Custom Turbokit

[changchewsoon]

Originally Posted by etheliters

How much boost you shooting for?I mean daily..

I'm thinking around 1.2-1.3 bar of boost for my daily drive. Hope thats not too much??

[Giupo]

Originally Posted by changchewsoon

Hi Giupo, yes I'm pretty sure they are 9.0 compression pistons as per stated in the invoice from CP. Well, unless CP is stating it as 9.0 compression and giving me something otherwise????

I noticed your pistons are deep dish design whereby mine is flat top design. Wonder what differences are they going to make?

By the way, I got my pistons skirt coated as well for 20 bucks extra.

A dep dish desingn is a low compression ..have you pistons specification?

more picture :

[changchewsoon]

My pistons are with my tuner now, I'll stop by to get the specification sheet from him tomorrow if possible.

This is what was printed in the invoice when I bought the pistons:

MEMO: DUP XTP-539P755 EXCEPT 9:1
CB-810C-4: CP CUST IMP 4-VR F/T#
CB-PF: PIN FIT PISTON
CB-708225015C1C: 4130 PIN:708x2.250x150/18MM-CHAMF
CB-SKIRTCOAT: TEFLON SKIRT COATING
CB-N2972: XC/GN RING SET:75.50mm/1-CYL
CR-B93725B-4: CRWR BILLET ROD:TOYOTA/SCION 1NZ-FE

I guess the F/T means the flat top design for the pistons?

[cali yaris]

ARP suggest that head studs are better than bolts in most cases. Here is the article:

ARP's factory Tech Representatives are often asked which is better, cylinder head studs or bolts. The answer, invariably, depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicles, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, it's probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car.

For most applications, however, studs are recommended. And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment.

Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being "twisted" while it's being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a "relaxed" mode - never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut.

If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run.

[hatchbackkid82]

http://hondaswap.com/turbo-informati...rbo-kit-81384/

I thought this might help for those that are looking into making their own turbo kit. I don't know how much of this is relevant to us but hope it helps.