Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[DailyDriver]

your speaker wires are running too close to your wires for the turn signal. u just need to separate them. if it isn't possible to separate them, insulate the crap out of them. if they actually have to cross, then cross them at 90 degrees or perpendicular to each other, and try to insulate them as best as you can. should be that easy. (fingers crossed)

[sqcomp]

D,

Adding to what DD is saying, take a look at your wire runs in their entirety. That buzz could be several things. The ground loop is constant correct? Not off and on with your signal?

Note...remember how I killed one of my LRx amps? That was a ground loop. I didn't have any noise either. If you're that far into it it could be a speaker wire OR an RCA as well.

That's why I suggest looking at your runs in their entirety. I know it's a bish...it'll save you some headache if you do it now.

Also, feel free to drop the shop a line. The guys will be able to talk you through some possibilities.

[Alien Mantis]

And this is why it is important to do a CAREFUL wiring job.

The wiring job is just as important as the gear you buy.

Since a car stereo rides on the same electrical system as the rest of the car, all kinds of sneaky issues can crop up.

Which is why we try and separate / isolate the audio system wiring as much as possible during an install.
Some issues are avoidable, with a careful wiring job.

I seen one car that had a whine coming through the speakers, it was relative to engine RPM. If the engine was off, there was no whine.
It turned out to be a bad diode in the alternator.
Alternator was replaced, and the whine went away.

Some issues are hard to track down.

Since you said it was buzzing on the right side components, do some isolation tests.
Swap your RCA's at the amp, and see if the problem switches over to the other side.
If it does, then track it back. If it doesn't change anything, track it forward.




And.... you were going to give us some info on your subwoofer setup I believe? With pictures too?

*AHEM*

[47_MasoN_47]

Sounds to me like the wires may either have a ground loop or that your wires are running too close to the current for your lights.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Alien Mantis

One other thing: did you ever tell us anything about the BOX those Solobarics are in? Sealed or ported? What Ft^3 ?
Also, what model Solobarics? L5 or L7 ?
( L7's are bigtime power hungry beasts )
How do you have them wired up? What is the total OHMS load? Are they single or dual voice coil? What ohm per coil?
What is the RMS power rating of your amp at WHAT OHM LOAD?
You gotta match up these numbers correctly, or you will cook your amp, or severely underpower your subs.

How about a photo of them!

Here are some specs and notes from the Solo-Barics and Amp:
















I'm running Parallel at 4 Ohm



Here are the specs for the Bachuka




In other words I could run only one Solo-Baric and get good results? I should try it!

This is the LINK for the Manual (Solo-Barics)
.

[derickveliz2]

.
Thanks everybody for all the input about the "noise" I'm running behind schedule but I'll catch up and try every suggestion. I'll keep a log and let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks again!

Derick.

[Alien Mantis]

Ok, you got them old-skool round solobarics.

Classics!

You still didn't tell us how you have them wired-up, and the voice coil info.
( your total OHM load )

That Pioneer amp you have is really sweet, but it's NOT a subwoofer amp.

This is what you need right here:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...KAC-9104D.html

Can't beat that deal! 900 watts RMS @ 2 ohms, FREE SHIPPING, what more could ya want?

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Alien Mantis

You still didn't tell us how you have them wired-up, and the voice coil info.
( your total OHM load )

That Pioneer amp you have is really sweet, but it's NOT a subwoofer amp.

I'm sorry but my lack of knowledge is wining this time:

I think I wired them up in parallel see image below.

voice coil info? total OHM load?>>> I'm clue less where do I get that?

How do I know if an amp it's a subwoofer amp? I thought it was

Thanks for all the help

[derickveliz2]

Today I had to do the sticker (inspection) in my car, so I took all the wires, mids and tweets out the view. Pass...

Then I went to the local car-audio store and got my self good RCAs. some wires to get ground to the HU from the main ground I have for the amps.

So here I go again taking that back seat out, passengers seat and trim panels around and below HU...

we'll see.

(o:

[FcukThis]

Oh man.. interior removal..
What a pain..

Been there, done that.. Twice.. it sucks!

Best of luck Derick, hope all the problems go away.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by FcukThis

Oh man.. interior removal..
What a pain..

Been there, done that.. Twice.. it sucks!

Best of luck Derick, hope all the problems go away.

Thanks me 2!

D.

[sqcomp]

I'd take a look at the spec sheets for the D series solos. I was mistaken when I thought that these were D series.

[Alien Mantis]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

I think I wired them up in parallel see image below.
voice coil info? total OHM load?>>> I'm clue less where do I get that?
How do I know if an amp it's a subwoofer amp? I thought it was

You THINK?
( you need to know this stuff )

That image does not relate to your system.
That image is one single voice coil sub, on one monoblock amp at 4 ohms.
YOU are running 3 subs ( unknown voice coils ) on a 2-channel amp!

You get YOUR info by looking at the back of your subs, and the wiring.
Check to see if they are dual or single voice coils, what OHMS they are, and exactly how they are wired-up.
That will allow you to determine what your total OHM LOAD is.

A SUBWOOFER AMP is typically a CLASS D MONOBLOCK.

You cannot do a proper install of a car audio system without knowing your speaker loads. PERIOD.

So look into that, and then tell us what you find.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Alien Mantis

You THINK?
( you need to know this stuff )
You cannot do a proper install of a car audio system without knowing your speaker loads. PERIOD.

So look into that, and then tell us what you find.

Knowledge is power... so I'm popping out one of the Solos tonight, I'll let you know.

Thanks a million

[sqcomp]

There are exeptions to the sub amp being a D class..mine is an A/B. Just being disagreeable with AM. :)

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

Knowledge is power... so I'm popping out one of the Solos tonight, I'll let you know.

Thanks a million

I did it and it doesn't say any where what king of woofer is, besides the logo and "Still Water Designs" there are 2 connectors + and - and it says 8 OHMS. Wires go all positive from each woofer together to positive on amp and all negative together to negative on amp.

Will post pictures tomorrow.

D.

[derickveliz2]

.
OK, I did all the wiring possible...

-redo the main - ground connection.
-new ground from main ground for HU
-new shield RCA cables
-ran blue wire (signal) on the other side of RCAs

when I turned the engine on....

bizzz bizzzz brrrrmmm burrrrmmmm

I tap with my had the new RCA where they plug into the amp (4 channel amp for mids and tweets) and the noise is gone! tap them again and the noise comes back, what a bummer!

is my amp "BAD"

. do I need 2 new amps or what?

.

[derickveliz2]

It's confusing...
This morning on my way to work I stopped to check the wires around like 3 or 4 times, and the noise was still there every time, suddenly one of the tweeters got disconnected (right side) and the noise was gone, I drove for another 50 miles and no noise at all.

When I got to work I connected the right tweeter and no music was coming out of it. then I switched left & right and the right tweeter was OK, I switched back and I pushed hard the RCAs into the amp and I got music, no noise at all.
A good feature of the P-99 is that I can easily MUTE any speaker to isolate the one I'm working on, very handy.

Maybe the amps input is loose or bad for that channel? I'm going to keep testing on my way back home tonight.

Regardless of all the noise issues... sound was great! when no engine noise was present.

I apologize if I write all my frustrations here. But it helps me realize what's going on, and really appreciate your feed back, thanks a million.