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Old 02-12-2010, 11:34 AM   #19
talnlnky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
the 5w is the same, and that is the cold viscosity. I don't think you will
detect a bit of difference, or have any problem whatsoever either.
oh... i thought it was counter-intuitive ... and the other way around. I'll have to research that again.
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Old 02-12-2010, 11:50 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by talnlnky View Post
oh... i thought it was counter-intuitive ... and the other way around. I'll have to research that again.
well,

cold engine, you will see no different.

when hot, hot 20w will be thinner than 30w, and that may affect
mileage somewhat. But I doubt you'll be able to see a difference
on this little car.
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:27 PM   #21
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a few days after doing an oil change I decided to look under the car to make sure there were no leaks and discovered that outside of the oil pan was drenched with beads of water . This was from driving the car the evening before and the hot oil / metal meeting the very cold temps overnight . So I'd think there'd be moisture collecting inside the pan . This could lead to fuel dilution too . Thus , I'm sticking to the 5,000 mile oil change . Even though I use a synthetic . Got to think about warranty as well . Last , we a have a very steep hill of 2 miles to climb not long after leaving our home . Everyone has their reasons for using a synthetic . Plus I get synthetic for less than $3 a quart when on sale . Live and let live .

Fuel dilution is talking about gas and/or gas bi-products breaking down your oil. This could be determined if you ever do an IOA by Blackstone labs or some other. Then, depending on the findings you could formulate your own OCI's as needed. Problem being, as the engine ages, it needs to be re-evaluated as does the OCI. Other determining factors include how your driving habits or style may also change.

Oil changes are the cheapest insurance money can buy for your car....I say that sticking to every 6 months and/or 3-5K miles and you sould be good.
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Old 02-12-2010, 03:50 PM   #22
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am aware of fuel dilution . Long idling on cold mornings won't help that any . Thanks tho . Know of people that leave their cars idling for 1/2 an hour or more . That's nuts . Seen TOYO dealer(s) that do the same when getting car(s) ready for test drives or when removing snow from lot . Wouldn't think that be a good thing for a new motor .
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:05 PM   #23
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Even at the same rated viscosity, synthetic oil has better cold flow characteristics when compared with conventional oil.

My very first experience with synthetic oil was on my 1994 Z28 Camaro. It had some lifter noise on cold starts, but when I switched to Mobil 1, the noise was MUCH less, and it stopped much sooner than when I was using conventional oil.

I also went from 20 MPG to 21 MPG, and that is based on LOTS of data. I was in the habit of checking mileage on every fill up and recording the results.

No, I have not switched my Yaris to Mobil 1 and probably won't. I don't want to spend the extra money.

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Old 02-12-2010, 07:51 PM   #24
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Loren's car can be a great test bed. If he can go 15k with all his autocrossing, I think we can all safely do so.

What type of oil are you using, Loren?
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:20 PM   #25
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I was running either 0w20 or 5w20 Mobil 1 for the last 15k. I just changed it with 5w30 Mobil 1 Extended Mileage because it seemed like a good idea to go with the extended mileage mix, and WalMart didn't have it in anything lighter.

The oil that I drained out at 15k was very clean. Sort of an light orangish brown, still very translucent, not the icky black mess you'd expect if you ran dino oil for 15k.
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Old 02-13-2010, 12:48 PM   #26
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When I switched to synthetic Mobil 1 I didn't notice any gain in MPG but, I did notice engine was even quitier. I can hardly hear it on an idle
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:02 PM   #27
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well... car did well... hard to tell if the milage was any better... i forgot I'm rolling on new tires... and my milage seemed to have dropped slightly since I got the new tires (same size).

i've decided to say fuck it to the warranty and do changes every 9k, with filter changes every 4.5k.
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Old 02-17-2010, 01:57 AM   #28
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I use the Mobil 1 Synthitic in my cars and in normal driving,stop and go and highway driving the oil stays clean like new in color even at 6000 miles,my tC usually gets done every 6-7000 miles and the oil is always very clean,not burnt........

the yaris I change it every 5000-6000 as the oil seems to discolor sooner maybe smaller motor,heat,not sure why but I like to change them out once they get to looking like used oil.....

3-5000 miles on synthetic is a waste of money,high end oils like Royal purple can easily go 15000miles and still look and smell new.....but man it is spendy.
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:27 AM   #29
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Synthetic oil is the real deal. I worked on a circle track pit crew for a while. Some fellows running in a higher performance class ran Mobil 1 all the time, except break in. One race they were out front and lost oil pressure while leading with but a mile or so to go to the checkers. They ran a dry sumped small block chevy to 7500-8000 rpm.
After the win, they tore down the engine and everything look normal. The HP gains and protection are real.

My wife's vehicle has a GM 3400 V-6. It has a ECU drive maintence feature like the Yaris. I change the synthetic oil at its recommendation. I'm willing to bet it goes further than the standard oil. Nearly a year and 10k miles usually. It that light is OK for the general for warranty purposes, this will work.

I had a family member working on BMW and Mini. They have pretty long OCI because of the synthetic oil. All gasoline engines contaminat their own oil. Avoid short trips. Or else switch to CNG or LPG. They can go way longer between oil changes.
doc

I had my maintence light come on before 5k with the factory oil. I put a synth 5W-20 in. I can't wait to see when the car says to change it again.
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:10 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docB View Post
Synthetic oil is the real deal. I worked on a circle track pit crew for a while. Some fellows running in a higher performance class ran Mobil 1 all the time, except break in. One race they were out front and lost oil pressure while leading with but a mile or so to go to the checkers. They ran a dry sumped small block chevy to 7500-8000 rpm.
After the win, they tore down the engine and everything look normal. The HP gains and protection are real.

My wife's vehicle has a GM 3400 V-6. It has a ECU drive maintence feature like the Yaris. I change the synthetic oil at its recommendation. I'm willing to bet it goes further than the standard oil. Nearly a year and 10k miles usually. It that light is OK for the general for warranty purposes, this will work.

I had a family member working on BMW and Mini. They have pretty long OCI because of the synthetic oil. All gasoline engines contaminat their own oil. Avoid short trips. Or else switch to CNG or LPG. They can go way longer between oil changes.
doc

I had my maintence light come on before 5k with the factory oil. I put a synth 5W-20 in. I can't wait to see when the car says to change it again.
Pretty sure it'll come on [flash] in 4,500 miles, then stay on at 5k...it's not smart enough to adjust to driving habits, it just comes on at a preset interval.
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:34 PM   #31
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The oil that I drained out at 15k was very clean. Sort of an light orangish brown, still very translucent, not the icky black mess you'd expect if you ran dino oil for 15k.
I've changed out both mobil 1 and PP at 5-6k that is as black as sin.

Driving habits, weather, road conditions are all way too different for anyone to give any absolute oil change rule. Lots of jackrabbit driving in hilly areas will dirty up your oil much faster than a hypermiler in florida.
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