I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease - Page 19 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-15-2010, 10:48 AM

Here's some updates for anyone wondering.

I'm now 100% sure the size of the adapters needed for water cooling are M12x1.25. I'm currently running M12x1.0 with some high temp silicone sealant and I guess it's working.

Believe it or not, but after nearly two weeks of no CELs, P0101 has come back. I've cleared it and it continues to return. Confusing? Yes.

I bought a used AEM meth kit for $180 shipped.

It'll be sitting around for a couple months, but I had money in paypal I needed to spend and that was a decent deal.

This week, I'll be continuing to work with the FIC. The first thing I'm going to do is get the O2 wire hooked up and see how much I can manipulate the signal before I start getting CELs. I've thought about it, and that + a MAF clamp could very well work to get a decent AFR in closed loop.

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-19-2010, 06:57 PM

Worked on the FIC today with nothing but negative results lol. I've decided to wait and tune once I get my meth kit hooked up (which is on its way

), but I need to figure out how I'm doing it still.

But back to the FIC. Obviously, the best case scenario as I mentioned is to get the O2 manipulated. So I hooked up the O21+ wire today (tap AFR sensor signal wire C20-47), and had nothing but problems.

As per AEM guides I tried no resistor, then resistors (in-line, before the tap location). I tried 1k, 5.5k, 11.2k and got nothing but bad results. The car would start, but it would idle very rough. Looking at my scangauge I noticed a NEGATIVE ignition timing, but the car still was able to enter closed loop. Then it started massively richening the mix until the car just stunk of gasoline (maxed at 10 on my UEGO). The resistor value didn't change the results.

The jumper harness still allows the car to run just fine, so the FIC is clearly at fault in some way. Also, I didn't get any codes... Whose got some bright ideas?

pimp my yaris · 10-19-2010, 07:41 PM

Wish I could help. I removed the top O2 sensor and richened the mixture buy 15% whenever out of boost. And obviously progressively more when in the boost. The car is runing sweet right now with no bumps or jerks and no dying at idle. Also I am in the 11-13:1 range whenever im driving in or out of boost. The car runs so much smoother now. Although I have to deal with check engine light.
I tryed to remove the bulb but their is no bulb. Its a LED soldered on a circuit board. Also that dam annoying seat belt chime is mounted on the back side of the same circuit board.
I did remove the chime but for now I left the LED connected. The light does not bother me. I am just tired of answering questions from people riding in my car. I am also thinking of recirculating those blow off gasses. The car will still dye out sometimes if you let off the gas at full boost and hold the clutch in.

Bluevitz-rs · 10-19-2010, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I am also thinking of recirculating those blow off gasses. The car will still dye out sometimes if you let off the gas at full boost and hold the clutch in.

You probably have a huge flame througher out the tail pipe too LOL

cali yaris · 10-20-2010, 12:18 AM

a little square of black electrical tape, well placed on the gauge cluster will "fix" your CEL, and can be reverted anytime.

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-20-2010, 09:38 AM

Quote:

I tryed to remove the bulb but their is no bulb. Its a LED soldered on a circuit board. Also that dam annoying seat belt chime is mounted on the back side of the same circuit board.

Couldn't you just cut the trace that powers the bulb?

I'm going to try switching firmwares on the FIC today and see if that does anything...

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-20-2010, 11:13 AM

Hey guys...

Why the hell is there oil in my intercooler? lol

It's not a lot, and it seems like it's been there for awhile. Could it be from when my return was clogged?

Bluevitz-rs · 10-20-2010, 12:27 PM

Yeah, either you had blow by from the turbo, or the seals are gone. Clean it up and if it comes back you'll know the seals are done in the turbo. If it stays clean, then it was just that one time.

cali yaris · 10-20-2010, 02:03 PM

How to clean it up? and he has to clean the piping too right?

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-20-2010, 02:09 PM

It was pooling in the intercooler, the pipes from what I could tell had an oily feel to them but eh. I think it was just the one time, otherwise I would have at least noticed I was losing a large amount of oil...

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-20-2010, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdydjded

If your return was clogged oil from the center housing has only 2 places to go, out the compressor side of the turbo (cold side) or the turbine side (hot side). Apparently it chose the compressor side. Now that is of course if nothing is mechanically wrong with the turbo itself...

Actually at the time, it chose both lol. When I fixed the clog I immediately noticed it stopped seeping out the turbo flange, so I figured the seals were good. I would like to think if it was a problem that I would have noticed I've been burning oil, which I haven't.

