Sleey0's Turbo Projec! - Page 5 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Nexus1155 · 10-06-2010, 08:10 PM

Where do you order from that lets you keep cancelling!

Remember, you are going to lose most fluids when doing an engine pull. You really should not have to pull the engine just to do a turbo kit, but if you do, remember to stock up on oil coolant power steering fluid and brake fluid.

You also might not want to pull engine depending on wall clearance, might make it harder to get back in.

sleey0 · 10-06-2010, 08:34 PM

Well, oif course I aint't pulling that small bastard to just pu the kit on.

I am getting CP 75mm pistons and Crower rods.

Nexus1155 · 10-06-2010, 08:37 PM

Still think it would be easier just to remove the head alone and not risk things/fluids too. Also make sure you get some head studs. You cannot reuse stock head studs, most of them now a days are all stretch bolts and thats a no no on reuseability. Same with flywheel bolts.

sleey0 · 10-06-2010, 08:43 PM

Where can I get 1NZFE head studs?

Nexus1155 · 10-06-2010, 09:01 PM

Garm got them custom, but Toyota has them for sure i bet at like $5 per stud. Also another way to lower your compression to push more boost is to get a thicker head gasket. I don't know how much your pistons will lower them, but the headgasket is good for another .5 of a drop

Morgan · 10-06-2010, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Used for power or to stave off detonation? Gimme numbers pleeeeease

How long have you been running the SC and meth?

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

She did, and it cured detonation problems. Meth injection can be used for more mild purposes, guys, not just big power.

I had a Blitz supercharger and the AEM progressive water/meth set up (the one you have pictured). Worked nicely. I mounted the tank to the back of the "40" seat (of the 60/40 rear bench) in the hatch. The regular washer take is 1.1 qts and you'll burn through that quickly enough. Run the lines through the car, they aren't under pressure until after they pass through the pump.

Since I live in Florida and I installed the kit in May of last year, it was hot, well over 95+ most summer days and the methanol kit was to help with pre-detonation. Yes, you can run 100% methanol or yes, you can run 100% water. I never noticed a huge difference, usually I ran tap water with about 30% by volume of methanol.

If you choose to run straight methanol, it can be very expensive for not a lot of return in power - just save yourself the money, the real power is not found (for this car) in adding water/methanol injection. But it is a lot safer to run in hot weather ESPECIALLY since I didn't have an intercooler.

Cooler intake temperatures are never a bad thing.

Good luck, read my archaic posts if you feel like you'd like to waste 20 mins on my ramblings.... or just PM me

ps I knew from the get go that I was going to have water/meth, so I installed it simultaneously with the supercharger... it is a very nice kit, well worth the $400 - just make sure you get refrigerator tubing for the lines from the tank to pump and pump to injector, the ones in the kit are very thin and will break if you run anything higher than a 30% mixture

PETERPOOP · 10-06-2010, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morgan

If you choose to run straight methanol, it can be very expensive for not a lot of return in power - just save yourself the money, the real power is not found (for this car) in adding water/methanol injection. But it is a lot safer to run in hot weather ESPECIALLY since I didn't have an intercooler.

Not true. The meth actually lasts quite awhile. Depends on how you drive of course. Since I am maxing out at about 8-9lbs of boost, i have my meth kick in at 2lbs of boost. I also buy HEET to use as my meth, and it's only a couple bucks a bottle at WAL-MART. Takes about maybe 8-9 bottles to fill the entire meth kit? A full tank of meth can last me about a month with my driving. However, I don't street race and go into boost every chance I get....

ps: I wouldn't have even gotten the meth kit if i wasn't going to tune with it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morgan

make sure you get refrigerator tubing for the lines from the tank to pump and pump to injector, the ones in the kit are very thin and will break if you run anything higher than a 30% mixture

Not true. I am running 99.9999% meth and my stock hose lines haven't broke....

cali yaris · 10-07-2010, 01:07 AM

Quote:

make sure you get refrigerator tubing for the lines from the tank to pump and pump to injector, the ones in the kit are very thin and will break if you run anything higher than a 30% mixture

I run 50/50, and I will also disagree with this.

Where exactly did the 30% come from?

cali yaris · 10-07-2010, 01:10 AM

Quote:

He says it will take about 1 hour to get the engine out and about 2-3 hours to install pistons/rods and anothe hour to put it back

That would be the fastest swap I've ever seen. I will keep my healthy skepticism on this detail.

cali yaris · 10-07-2010, 01:11 AM

Quote:

I am getting CP 75mm pistons and Crower rods.

What compression? If not stock, I'm guessing you'll be in trouble with the ECU and a piggyback.

xbgod · 10-07-2010, 04:00 AM

Your engine builder is full of shit, will take a few hours to pull the motor correctly. And if your gonna do some piston changes that change compression and or CC you may have some trouble with that piggy back ECU.

