Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[derickveliz2]

Help/advice Matching amp to subwoofer...

I'm having trouble understanding about Ohms, # of voice coils, etc. Matching Amp to sub-woofer seems to be very important...

So what if I get a Pioneer Digital Series Class D Monoblock amp! what would be a good SQ 12" or 15" subwoofer to match this amp? Or is this a good amp to hook up 1 of my old Solo-Barics? ["single voice-coil sub", 8ohm]

LINK to amp specs



GM Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 1200 watts x 1 chan.
MOSFET power supply
Wired remote bass level control included
Variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz)
Balanced isolator input circuit
Speaker-level inputs with included high-level to RCA adapter
Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink
Chrome-plated RCA level inputs
Chrome-plated screw terminals
Variable low-pass filter (40-240 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Frequency response: 10-240 Hz
Dimensions: 11-3/8"L x 7-7/8"W x 2-1/4"H

I appreciate every single input... thanks

[Palmer812]

That amp needs to be at 2ohm for 600 watts so the ideal solution would be a sub with either a single 2 ohm voice coil or dual 4 ohm voice coils. Either way would give you 2 ohms. You could also run it at 4 ohm but you will only get 1/2 the power you get at 2 ohms. If you wanted to use your Kicker subs you can hook 2 of them up and get 300 watts (150 each) or hook all 3 up and get roughly 500 watts (166 watts each roughly).

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Palmer812

That amp needs to be at 2ohm for 600 watts so the ideal solution would be a sub with either a single 2 ohm voice coil or dual 4 ohm voice coils. Either way would give you 2 ohms.

In other words, this would be the perfect woofer ...

12" Dual 4 ohm Type R Subwoofer
Power Handling:
Peak: 1800 watts
RMS: 600 watts

LINK

[Herbicidal]

I've got the 10" version of that puppy (thanks to Alien Mantis's suggestion on my build thread) and I'm VERY happy with it!

[Palmer812]

That would be a great choice. Do you have any local shops that sell Alpine? I would match that price all day long and if you blew it up you could exchange it over the counter.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Palmer812

That would be a great choice. Do you have any local shops that sell Alpine? I would match that price all day long and if you blew it up you could exchange it over the counter.

So I'm playing with the right numbers? that is a Dual 4 ohm 600 watts RMS.

Is this what we/them call to Match your amp with the subwoofer?

Thanks
Derick

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

I've got the 10" version of that puppy (thanks to Alien Mantis's suggestion on my build thread) and I'm VERY happy with it!

Thanks Herb, yes I do remember your set up, I was hoping to get a feed back from you too!

Derick

[Alien Mantis]

You know I like those Alpine Type-R subs. Best sub you can get for the money.

Get one, and you too will be a fan.



I would run it in a ported box for max output.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...k+Carpet-.html

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Alien Mantis

You know I like those Alpine Type-R subs. Best sub you can get for the money.

Get one, and you too will be a fan.



I would run it in a ported box for max output.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...k+Carpet-.html

I found an audio shop not too far away from me that sells Alpine woofers, lets see what they say?

Would a sealed box work better towards SQ? (also smaller & lighter, though)

Thanks
Derick

[Palmer812]

Yes a sealed box would be smaller and lighter. If you are going to buy a pre-fab box I would go sealed. You have more room for error on a sealed box. A ported box can be great for sq but you have to build it right. The port needs to be a specific length and size. Pre-fab ported boxes will not be tuned right for your sub unless you can find one made especially for that sub. If you are going to build your own I would consider ported. That ported box from Sonic is only $35 but I typed in my zip code and shipping was $35 also. We sell boxes just like that for $59 at full retail.

[Alien Mantis]

Palmer is correct.

Funny thing though...
When I got my 10" Alpine Type-R sub, I checked those prefab ported boxes Sonic sells, and they were right on the numbers.
Port size and length, and overall volume was exactly what Alpine recommended in their spec sheet.
So I took a chance and ordered a box.
When I ordered mine, it was $30 with FREE shipping to my address.
That was for the single 10" ported box, not the 12" one.

I see they were out-of-stock on the 12" ported box when I checked the other day. I know those things are popular.
And I'll bet if you checked the specs, it would be very close to what that sub likes.

If the price is the same, you might as well have Palmer hook you up with the box.

A sealed box is better for pure SQ, but the correct ported box will be accurate too, and louder.
Since you are running mid-bass drivers, you can totally afford to run your 12" sub in a ported box.
Another benefit of a ported box is, you don't need as much AMP to push it hard.

The only way for you to be 100% sure is to listen to BOTH setups, and then decide what you like best.
This is where a local audio shop is nice.
They will let you test out different sub/box setups to see which one you like best, and which setup responds best to your amp.
You get to TRY before you BUY.

You don't get that from SonicElectronix.
You basically have to LOOK at stuff, study the specs, read the user reviews, and then make an educated GUESS.
Sometimes you get lucky. Sometimes you need to send stuff back and try again.
You can CALL Sonic and talk to their people, and they will do their best to steer you in the right direction, if you need some professional advice.
They know what works, and what doesn't.

Every customer is different.
Some people are picky, some people are happy with low-end stuff.
It all depends on the needs of the customer.

[sqcomp]

Responding to AM's thoughts on the different enclosures...

He's absolutely right. You can absolutely get good sound out of both. I should PROBABLY be using a vented enclosure on my sub with the amount of power I have. Instead I'm keeping it sealed. Hell, I'm even looking at an 18" woofer. Maybe around Christmas I might do another enclosure...

[Alien Mantis]

I knew an audiophile guy who was a recording engineer.

He always said, "there is life below 40hz"

( maybe for HIM )

[sqcomp]

Oh hell, I cross my mid bass at 40 Hz...I can definitely say that there is life below 40Hz

[derickveliz2]

Thanks everybody, lets see what happens at the shop, they call me and I'm going to stop by this week.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Oh hell, I cross my mid bass at 40 Hz...I can definitely say that there is life below 40Hz

Me too! but at 63 Hz... I know your L8s must sound amazing I only have cheap 6.5 drivers even though the midbass is great (I never realized about it, but I've been missing this frequency in my old installs that all songs sound so different now)

and WOW! I've been learning so much about mid bass that I understand now when you say that it's so important for a good sound system.

with some songs I mute the subwoofer and I can't tell the difference, then I mute the midbass and turn on the sub again and sounds like crap! the mid bass does all the job!

last but most important... Sqcomp! I'm going to give up! you are absolutely right, go with kick panels on the floor for midbass drivers, my doors are driving me crazy, I tend to rest my left arm and knee on the door panel and buzzes so much (no rattles, just vibrations) so I'm going to make some small kickpanels.

I got some used 6.5 drivers (not high end, I can't remember the brand and specs) but hopefully one day I'm going to be able to afford HAT L6's ( I think they go for $500-$600) for now I'm going to experiment with these little 6.5 woofers in kickpanels.

Man! this is like "THE NEVER ENDING STORRY" just like you thinking about an 18 in sub for Christmas.!

Thanks again guys! all your input helps me gain knowledge and correct my mistakes I hope helps others to understand how everything works.

[Alien Mantis]

Yeah, this is turning into a soap opera.

Or worse.... a reality TV show without the TV!

[sqcomp]

Absolutely experiment. I did a bit of planning when it came to door panels versus kicks. What you trade is space versus performance. I'd rather have performance.

I've taken apart the door panels multiple times. With some work you can quiet them down.

You're tending to lean on the silver door control panel/insert piece or the top of the door sill aren't you?