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Old 10-01-2010, 02:56 PM   #1
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But the shafts need changed too. I heard they are as thin as a pencil!
Other than "that's what she said", what do you refer to as a "shaft"?
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Old 10-01-2010, 02:44 PM   #2
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Just ordered 255lph fuel pump to help with my lean problem.
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:20 PM   #3
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:27 PM   #4
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cams? thin? I thought we were talking about rods and pistons.
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Old 10-01-2010, 05:27 PM   #5
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Dont remember who but someone said the camshafts were like pencils.

I dunno....
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Old 10-01-2010, 05:54 PM   #6
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You are confusing what I said to you about the rods. They are like pencils, not the cams....
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:05 PM   #7
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You know me carlos!

I do confuse myself sometimes hahaha.
Cant wait to see your finished ride pimpyaris!
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:26 PM   #8
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Dumb? But do u have to pull the engine to replace rods and pistons?

Dont kill me guys!
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:11 PM   #9
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:05 PM   #10
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Thanks, carlos.

I figured that but it never hurts to ask (even though my ego took a hit lol).
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:30 PM   #11
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sleey0 when you going to get your turbo kit together
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:11 AM   #12
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Has anyone installed a 255lph fuel pump in the stock pick up assem.? It will obviously need some modification as the larger pump is about an inch longer. So how did U guys install your bomba de gasolina? And a picture would be worth a thousand words.
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:57 AM   #13
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Has anyone installed a 255lph fuel pump in the stock pick up assem.? It will obviously need some modification as the larger pump is about an inch longer. So how did U guys install your bomba de gasolina? And a picture would be worth a thousand words.
ok i went throught that experience.. i had a shop do this for me cuz wen i came to fuel i didnt want to blow up lolll.. what they did was easy.. the litterally shaved off the fuel filter to disconnect the stock regulator... after that they splited up the line goin to the engine.."T" ok so you have a 3 way splitter right on one end the walbro at the opposite end the line going to the canister leading to the engine.. and on the other side left the fuel regulator ..that did 188WHP @8psi for me with stock internals and returnless fuel system...
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:52 PM   #14
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ok i went throught that experience.. i had a shop do this for me cuz wen i came to fuel i didnt want to blow up lolll.. what they did was easy.. the litterally shaved off the fuel filter to disconnect the stock regulator... after that they splited up the line goin to the engine.."T" ok so you have a 3 way splitter right on one end the walbro at the opposite end the line going to the canister leading to the engine.. and on the other side left the fuel regulator ..that did 188WHP @8psi for me with stock internals and returnless fuel system...
Thanks for the tip. I didnt think of that.
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Old 11-04-2010, 04:51 AM   #15
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Thanks for the tip. I didnt think of that.
no prob believe me i've been through ALOOOTT i haven't even read here... just so you know i turbocharged my sedan BY MYSELF so i made ALOT of noobie mistakes like not connecting the blow-off valve to vacumm just boost but now i took out my motor and reaaallyyy build it by myself with forged internals after 2 weeks trying i cranked it up yesterday now to set the idle rpm and the break-in period and then dynoooo!!! loll

ok.. back to you... about the lil oil problem yes i bought 3 cheap turbos and they leaked a lot but it was another problem.. but doing my research, talking to ppl.. i found out a great way to eliminate that... i dont know if youll understand but it is an "oil-restrictor" have you seen a NOS jet (yes, nitrous)?? i bought a nos jet adapter 1/8 npt and bought a i think it was a 45cc jet i don really remember and that lowers the volume and oil pressure going through the turbocharger thus not pushing oil to the sides thus leaking to your hot side of the turbocharger.... you just install the adapter on either end of the oil feed line.....in other words going from a burger king straw to a chinese rest. straw looolll......let me know if you understood...
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:57 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Dj WaRrIoR View Post
no prob believe me i've been through ALOOOTT i haven't even read here... just so you know i turbocharged my sedan BY MYSELF so i made ALOT of noobie mistakes like not connecting the blow-off valve to vacumm just boost but now i took out my motor and reaaallyyy build it by myself with forged internals after 2 weeks trying i cranked it up yesterday now to set the idle rpm and the break-in period and then dynoooo!!! loll

ok.. back to you... about the lil oil problem yes i bought 3 cheap turbos and they leaked a lot but it was another problem.. but doing my research, talking to ppl.. i found out a great way to eliminate that... i dont know if youll understand but it is an "oil-restrictor" have you seen a NOS jet (yes, nitrous)?? i bought a nos jet adapter 1/8 npt and bought a i think it was a 45cc jet i don really remember and that lowers the volume and oil pressure going through the turbocharger thus not pushing oil to the sides thus leaking to your hot side of the turbocharger.... you just install the adapter on either end of the oil feed line.....in other words going from a burger king straw to a chinese rest. straw looolll......let me know if you understood...
I have a 1.5mm oil restrictor on my feed line. This was recomended for a journal bearing turbo. Ball bearing turbos use 1.0mm restrictor. So I know thats not my problem. I am sure the oil seal on the hot side is leaking oil into the exhaust. I am just debating if I should buy another GT25 nock off like I have now for 240$ and take my chances. Or buy a Garret gt2554r genuine artical for 1000$. Oh ya did I mention I'm poor and for me 1000$ is a lot of FLOW!
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Old 10-10-2010, 10:44 PM   #17
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So I guess no one had any tips or sugestions, so I figured it out for myself. I installed my 255lph fuel pump and got it sealed with new larger sized O-rings into the factory [in tank fuel filter and regulator assem]. I took some pictures along the way. It worked well for about three miles. Unfortunatly I did not buy the name brand Walbro fuel pump. I think I got a Chinese nock off. As soon as it got warm the car would not go over 3K rpm. Then about a mile later it failed completely. I waited 10min and it started again and I barley made it home. Then I swaped back the the factory pump. I will need to order the Walbro pump soon.

I also put a TRD TURBO sticker and a cartoon turbo face sticker on the back for fun. That way when I kick some ass the looser will know why. I showed them to a Audi A8 today after a short stop light gruge match. I also continue to work on tuning with the AEM FIC.

I had a problem with idle quality and sometimes going lean at idle and dying out after driving on the highway for a long time. I watched my air fuel and noticed my factory O2S was very slow to switch when it was hot at idle. I think it may be fried. I disconnected the factory O2 connector and I was still very lean at idle. I then richened the AF with the FIC at lower RPM. Now that the car is in open loop all the time with the O2 dissconnected it is not trying to correct my adjustments. Now I idle at 13.5 to 14:1 AFR instead of 14.7 to 17:1. Of coarse this should be done with the FIC altering the factory O2 signal. But atleast for now she is runing like a dream. I also richened up the mixture under boost as well to around 11.5:1. It runs so much better in open loop and a little richer. And I also feel safer about getting on the gas. I still avoid the very high rpm until I get some larger injectors.
Did I mention how much fun this car is to drive now
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Old 10-10-2010, 10:46 PM   #18
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