Your engine builder is working in dream land and your in for a wake-up call on this whole thing.

My self and Garm got more time under the hood of these cars than your engine builder probably has in his whole career.

Your whole situation is unrealistic and there is a world of issues headed your way.

A few hours to put new pistons and rods in.

Not if you have file fit rings and you want to check everything. Not to mention you need to knoch the block for the Crower rods to clear.

Also there is no ARP head stud kit for this car. You have to go custom like me and Garm. And untill you go big like him and I you don't even warrent them.

Good Luck with this disaster

XBG

advocate · 10-07-2010, 04:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

power steering fluid

don't we have electronic power steering?

cali yaris · 10-07-2010, 10:37 AM

Quote:

you need to knoch the block for the Crower rods to clear.

The Pauter rods were the same for me.

Nexus1155 · 10-07-2010, 11:54 AM

Quote:

don't we have electronic power steering?

I dunno, never looked into it. Just saying what you'd need for general motor pulls

cali yaris · 10-07-2010, 12:09 PM

Yaris = Electronic power assisted steering

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-07-2010, 12:34 PM

Kinda surprised no one has said this yet but uh...

How about you just put the turbo in and deal with pistons/rods/meth/everything else later. It's like you're trying to do brain surgery, file your taxes, build a time machine, and create a dog/cat fusion all at once. What's the rush?

advocate · 10-07-2010, 12:47 PM

I'm guessing he doesn't want to disassemble the turbo once it's on in order to get the new pistons in and sleeve the block if he wants?

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-07-2010, 12:52 PM

Gonna be pretty hard to trouble shoot...

But that's probably exactly what the installers want to have happen.

10-06-2010, 08:34 PM	#74
sleey0 Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: PA Posts: 899	Well, oif course I aint't pulling that small bastard to just pu the kit on. I am getting CP 75mm pistons and Crower rods. __________________ "And that goes for any of you, never get put down from someone who gets jealous of you; build it and prove them wrong. There will always be haters and naysayers but those are also the ones who's cars are worth less than my seats." xbgod - 9/23/2010

10-06-2010, 08:43 PM	#76
sleey0 Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: PA Posts: 899	Where can I get 1NZFE head studs? __________________ "And that goes for any of you, never get put down from someone who gets jealous of you; build it and prove them wrong. There will always be haters and naysayers but those are also the ones who's cars are worth less than my seats." xbgod - 9/23/2010

10-07-2010, 04:00 AM	#83
xbgod Banned Drives: "Burning It Down GTX2860RS XB" Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 349	Your engine builder is full of shit, will take a few hours to pull the motor correctly. And if your gonna do some piston changes that change compression and or CC you may have some trouble with that piggy back ECU. Your engine builder is working in dream land and your in for a wake-up call on this whole thing. My self and Garm got more time under the hood of these cars than your engine builder probably has in his whole career. Your whole situation is unrealistic and there is a world of issues headed your way. A few hours to put new pistons and rods in. Not if you have file fit rings and you want to check everything. Not to mention you need to knoch the block for the Crower rods to clear. Also there is no ARP head stud kit for this car. You have to go custom like me and Garm. And untill you go big like him and I you don't even warrent them. Good Luck with this disaster XBG Last edited by xbgod; 10-07-2010 at 04:44 AM.

10-07-2010, 12:09 PM	#87
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,857	Yaris = Electronic power assisted steering __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

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10-06-2010, 08:10 PM	#73
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	Where do you order from that lets you keep cancelling! Remember, you are going to lose most fluids when doing an engine pull. You really should not have to pull the engine just to do a turbo kit, but if you do, remember to stock up on oil coolant power steering fluid and brake fluid. You also might not want to pull engine depending on wall clearance, might make it harder to get back in.

10-06-2010, 08:37 PM	#75
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	Still think it would be easier just to remove the head alone and not risk things/fluids too. Also make sure you get some head studs. You cannot reuse stock head studs, most of them now a days are all stretch bolts and thats a no no on reuseability. Same with flywheel bolts.

10-06-2010, 09:01 PM	#77
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	Garm got them custom, but Toyota has them for sure i bet at like $5 per stud. Also another way to lower your compression to push more boost is to get a thicker head gasket. I don't know how much your pistons will lower them, but the headgasket is good for another .5 of a drop

10-07-2010, 12:34 PM	#88
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Kinda surprised no one has said this yet but uh... How about you just put the turbo in and deal with pistons/rods/meth/everything else later. It's like you're trying to do brain surgery, file your taxes, build a time machine, and create a dog/cat fusion all at once. What's the rush?

10-07-2010, 12:47 PM	#89
advocate Drives: car Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: location Posts: 1,033	I'm guessing he doesn't want to disassemble the turbo once it's on in order to get the new pistons in and sleeve the block if he wants?

10-07-2010, 12:52 PM	#90
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Gonna be pretty hard to trouble shoot... But that's probably exactly what the installers want to have happen.