Removal of the Factory Integrated Source

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

Excellent write up! The pictures answered some questions I had about the wiring harness on the back of the stock HU.

With my car 1/2 torn apart, I'm still toying with getting a small amp to power my new speakers. Since the wires coming from the back of the stock HU are pretty thin, will running the same gauge wires to an amp help me all that much? Even if I upgrade the wires to a lower gauge (smaller the number the thicker wire right?) from the back of the HU to an amp, I'm still starting out with thinner wire. So, would it be best to run thicker wire from the amp to the speakers? I read somewhere else here on Yaris World that I may need a 'line out converter' and an 'amp wiring kit', anything else?

Hopefully it's OK to ask these questions in this thread. At this time I am not replacing the HU which I know would simplify everything.

Thanks!

The speaker wires coming from an amp into into the speaker don't have to be thick to be good. Those wires carry a high voltage, low amperage signal.

Amperage is what causes heat issues in car audio, not high voltage. you could run a sub with 2000watts of power and 22awg wire and be perfectly fine and not see a decrease in volume (due to loss of power).

the power & ground cables however are high amperage low voltage, so they produce heat, and have to be big, or else you'll run into diminishing returns & even safety issues due to loss of power in the form of heat in the wire (which can start car fires).

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

The speaker wires coming from an amp into into the speaker don't have to be thick to be good. Those wires carry a high voltage, low amperage signal.

Amperage is what causes heat issues in car audio, not high voltage. you could run a sub with 2000watts of power and 22awg wire and be perfectly fine and not see a decrease in volume (due to loss of power).

the power & ground cables however are high amperage low voltage, so they produce heat, and have to be big, or else you'll run into diminishing returns & even safety issues due to loss of power in the form of heat in the wire (which can start car fires).

I sure don't want a car fire! I've been looking at some of the amp wiring kits at Crutchfield and Sonic Electronix and they all seem to come with heavy gauge power and ground leads. Plus they include decent size gauge wire from the amp to the speakers.

Also, from what I gather is that a line output converter would simplify connecting my stock HU to the amp, correct? Like this example from Scosche.

Thanks for the help!

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

Also, from what I gather is that a line output converter would simplify connecting my stock HU to the amp, correct? Like this example from Scosche.
Thanks for the help!

Yes, a LOC would do it, if you choose Scosche go to Walmart only $17

Sqcomps recommended me [I do too.] these:

MTX-re-Q for subwoofer only, but if you in the future want to add an amp for your speakers go for:
MTX Re-Q5

I'm going towards changing to a HU...

.