Beefing Up my Yaris

[Parmas]

4/5. The return line and pump are probably going to happen with this build and I may also use a fuel pressure regulator too.

Just noticed that I missed that you must upgrade your fuel rail to accept the return line.

[cali yaris]

^ I agree with almost all of that. I'm a confirmed Clutchmasters fan now, I've used both and it's just a better clutch.

[lilredrocket]

If your goal is only 130-140ish HP why not go stage 0? No intercooler and run a water/meth kit. You are probably only going to be running 5psi.

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by lilredrocket

If your goal is only 130-140ish HP why not go stage 0? No intercooler and run a water/meth kit. You are probably only going to be running 5psi.

A meth kit isn't cheap to buy and to install and you need to refill it when it's needed. An intercooler has no day to day to take care of and costs about the same compared to an average intercooler

[Loren]

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why, with the given goal of 130-140whp, you don't just go with a readily available and proven supercharger kit. You'll end up spending more on a custom turbo kit in the long run.

Expand your $2500 budget to $3000-3400 and you get a plug & play kit that meets your goals without trial and error.

If you want MORE power than that, then you need to go through the trials and tribulations of a custom turbo kit, fuel management, possibly forged internals, lower compression pistons, yadda yadda. But, if all you want is 130 hp...

[H3LlIoN]

Originally Posted by Loren

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why, with the given goal of 130-140whp, you don't just go with a readily available and proven supercharger kit.

A couple things regarding this....

First, the blitz will not put down a buck thirty by itself. "Turbo" magazine installed it and only got to 119hp. Link Here.

Secondly, there is very little upside to the blitz. If you want more boost, you first have to convert it to fixed pulley, instead of electronic, which is unproven ground as, to my knowledge, noone has done it. Then, you have to drop to lower comp pistons, since more boost on our factory 10.5:1 pistons will cause issues. Past that point, the s/c is capped at a (roughly) 9 to 10 psi on the housing before you leave the safe operating range.

At the very least, you would need to run s/c with additional bolt ons.

[cali yaris]

^ these are good points.

Meth kit is about $300, and a gallon will last for weeks, just to be clear.

I'm not saying its necessary, either. You'd have to tune for it, which means management.

I don't think it is needed for 130-140, probably can do that with a Stage 0 and no water/meth.

[cali yaris]

1. A BOV is not a must for a stage 0/1... there are plenty of stock turbo cars w/o them, however I may get one.

Right. On some STOCK cars, which is not what you are building.

Um, since you already got an intercooler (see #3 above), you are building a stage 1. Right?

Blowoff valves are used to prevent compressor surge, a phenomenon that readily occurs when lifting off the throttle of an unvented, turbocharged engine. When the throttle plate on a turbocharged engine closes, the high pressure air in the intake system is trapped by the throttle and a pressure wave is forced back into the compressor. The compressor wheel slows rapidly and may even stall, and the driver will notice a fluttering air sound. The rapid slowing or stalling stresses the turbo and imparts severe turbo lag if the driver accelerates immediately after the surge event.

[kou]

Just buy the hks turbokit for the xa/xb and modify the downpipe $2700

[PETERPOOP]

Originally Posted by kou

Just buy the hks turbokit for the xa/xb and modify the downpipe $2700

don't forget to tell him that noone has done this yet.

[RacerFreakXXX]

Originally Posted by PETERPOOP

don't forget to tell him that noone has done this yet.

I know no one has done this, not even the xb guys. I am better off with chinese turbo kit than I am a hks kit. I'm going to go with garms well built parts and get custom piping locally. Also, buying an engine is out. If I had a garage I would just buy a spare engine and build it and then swapp it, but I'm going to still consider it if I can find a place to do the swapp.

For EMS... I'm probably going to go with greddy, seeing as it has been proven.

In all honesty I am going to get a greddy RS BOV unless I cant fork up a coupple hundred dollars.

For turbo's, I think Garrett is going to be my best bet for the price. If I can find a new turbo for $400-$500 then maybe, but I doubt I will find a dual ball bearing water/ oil cooled T25 turbo for that much.

Garm if/ when you make a downpipe, you should have the option to put on a bung for a/f sensor.

[cali yaris]

My downpipe will have TWO bungs. One for managemenet, one for a gauge, and tuners love an extra bung for dyno day.

[RacerFreakXXX]

Nice... look at you thinking ahead, making life easier. I don't get why manufacturers make parts so expensive but they still need to be modded. I look forward to your kit... will you be making piping for a front mount intercooler?

[RacerFreakXXX]

what are your opinions on the 16g turbo? I was thinking something small like this:

http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/pro...cat=166&page=1

[rob323]

A Mitsi 16G turbo is a 300+ hp turbo (both small and big 16g's) and don't really start to get efficient until 17+psi. Waaaaaay too big for your application.
Even a standard 14b Mitsubishi Galant VR4 (DSM Talon/ Eclipse) turbo is a 200hp turbo and might be too large considering it's designed for engines with a capacity of 2litres. A TD04 off an auto version would be better suited but you would need to find one second hand and have it rebuilt just to be safe.

I can't think of any Mitsi turbo's that would be "ideal" for your application and would probably stick with a bb Garrett, or, dunno if you get them over there, one of the small IHI turbo's off a late '90s Subaru WRX, they were quite small and guys use them as big upgrades on Starlet GT's over here as they are plentiful and cheap.

[RacerFreakXXX]

I'm going with the perrin fuel rail, as listed in my first post. My main concern are the oil likes and vacume lines and all of that little stuff. Should I tap the oil pan or buy an aftermarket?

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by RacerFreakXXX

I'm going with the perrin fuel rail, as listed in my first post. My main concern are the oil likes and vacume lines and all of that little stuff. Should I tap the oil pan or buy an aftermarket?

Mine Turbo Oil Feed is tapped into the lower block.... just a few inch below the knock sensor position ( behind intake manifold )

[cali yaris]

We don't really have an oil pan, it's more of a plate; you would have to tap the lower block (like I did). Or get a deeper oil pan, but then you will have the worry of clearance issues when driving around.