Seeking wheel advice from someone who KNOWS

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by Loren

unless you value the bling of "flushness" more than not rubbing.

with the proper setup you can have bling flushness and no rubbing. :)

just takes a little extra work.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by Russelt3hPirate

with the proper setup you can have bling flushness and no rubbing. :)

just takes a little extra work.

hours of labor at the alignment rack

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Loren

14 pounds isn't "obscenely heavy" for a 15x7, but it's not exactly "light", either.

My 15x7 Falken Hanabi's weigh just a tick over 11 pounds each and cost about $89 each. THAT is light and cheap. But, not everyone likes the styling. My goals were "light and cheap", so I didn't care.

To answer your rubbing question: I'd stick with 195/55's. I've not had any rubbing with those. Had some with 215/50's (Toyo T1-R, which were actually closer to 205). And I'm on 15x7 with 41mm offset.

I also had rubbing on the upper fender liner under hard cornering with 195/55's on a 15x7 with 32mm offset. Definitely stick with offset in the 40-45mm range unless you value the bling of "flushness" more than not rubbing.

Thanks for the advice.

Living here in the Northeast (pothole and frost-heave ravaged roads), I value strength.

I have yet to see an OEM aluminum wheel bend in this area, yet I've seen dozens of lightweight, cast aftermarket wheels bend.

Such is the cost of reducing weight by effectively removing material.

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

Thanks for the advice.

Living here in the Northeast (pothole and frost-heave ravaged roads), I value strength.

I have yet to see an OEM aluminum wheel bend in this area, yet I've seen dozens of lightweight, cast aftermarket wheels bend.

Such is the cost of reducing weight by effectively removing material.

I've seen an OEM aluminum wheel fall apart in NJ.

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Russelt3hPirate

I've seen an OEM aluminum wheel fall apart in NJ.

There are perhaps 5,000 of them for every one aftermarket wheel.

Try running a 10 pound aftermarket "racing wheel" in the NJ streets and see how long it lasts.

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

There are perhaps 5,000 of them for every one aftermarket wheel.

Try running a 10 pound aftermarket "racing wheel" in the NJ streets and see how long it lasts.

I'm sure people do, in fact I know people running 18" variants of my wheel (not 10 lbs since it's a 18" wheel) but they aren't destroyed as you seem to be implying.

also, if a wheel is damaged by the state owned roads you can get the state to buy you a new wheel.

Seen it done numerous times when it is properly documented.

[Russelt3hPirate]

here's a little list of questions for you.

Would you consider a wheel that meets JWL standards good enough for the street?

The wheels I have are 15x7 +35mm Forged, so am I good to go?

I'd like to see a list of companies you feel make quality street wheels, just to get an idea of what you consider a "street" wheel.

I'm also curious if you're lumping all BBS wheels in with the "BBS Racing" wheels. I've had BBS wheels on my other car for ages now and they have held up amazingly well.

So my CCWs will bend on your roads? but they weigh 25lbs for a 17x10?

by your "weight" standards those 17" centerlines wouldn't put up to squat. So what makes you think their 15" version is worth anything? because the website said so?

so bc a specific BBS "race" wheel isn't meant for street use all light weight wheels don't pass your strict testing?


what makes a wheel a "racing" wheel? are AMERICAN RACING wheels RACING wheels because their name has RACING in it?

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Russelt3hPirate

by your "weight" standards those 17" centerlines wouldn't put up to squat.

Do you understand the difference between a 6061-T6 FORGING and a sand casting (e.g. A356)?

The Centerlines are FORGINGS (6061-T6). As such, they have a MUCH higher strength-to-weight ratio than cast wheels.

The forging is 1.5X as strong (35,000 PSI YIELD vs. 24,000 PSI YIELD for the casting).

In other words, the forged wheel could weigh roughly TWO-THIRDS that of its cast counterpart and still be just as strong.

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

The Centerlines are FORGINGS. As such, they have a MUCH higher strength to weight ratio.

Do you understand the difference between a 6061-T6 FORGING and a sand casting (e.g. A356)?

The forging is 1.5X as strong (35,000 PSI YIELD vs. 24,000 PSI YIELD for the casting).

In other words, the forged wheel could weigh roughly TWO-THIRDS that of its cast counterpart and still be just as strong.

Thus, a 14 pound FORGED 15" wheel is actually quite strong.

Yes I understand.

so my 9.9lb Forged wheels are going to break? any minute now?

Are my wheels considered racing wheels and have an inferior build to your centerlines?

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Russelt3hPirate

Yes I understand.

so my 9.9lb Forged wheels are going to break? any minute now?

Are my wheels considered racing wheels and have an inferior build to your centerlines?

I don't know nor do I care.

A 10 pound wheel - forged or not - is pushing the limits of durability on pothole filled streets - assuming the wheel isn't very narrow (e.g. 5" wide).

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

I don't know nor do I care.

A 10 pound wheel - forged or not - is pushing the limits of durability on pothole filled streets - assuming the wheel isn't very narrow (e.g. 5" wide).

sweet.

So what happens when you find out your 15" centerline weighs 11lbs?

[ChinoCharles]

I'm gonna go ahead and put this thread out of its misery.