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#1 |
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I noticed that my rotors seem fine too, no lip or anything, at all, and it just amazes me.
But on a side note, I noticed the car does a lot of very heavy engine breaking. I do not understand why. Like I let go of the gas, and it really starts to slow down, even though its not revving high at all. I tested this on my dads new car, and it will go on almost forever stating +60MPG and barely slowly down. So what gives here with my Yaris? : ( |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2013 Chevy Spark 1LT 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,185
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Quote:
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Silver 2007 3Dr - Gryph Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
Posts: 310
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Quote:
Same thing with the Yaris: It has a LOT more engine braking power than a 1.5l mid-80's Civic, for example, because the mid-80's Civic never stops sputtering fuel in and exploding it, giving little nudges. Yaris? Same effect as turning off the engine whenever you're coasting with your foot off the gas pedal entirely.
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#4 |
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ive got 43k Miles on my stock brakes. 7 track days and never any brake issues. i have adjusted and cleaned the rears twice but still lots of friction material left front and rear and my rotors are now blue but still roll straight.
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#5 |
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boydstir
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hitting 56000 miles not ready for pads yet i think its due to fwy miles but its cool would have thaught i needed new pads by now im sure it right around the corner
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#6 |
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Audio Junky
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34k... I do a lot of engine braking so i'd be surprised if I need new pads before 70,000 miles. Hopefully I can make it to 100,000.
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#7 |
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If most of us, like me, are reporting almost like new brake pads, and rotors that don't have any lip and look/perform just fine, I won't be suprised if most of us make it to 120,000Miles being needing to change them out.
As for the rear drums and shoes, the shoes would most likely have to go before 70k. I think I noticed mine had cracks last time I checked, so I will look at them one more them in a week or two before it gets colder. |
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#8 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 346
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100K and mine need to be replaced.
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#9 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 Yaris Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Laval, Canada
Posts: 74
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i just replaced mine at 100 000KM but car sat for 5 months and the rotors were soooo rusted the pads were braking on 10% of the surface the calliper pins were sticking
i put 6$ worth of grease in them so it should be fine |
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#10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,238
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I'm at 131,000 and have original pads/rotors.
__________________
I live my life a quarter pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, I'm free. I need FRIES! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didn't blow the seam on your nugget box. There she is, 2 pounds of pure beef. My dad ate it in 9.0 seconds flat. Check it out, it's like this. If I lose, winner takes my happy meal. But if I win, I take the burger and the toy. To some people, that's more important. |
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#11 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 07 Toyota Yaris Hatch-Back Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cerritos, LA CA
Posts: 93
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I got like 70k on my HB and still got like 45-49% left on the front and the rear....i resurfaced the front rotor once and clean and readjust the rear...so far its good for me...
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#12 |
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Just passed 110,000 with original pads and rotors and still have a quite bit left (more than my wifes 2007 prius
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#13 |
![]() Drives: '09 Yaris 3dr HB 5sp Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: NE Pennsylvania
Posts: 17
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I have 115,000 miles on my 2009 HB and still have all the original brake components. I plan on doing a brake job in the near future though.
__________________
"Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience." |
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#14 |
![]() Drives: '07 Yaris LB Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 21
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i think the brake wear really depends on how you drive. obviously if you are in NYC and doing stop and go all the time, you will wear the brake/rotor much faster than someone like me who only drive on a highway. Pretty much no braking for me and I was on my original pad for like 100K. I only replaced mine was because firestone in my neighborhood had a $99 break job with a set of Wagner thermoquiet ceramic pads. Considering that a shop charged me $40 to cut the rotors on another car, I thought it was a decent price for not doing it myself.
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#15 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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I have a bit over 223k miles at the moment on my car and I had the brakes checked at 207,165 miles and at that point, each corner-----LF, RF, LR, RR, = worn 20%/80% remaining.
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#16 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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#17 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 346
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Of course. Their is always someone like this on every internet forum.
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#18 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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