Building a sub box, what is the boot size of a Yaris?

[FEINT]

I get my car in two days, in order for me to have a sub box built before I get the car arrives, I need to do it tomorrow. I am wondering, anybody got the dimensions of the boot? Width, height and length?

I am wanting to build a box the shape of a cube. I guess 13x13 then upwards to save boot space.

I need about 1.5cuft or 42L.

Thanks!

[goku87]

when you say "boot" size, are you talking about the trunk?

[FEINT]

Originally Posted by goku87

when you say "boot" size, are you talking about the trunk?

Yes, the trunk. Sorry.

[pennyracer]

you better get cracking . lets see the pictures when its done please

[FEINT]

Originally Posted by pennyracer

you better get cracking . lets see the pictures when its done please

I need the dimensions of the trunk so I don't build a box that won't fit in the trunk. I am hoping W 40cmx D40cmx36cm H would fit??? Dimensions please.



Will post pictures!

[pennyracer]

here is mine but i dont have the numbers for you !!!

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[CTScott]

Originally Posted by FEINT

I need the dimensions of the trunk so I don't build a box that won't fit in the trunk. I am hoping W 40cmx D40cmx36cm H would fit??? Dimensions please.



Will post pictures!

The flat area at the bottom is 50cm x 100 cm. The seat back and liftback taper, so there is about 35 cm between the seatback and the liftback. Also, the height to the rear glass is about 35cm.

Also, the rear seats lean back at about a 30 degree angle.

[FEINT]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The flat area at the bottom is 50cm x 100 cm. The seat back and liftback taper, so there is about 35 cm between the seatback and the liftback. Also, the height to the rear glass is about 35cm.

Also, the rear seats lean back at about a 30 degree angle.

Thank you so so much for that information! Lifesaver! That is what I needed!!!

[FEINT]

Originally Posted by pennyracer

here is mine but i dont have the numbers for you !!!

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Nice photos!! :) I will put mine up once complete. :)

[FEINT]

Finished the box today. I ordered a IDmax12, that is currently on the way, should get it next week.

[Spades]

nice! unfortunately for me, I have the sedan and there was no nifty compartment to stash a sub. granted, i am only untruding into about 4" of depth into my trunk because of the custom build, but i am envious of hatch owners and the "stealth" installs.

BTW, what product are you using for the box adhesive? if its a glue product, it might not be a bad idea to line the box with fiberglass resin or silicone overtop of the corners on the seals...glues can shrink and get air pockets...I used liquid nails for the adhesive on my box, but i resin'd the inside of it to ensure a airtight enclosure.

[FEINT]

Originally Posted by Spades

BTW, what product are you using for the box adhesive? if its a glue product, it might not be a bad idea to line the box with fiberglass resin or silicone overtop of the corners on the seals...glues can shrink and get air pockets...I used liquid nails for the adhesive on my box, but i resin'd the inside of it to ensure a airtight enclosure.

I am using a wood glue for the box adhesive. Previously when I have built boxes, I used liquid nails. But that wasn't in Japan. I can't seem to find liquid nails here. I don't think I can find resin either. But silicon shouldn't be an issue. I might just go over all the edges with silicon again.

Considering my previous sub was a Rainbow Hammer 12" at 350w RMS, and the new sub is a IDMax 12 at 1000w RMS, do you think the terminals are a weak point?

[goku87]

Originally Posted by FEINT

Considering my previous sub was a Rainbow Hammer 12" at 350w RMS, and the new sub is a IDMax 12 at 1000w RMS, do you think the terminals are a weak point?

Speaker terminals are such a small part of a setup that the size will almost always not pose a problem and materials used in construction are less than negligible (electrons really don't care about that extra .1 mm of gold plating). The ones you have will be fine.

[Spades]

Originally Posted by FEINT

I am using a wood glue for the box adhesive. Previously when I have built boxes, I used liquid nails. But that wasn't in Japan. I can't seem to find liquid nails here. I don't think I can find resin either. But silicon shouldn't be an issue. I might just go over all the edges with silicon again.

Considering my previous sub was a Rainbow Hammer 12" at 350w RMS, and the new sub is a IDMax 12 at 1000w RMS, do you think the terminals are a weak point?

no fiberglass or epoxy resin? how does that country survive without it,lol. but yeah, use a heafty helping of silicone...the goal is to also spread the load...joints are a weak point, if there is a gap in the adhesive, the subs will try to push air through that point, possibly causing leaks in the future. the nice thing about fiberglassing the box VS silicone or another sealer, is that the resin helps spread the pressure in the corners to the rest of the resin material, helping to ensure the joints dont allow air passage or get rattled apart.

also, fiberglass resin may not look pretty on the inside of the box, but it adds to the structural density, often helping the box have better over all sound quality, especially if using inferior materials.

either way, the box still looks good :)