RMS capabilities

[talnlnky]

Although you can install tons of amps in a car... realistically, due to the size & voltage of our alternators.... and the stock battery.... you are pretty much limited to about 1000-1300 watts. Anything higher than that and your car won't be able to sustain it for very long.... course... most music doesn't supply constant bass.. and that's where most of the power is eaten up.

to answer IllusionsX's question..... his buddy was running a Class A/B amp which is about 50% efficient... so... his 400 watt speaker amp really was pulling more like 800watts. The 200watt amp may have been Class A/B (50% efficiency) or maybe even a Class D (70-80% efficient).

Now days most people run subs off Class D amps because it saves a lot of power, and means you can get more rms before your electrical system becomes the bottleneck.

Upgrade the Big 3, and that'll help most people squeeze out a few hundred more watts

[IllusionX]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

Although you can install tons of amps in a car... realistically, due to the size & voltage of our alternators.... and the stock battery.... you are pretty much limited to about 1000-1300 watts. Anything higher than that and your car won't be able to sustain it for very long.... course... most music doesn't supply constant bass.. and that's where most of the power is eaten up.

to answer IllusionsX's question..... his buddy was running a Class A/B amp which is about 50% efficient... so... his 400 watt speaker amp really was pulling more like 800watts. The 200watt amp may have been Class A/B (50% efficiency) or maybe even a Class D (70-80% efficient).

Now days most people run subs off Class D amps because it saves a lot of power, and means you can get more rms before your electrical system becomes the bottleneck.

Upgrade the Big 3, and that'll help most people squeeze out a few hundred more watts

you are right about the AB class amps... but.. why would anyone sacrifice sound quality for more power? :) I would not go for a class D at any time soon lol

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by IllusionX

you are right about the AB class amps... but.. why would anyone sacrifice sound quality for more power? :) I would not go for a class D at any time soon lol

because they are only used for 250hz and down.... where its really hard to tell the difference between D & A/B.... the lower you go... the harder it is to hear. I personally never run sub amps crossed any higher than 60hz (when I had a decent component setup).

I doubt you could honestly tell the difference consistently between A/B & D in a blindfolded test.

I personally am all about efficient setups... I currently only own 2 A/B amps... but would do a D for my sub stage anyday.... if I planned on having a substage long term (my dream setup won't even use subs.... won't need them, my midbasses play a bigger range and better than a sub could).

[IllusionX]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

because they are only used for 250hz and down.... where its really hard to tell the difference between D & A/B.... the lower you go... the harder it is to hear. I personally never run sub amps crossed any higher than 60hz (when I had a decent component setup).

I doubt you could honestly tell the difference consistently between A/B & D in a blindfolded test.

I personally am all about efficient setups... I currently only own 2 A/B amps... but would do a D for my sub stage anyday.... if I planned on having a substage long term (my dream setup won't even use subs.... won't need them, my midbasses play a bigger range and better than a sub could).

you are right for the low frequency...but do you SERIOUSLY need 2500wRMS for subs ???

i personally only have a 4 channel AB class 50wRMS for my fronts and two 8" subs on the rear deck.

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by IllusionX

you are right for the low frequency...but do you SERIOUSLY need 2500wRMS for subs ???

i personally only have a 4 channel AB class 50wRMS for my fronts and two 8" subs on the rear deck.

I don't... but every D-bag 16-22yr old male on the streets seems to. I'm a huge proponent for high efficiency setups. I did the SPL comp setups when I was 18-22... I bought custom made alts, $160 bats, and 00awg cable.... Been there done that... its fun, and somewhat challenging, but for a daily ride its not much fun.

I have a very similar setup to yours currently... I run the dual 8's in the 1.2cuft ported @ 28hz box you see in my sig powered by an A/B amp bridged to get around 150rms. Then I run the front stock speakers (no rears) off the stock deck.

My planned system, when I get time, and access to a shop...
custom built 3 way components using an 8" midbass 4.5" mid and 1" tweet. The 8's would get 150rms each, the midrange and tweet would get 80rms per side. No subs.... so a grand total of 450watts of A/B power.

Honestly... most people will think there is a 10" sub and a few hundred watts hooked up.... I did this install in my mazda a few years back it it was amazing. Sounds like there is a sub hidden in the dash instead of in the back.