manual vs. automatic

[MadMax]

I have an auto with bigger tires, and still get 35 MPG out of it. I still shift a lot, and enjoy driving it as much as a manual; but the nicest thing is that you can let the transmission do all the work if you so desire. As I always say, you can always shift an auto but there is no way you can ever get a manual to shift for you!

However, manuals do tend to get slightly better gas mileage. It's just that you have to do so much more work when driving, something I like to term "manual labor" ; whereas with the auto driving is so much more refined and civilized...

Cheers! M2

[STC]

Originally Posted by osmoq

I ask because I was planning on getting a manual, but I'm looking at a specific automatic one

Hi osmoq,

You mentioned $14,000 for an automatic that a dealer will sell to you in the other Thread?

This seems about the going sale price, but I believe you can do better! Try to get it for $13,860 or under. If dealer asks for > $14,266... it is 'Over Priced'. Also, take in consideration 'dealer holdbacks'! This is why you can get it below $14,000. Note this is with the Convenience Package and my region (zip code).... it might be lower or higher in your locale...

Cheers!

[why?]

the scanguage is better than the ecometer. I can't remember the specifics, but i know there was someone on here who bought an ecometer and regretted it. it simply does not have all the features a scanguage does.

[Kal-El]

I wouldn't base your manual or auto buying decision on fuel efficiency.

Realistically, it is negligible for the Yaris. What really matters is how you drive and in what conditions.

Base you decision on other factors. Mainly, what do you prefer and enjoy to drive the most. Because that's what you have to live with. If you think driving a manual is a bit too much work but buy it because you might average 1-2 mpg more, than that's a mistake.

Go with the transmission you prefer, and drive conservatively.

[Yaris Hilton]

Originally Posted by Kal-El

Go with the transmission you prefer, and drive conservatively.

Right on.

[BailOut]

Originally Posted by Kal-El

Go with the transmission you prefer, and drive conservatively.

This is the best advice overall, but I feel that it's worth pointing out that of the four folks that consistently hit 50+ MPG tanks in the summer only one of them drives an auto. I'm not sure if this is because most fuel efficiency minded Yaris buyers migrate towards the manual, though.

[Hershey]

fills for both automatics got over 39 m.p.g..

[CKaelin]

Manual...) See sig.

[SpaceShot]

@STC

I am running 44psi, max sidewall rating in the tires, and have approx 33k miles on the Goodyear rubber. (I run snow tires on a separate set of rims, Dec 1 through Apr 1)

At dealer delivery the tires only had 28psi, and I put them to 32psi at the first fill up. About 2 months later I raised it to 40, and eventually settled on 44.

-----
The ecometer was not yet popular when I bought, so I went with the ScanGuage II.

You can get the ScanGuage for $155 if you look hard. I liked having the 4 readouts which I have set to display: Trip Mpg, Tach, Coolant Temp, and Throttle Position. Keeping the Tach around 2100 or the Throttle around 23, video game style, helps to make the Trip Mpg climb up.

The other advantage to the ScanGuage is that you can set a function to display most any engine condition it can clear some error codes.

[STC]

Originally Posted by SpaceShot

@STC

I am running 44psi, max sidewall rating in the tires, and have approx 33k miles on the Goodyear rubber. (I run snow tires on a separate set of rims, Dec 1 through Apr 1)

At dealer delivery the tires only had 28psi, and I put them to 32psi at the first fill up. About 2 months later I raised it to 40, and eventually settled on 44.

-----
The ecometer was not yet popular when I bought, so I went with the ScanGuage II.

You can get the ScanGuage for $155 if you look hard. I liked having the 4 readouts which I have set to display: Trip Mpg, Tach, Coolant Temp, and Throttle Position. Keeping the Tach around 2100 or the Throttle around 23, video game style, helps to make the Trip Mpg climb up.

The other advantage to the ScanGuage is that you can set a function to display most any engine condition it can clear some error codes.

Okay... I have to try a little higher on the tire pressure. SGII sounds better. The features are important to me, especially the 'Coolant Temp'. I don't care for how the Yaris temp is set up! I would assume then SGII plugs into the OBD port then?

[hyprmiler]

yes it goes directly into the OBDII port which is located under your steering column and to the left (by the engine hood release)

I love my ScangaugeII, but in reality it is a bit over hyped in my opinion.

It DID however save me some $$$ when I needed to scan 3 cars with check engine lights (none of which were the Yaris).

Just a fancy toy in my opinion... not worth the price, but nice none the less.

[Hershey]

run 35 p.s.i..

[jhsouders]

I got my scangauge II for only $120 on ebay brand new, never opened.

