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#109 |
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C'est la vie
Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 482
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I also had to removed all the plastic crap as well. I also had to trim some sheet metal off the core support to get my pipes to fit on my intercooler and mount it straight. I used pneumatic scroll saw to do this quickly. But U could mabe use a electric sawzall too. The most important part is if you get frustrated just walk away and have a beer. It always brings on a good idea.
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#110 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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So I just went outside to check my car. The stupid tarp collapsed and water got all over the manifold. It looks TERRIBLE. Like rust tbh, I'm hoping it's just the heat-resistant paint reacting? Thoughts?
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#111 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 899
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How could it rust overnight?
Highly doubtful. |
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#112 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Exactly as I thought, but the iron cast appears to becoming iron oxide. I don't think it's an issue at the moment, but I'm worried it'll spread. I was thinking about it too and it would probably get like this anyway once the exhaust is run through it for long enough. I'll post a picture later.
Unbelievably, one of my flange nuts snapped as well. It's still threaded for the most part, so I'm probably going to leave it and loosen all the others slightly. Clearly today was a bad day to work on it, so I canned it for now.
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#113 |
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Bathroom + Laptop = <3
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Yeah man today was a bad day to wrench in New England, rain sucked. went to harbor freight thats 10 miles down the road, legit took 4 hours to get everything and get out, and i still didn't get this dirtbike were playing with started.
Anyways, it may oxidize a bit, but you will be fine as long as nothing got into the engine itself that is. There will always be moisture back there somehow sometimes someway so it is bound to happen wether you put water on it or not unless you coat it with ceramic coating. Have you ever seen a manifold stay perfect looking?
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#114 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Day 4
Alright guys, I'm so close... But I'm soooo beat. EVERYTHING is installed. At this point I'm waiting for the sealant on the Zage oil pan to dry so I can put my oil back in. Yeah, I decided to use it afterall. To start, here's a picture of the cast iron rusting ![]() Started the day off trying to mount the intercooler. Whipped up these brackets. ![]() Couldn't drill through the bumper support, so I gave up for the time being. That steel is THICK. Started working on the oil feed and return. ![]() ![]() I got the pan off, then for whatever reason decided to use the Zage oil pan afterall. The comments I made about it's design still stand, and I pray it works. Firstly, here's some pictures of it. ![]() ![]() But instead of just putting it on, I brainstormed how to guarantee there wouldn't be an problems. I basically did two things that will hopefully allow gravity to constantly return oil. I made sure the elbow angle didn't go any lower than what's seen here. ![]() Then I made a cut in the engine block to allow for a slightly more diagonal orientation of the return line, other than the horizontal way the line would have ran. ![]() ![]() I poured some oil in after the pan was installed, but it leaked everywhere. I used silicon sealant to seal all bolts and the edges of the pan. Oh and a quick aside, here's one of the impossible to reach manifold bolts. ![]() I finally was able to get an open wrench on it (barely) to get it somewhat tight. There was no way it was happening from the top of the car. Ok so once the pan was done I worked on installing the bypass line for the BOV. ![]() That was easy peesy. The coolant lines sucked (and so do these pictures). ![]() ![]() ![]() Installed the air filter and MAF last. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Reinstalled AC lines so they're not just floating around. Also, here's a picture of my sweet zip tie hanger for the O2 sensor wires. ![]() Finished the day off by pulling the spark plugs and EFI fuse. ![]() ![]() So weather permitting, tuning day will either be tomorrow or Wednesday. Assuming there's no leaks when I re-add the oil, I'll crank the starter and look for oil leaks in pressurized areas. Then I'll pull the oil return real quick to make sure oil is present. Finally I'll start the engine and look for any and all air leaks (plan to get a video of that moment ).
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#115 |
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Bathroom + Laptop = <3
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methinks you might end up melting that O2 sensor cable if its not wrapped in something. Other than that, good post! can't wait to see more.
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#116 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Quote:
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#117 |
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C'est la vie
Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 482
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Cant wait to hear how it drives.
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#118 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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I can't wait to SEE how it drives.
I'm ready to start the car / crank the engine, but I'm currently doing battle with Zage's pan. This thing sucks. It's barely leaking at the moment from the side of the pan where the two nuts go on, but they don't fit on the Zage pan. Even after doing some drilling to try to get them to thread the stems I've had no luck. Waiting for my silicon + JB Weld to dry and see if I finally have a seal, after having to take it off again earlier. |
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#119 | |
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Only Happy When it Rains
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Quote:
__________________
Colin Chapman disciple |
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#120 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Quote:
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#121 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Quote:
Quote:
IF I ever get to that part... Just poured in some oil and guess what LEAKS Here's a quick time line of emotions: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() then of course: ![]() I sealed the whole inside edge of the pan this time, so I honestly don't know what to do. I drained the oil again and put some more sealant on the outside edge of the pan. This is exactly how things went last time. I fought a losing battle against leaks... I guess this time I'll be sure I give the silicon plenty of time to atleast tack? ![]() Anyways, I've run out of things to do. Here's all that was left to do today (I can't reach the turbo / manifold with heat wrap while the car is raised). ![]() ![]() So... yeah. I was originally going to do the oil feed and return first. I'm glad I didn't, because this whole situation is VERY discouraging. |
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#122 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 BB LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Maiden, NC
Posts: 785
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This maybe a stupid question, but was the surface being sealed clean before you put the pan on? Seen a few people try to put new oil pans on with out taking old gasket material off the surface before. Not saying your dumb just posing the question.
__________________
Too much of car culture is people taking things too seriously and not enjoying it for what it is. |
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#123 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Quote:
It's so frustrating to be stuck because of a minor leak that I simply can't plug... |
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#124 |
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Bathroom + Laptop = <3
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What kind of sealant are you using.
Take some pics of the area that is bad and how bad the holes are not lined up, maybe we can think of something to help you out. I've only used JB Weld once on my car is when the mounting hole on my charge pipe came off -_- |
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#125 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: car Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: location
Posts: 1,033
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giant zip ties on the intercooler is DEFINITELY ftw
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#126 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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