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Old 08-03-2009, 09:05 PM   #1
Tamago
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lol, wow this thread was garbage from the get-go. bench racers should not be allowed to post what they read about another persons post about their buddy's friend's mom's mustang and pretend it's applicable here.

if the car can handle 75 more turbo horsepower, it should be able to handle 50 more nitrous horsepower (remember that nitrous and turbo power curves are backwards from each other. nitrous comes in hard, and tapers off, turbo comes in soft and ends much "stronger". this is why you should never spray your engine at low revs. your rods can't handle the shock load of 50 extra hp at 2000rpms)

and thanks to those who posted actual knowledge, not BS gleaned from watching youtube.
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I hate people like you (xbgod) because your the reason I don't come to this board. You spout nonsense and lies and people who don't know any better hold you in high regards because they can't tell the wheat from the chaff.
you nailed it sir.
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Old 08-03-2009, 09:49 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Tamago View Post
lol, wow this thread was garbage from the get-go. bench racers should not be allowed to post what they read about another persons post about their buddy's friend's mom's mustang and pretend it's applicable here.

if the car can handle 75 more turbo horsepower, it should be able to handle 50 more nitrous horsepower (remember that nitrous and turbo power curves are backwards from each other. nitrous comes in hard, and tapers off, turbo comes in soft and ends much "stronger". this is why you should never spray your engine at low revs. your rods can't handle the shock load of 50 extra hp at 2000rpms)

and thanks to those who posted actual knowledge, not BS gleaned from watching youtube.
^^ Word
I plan on doing first test runs with a .20 jet ie around 20hp just to make sure everything is working right then i'll step it up to either a .30=35hp or .32 =38/39hp@950psi bottle pressure . I have the nozzle about 6/7" away from the tb and the same distance from the maf . I'm at about $160 into my set-up right now , minus the nitrous fill up . I plan on getting a bottle warmer when I find one for cheap and a pressure gauge too . I'll post up dyno and or 1/8 mile numbers real soon , just need more cash lol
Btw my car/motor are under warrenty for 83,000 more miles and my dealer/service department guys are all really cool with my car/warrenty work(no questions asked and they dont care my car is modded) so no worrie's if I happen to ef' the motor up with too much n2o
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Old 08-04-2009, 01:49 AM   #3
CASTREX
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Remember to run premium fuel.
Perhaps some Lucas or Torco octane booster and 1 step colder plugs... all cheap upgrades that will help you prevent detonation. Especially on a dry shot.

Post some numbers and vids..!
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:38 AM   #4
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Remember to run premium fuel.
Perhaps some Lucas or Torco octane booster and 1 step colder plugs... all cheap upgrades that will help you prevent detonation. Especially on a dry shot.

Post some numbers and vids..!
I understand you'd want to run the colder plugs when using the nitrous to avoid detonation, but what's the effect of running one step colder the rest of the time?
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Old 08-05-2009, 06:45 PM   #5
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I understand you'd want to run the colder plugs when using the nitrous to avoid detonation, but what's the effect of running one step colder the rest of the time?
I think im gonna stay in the same heat range but go with either the zex plugs or e3 diamond fire plugs . From what i've read its not so much a wrong heat range plug causing detonation with nitrous as the spark plug grounding strap getting too hot and basically turning the spark plug to a glow plug .
http://www.zex.com/Pages/60/4%20and%...20Engines.aspx
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