[KrazyDawg]

On an automatic, with max psi 44 and a 130 mile round daily commute, I'm averaging 35-36 MPG. Note: My commute to work uses a different route than the route on the way back to avoid paying toll twice. The best I've had is 38 MPG and that was by doing 60 MPH on the 70 mile one-way and about 70 MPH on the 60 mile return trip home. I don't have a ScanGauge.

[STC]

Originally Posted by KrazyDawg

On an automatic, with max psi 44 and a 130 mile round daily commute, I'm averaging 35-36 MPG. Note: My commute to work uses a different route than the route on the way back to avoid paying toll twice. The best I've had is 38 MPG and that was by doing 60 MPH on the 70 mile one-way and about 70 MPH on the 60 mile return trip home. I don't have a ScanGauge.

That is not too bad...

You will see a noticeable difference if you bring your speed down to 50 - 52 MPH. I try to keep my tach at around 2,000 - 2,100 RPM while driving. Manual shifts are at the 1,900 - 2,200 range.

If driving an auto... feather the gas pedal... accelerate really slow. Be aware of your surroundings well ahead of you. Coast to stop lights once you see it far ahead of you turn red. Take off very slow...

Use glides as much as possible when in gear (DFCO gliding) on hills or mountain long grades. I find hilly and mountain terrain to be better for FE then flat terrain.

Most of all stay consistent. Listen to your engine. Driving technique is everything in maximizing your FE...

Cheers!

[KrazyDawg]

Originally Posted by STC

That is not too bad...

You will see a noticeable difference if you bring your speed down to 50 - 52 MPH. I try to keep my tach at around 2,000 - 2,100 RPM while driving. Manual shifts are at the 1,900 - 2,200 range.

If driving an auto... feather the gas pedal... accelerate really slow. Be aware of your surroundings well ahead of you. Coast to stop lights once you see it far ahead of you turn red. Take off very slow...

Use glides as much as possible when in gear (DFCO gliding) on hills or mountain long grades. I find hilly and mountain terrain to be better for FE then flat terrain.

Most of all stay consistent. Listen to your engine. Driving technique is everything in maximizing your FE...

Cheers!

Does the manual come with a tach? My auto doesn't have one but the Yaris seems to shift quietly, so it's not as easy to notice when the gears shift. On my Civic, 2nd gear was around 15 MPH, 3rd gear at 25 MPH, and 4th gear somewhere around 45-50 depending on how pressure I apply on the pedal.

Going from an old Civic to a Yaris, I noticed the gas pedal was more sensitive (in all new cars) in general. My commute is rather hilly.

[STC]

Originally Posted by KrazyDawg

Does the manual come with a tach? My auto doesn't have one but the Yaris seems to shift quietly, so it's not as easy to notice when the gears shift. On my Civic, 2nd gear was around 15 MPH, 3rd gear at 25 MPH, and 4th gear somewhere around 45-50 depending on how pressure I apply on the pedal.

Going from an old Civic to a Yaris, I noticed the gas pedal was more sensitive (in all new cars) in general. My commute is rather hilly.

My manual came with a tach! Probably an option with the package I bought? The other car on the lot was a base manual with no tach.

I shift in 3rd at around 23-25, 4th about 30-35, and 5th (cruising) about 38-40 :-) I generally keep my manual shifts at just under 2,000 RPM with hills and ramps slightly higher...

Cheers!

[sickpuppy1]

Originally Posted by KrazyDawg

On an automatic, with max psi 44 and a 130 mile round daily commute, I'm averaging 35-36 MPG. Note: My commute to work uses a different route than the route on the way back to avoid paying toll twice. The best I've had is 38 MPG and that was by doing 60 MPH on the 70 mile one-way and about 70 MPH on the 60 mile return trip home. I don't have a ScanGauge.

Interesting, because my 2010 sedan does 38+ normally, 75 highway 25% city. I have got one tank at 40 and one at 41.4 mpg. Have my tires at 40 and I do 70-75 on the way to and from work. Heck, last weekend I went to a concert in St Louis and was running late. Did avg 80mph with the AC on and still did 38.8 for the trip there, around town driving while there and back to Columbia, Mo before I filled up. The rest of the trip home was around 75 and all week to and from work and that was my 41.4 tank. One thing I do notice is this car like Quick Trip gas much better than Philips 66. I mean a noticeable difference in mileage. 2-3 mpg! I had to gas up at Phillips in town this weekend and the gauge is 2 bars down at 120 miles which is not cool and I had one tank at 35mpg which was also Phillips. My Civic was just the opposite, it did better on Phillips than QT. Weird stuff......