts: 173	I guess it was how it was worded for me, or I am too old and not hip on the lingo. But thanks for reiteration / explanation. __________________ 2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]

11-01-2013, 07:37 PM	#10
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	What it seems that you have is the integrated head unit. I have/had the same. There are several options up front for you. One costs a heck of a lot more but will retain the factory look and give you HUGE control over your sound. I speak of an aftermarket processor to an amplifier. I've run several processors in my experience. Another option for you with the factory head unit is to run a less expensive line output converter to an amplifier. Oh and don't take anything personally, I simply wanted to give you a hard time. I'd also bet that we're probably around the same age plus or minus a few years. Age has nothing to do with it all honestly. __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

10-31-2013, 05:53 PM	#5
dj92 Embracing Curves View User's Garage Drives: '14 Prius Executive Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: mid-western Germany Posts: 256	No flame: At least my Yaris' speakers have 4 Ohms. That makes far more than 10 Watts from the stock headunit (which has, like almost (!) all with internal Amplifier, no step up converter) even if I include voltage drop in the amplifier ;) Of course I don't think that the original speakers can handle far more power than the stock HU can deliver. Please don't hit me, but I don't know whether I should open a thread just for this question: How much bass can one expect from a box built from fiber glass and resin that fits perfectly under the passenger seat whith a let's say 300W RMS speaker? (my female colleagues I use to drive around from time to time might like it ) (the space under the driver's seat is already occupied by the jack) I totally understand that a bass box in the luggage compartment would be best, but then I always have this big thing in there wasting space ;)

11-04-2013, 09:59 AM	#11
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	That page S7 listed is a must read for anyone who thinks they know or who wants to know about pushing their system to the limits. A basic definition is good enough for those who don't know or want to know what is going on when they blow their system to low earth orbit. In my last system I addressed all the points of control listed on the page. I had three points of level control (gain) for each speaker and then a fourth point of control for my tweeters. How so? All my music was, as much as possible, conditioned to not clip at the signal level with a music editor. My old source unit had level control on all four crossover bands. My processor had level control on all crossover bands. Each amplifier had gain control. The tweeters, even though they were run actively, had a Butterworth filter constructed to cut the signal approximately 1kHz below the normal running frequency range of 3kHz...even though I usually ran them around 10 kHz or higher because of the mid range speakers. The filter (two caps for each positive wire) was placed inline after the amplifier and before the speaker. My source was usually running at full unclipped voltage (4.99 V). I hardly even touched the source. Most adjustments were made off the processor's control. Do we expect you to go to the same level of protection that I did? Not at all. That being said, you have the know how around you to protect your investment. ...Use it... Or don't complain when you launch speakers consistently. __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine Last edited by sqcomp; 11-04-2013 at 10:16 AM.

11-04-2013, 10:09 PM	#12
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	Oh gawd...not Best Buy. On the other hand...perhaps that disaster waiting to happen is fitting. __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

11-04-2013, 10:28 PM	#13
_S7V7N_ Drives: Yaris 4 Door Sedan Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: South Texas Posts: 805	Best Buy sells Polk and will spoon feed him what he wants to hear while draining his bank account. Within a few months he'll say the amp or speakers failed because he went ape sh!t on the volume and clipped his system to hell. At that time I'll post the same link. __________________ Audio is under Construction Kenwood KDC-X794 Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component Speaker System - AUTOTEK ATX65CX 6.5-Inch Hifonics BXi 1210D - Crunch PowerZone P1400.4 (2)12 inch Kicker CVR's - 0 gauge from battery to Distribution block - 4 Gauge Power/Grounds to amps - Duralast Yellow Top - Big 3

11-05-2013, 01:30 AM	#14
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	Truth. I can't tell you how many times I've seen that chain screw vehicles up... __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

11-06-2013, 05:39 PM	#15
JimKellyfan Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: the good Carolina Posts: 173	No Best Buy for me. I just used to throw any speaker that worked in. Then I bought some polks after goin over a friends house and hearin his. I have polks inside and outside, and used to have them in my Caprice. I got them from various sources, none of which were from best buy. My Caprice speakers, I got from polk audio's ebay store, I blasted them as much as I could and they sounded great. My house speakers, I bought all but one set from Newegg, the one set I got at an ebay auction (caprice were buy it nows). And the outside speakers, I won them from polk audio themselves. Now, don't get me wrong, I do not like polk audio amplifiers or subs. I have a PSW10 (entry level and garbage) the amp failed after three years, it had a port noise until I fixed it and so on. Now their speaker quality, the clarity is awesome. My wife and I listened to some music when we bought our first set of Monitor 60's, and we heard sounds in songs we never heard before. I know there are other good brands and better brands, but dollar for dollar, to spend less and get entry level audiophile, the polks have it. I only preach polk, because I am believer, in many, not all of their products. On ebay now, there is a 5 1/4 3 way and a 3 way 6 x 9 for about 160/170 total. I have to wait for now, because I want the sway bar first, but will get one of them. My Caprice had the MM (mobile monitors which could withstand salt spray, so you know they can take the condensation/vibration abuse door speakers see, as well as the sun burden back panel speakers see. Just tryin to share the knowledge is all, tryin to help the fellow Yarii owners. FYI, this past weekend, I shaved the "is" off my back logo, so it says "Yar" (think Simpson sailor dude, "Yar!") __________________ 2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]

11-07-2013, 02:25 AM	#16
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	Yeah...my wife just looks at me like I'm crazy because I bought 70's gear for my stereo components. Nothing like having "golden age" stereo gear. __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

11-07-2013, 08:08 AM	#17
JimKellyfan Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: the good Carolina Posts: 173	Yeah, earlier this year, I sold my Sansui G33000. It worked, but needed new caps, but before that issue, it blew a woofer in one of my Monitors. Well, I blew it by having the volume on "4", so to say for about 4 hours. If you know the stereo, it was a top 5 of all time ever made, in the behemoth power wars in the late 70's early 80's. It pushed 300 wpc and peaked at 600 wpc. It was amazing while it produced, I miss it. __________________ 2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]

11-07-2013, 08:09 AM	#18
JimKellyfan Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: the good Carolina Posts: 173	Broken, it sold for 2k, if refurbed, it would gather 6-10k, believe it or not. __________________ 2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]

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