Anyone have anything to say regarding the FIC?

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-22-2010, 11:33 AM

Meth kit will be here shortly...

I've been digging in and trying to understand fully how this will give me improved performance, and realize advancing timing is PROBABLY going to be a big deal. I may be speaking too soon, but I have my doubts. I hate to have to do this, but I'm probably going to sell my FIC and grab an Emanage Ultimate. It looks to be the only way I'm going to get the most out of my setup.

If anyone is interested, I'm currently planning on selling my FIC (just the box, no harness) for $150.

Yoda · 10-22-2010, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Meth kit will be here shortly...

I've been digging in and trying to understand fully how this will give me improved performance, and realize advancing timing is PROBABLY going to be a big deal. I may be speaking too soon, but I have my doubts. I hate to have to do this, but I'm probably going to sell my FIC and grab an Emanage Ultimate. It looks to be the only way I'm going to get the most out of my setup.

If anyone is interested, I'm currently planning on selling my FIC (just the box, no harness) for $150.

Wo man sorry to hear about you selling it. Did you try taking your car to a tuner to see if they could get more? Would hate to see u throw away your money

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-23-2010, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdydjded

Advanced timing & boost is a major no no, Whay are you going to sell the FIC?

Running methanol injection allows for advancing timing, doesn't it? There's more power to be had there, and the FIC only retards it.

Bluevitz-rs · 10-23-2010, 12:00 PM

If I'm not mistaken, the Emanage Ultimate can only retard timing as well. So you won't be any better off. Just stick with the FIC and save your money.

xbgod · 10-23-2010, 12:53 PM

E-manage is crap...Complete shit. You shouldn't use it even if it came wraped in 50.00 dollar bills. It's cheap electronics in pretty box.

AEM/FIC alot better. Keep your AEM.

#1 I don't see why when you guys have real issues you don't call and talk to someone at AEM? Intead you rely on someone here to have a magic answer. AEM has great techs and will guide you through anything you need. They will even put you in contact with a real tunner closest to your house. That unit is quite capable of alot of things. Call and talk to the horses mouth.

#2 Meth will allow you to retard timming. That is why most people use it, to get more boost without detonation. It's like running higher grade fuel for cheap. And fellas don't use Heet and window wash fluid just buy some M1 methanol from a VP dealer. Quit being so damn cheap. It cost about 40.00 for 5 Gal. then mix it 50/50. This is your motor not a shift knob or some other gay bolt on part.

XBG

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-23-2010, 08:28 PM

Hmm, I clearly have this all mixed up. I like your idea XBG, I might try to find a tuner to talk to to get some real opinions.

I'm wondering if there's even any point to running meth if all I'm adjusting is AFRs then?

cali yaris · 10-23-2010, 09:46 PM

Quote:

AEM has great techs and will guide you through anything you need.

Not in my experience. Getting good help from them is about as easy as pulling teeth.

10-20-2010, 12:18 AM	#329
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,857	a little square of black electrical tape, well placed on the gauge cluster will "fix" your CEL, and can be reverted anytime. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

10-20-2010, 02:03 PM	#333
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,857	How to clean it up? and he has to clean the piping too right? __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

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10-15-2010, 10:48 AM	#325
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Here's some updates for anyone wondering. I'm now 100% sure the size of the adapters needed for water cooling are M12x1.25. I'm currently running M12x1.0 with some high temp silicone sealant and I guess it's working. Believe it or not, but after nearly two weeks of no CELs, P0101 has come back. I've cleared it and it continues to return. Confusing? Yes. I bought a used AEM meth kit for $180 shipped. It'll be sitting around for a couple months, but I had money in paypal I needed to spend and that was a decent deal. This week, I'll be continuing to work with the FIC. The first thing I'm going to do is get the O2 wire hooked up and see how much I can manipulate the signal before I start getting CELs. I've thought about it, and that + a MAF clamp could very well work to get a decent AFR in closed loop.

10-19-2010, 06:57 PM	#326
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Worked on the FIC today with nothing but negative results lol. I've decided to wait and tune once I get my meth kit hooked up (which is on its way ), but I need to figure out how I'm doing it still. But back to the FIC. Obviously, the best case scenario as I mentioned is to get the O2 manipulated. So I hooked up the O21+ wire today (tap AFR sensor signal wire C20-47), and had nothing but problems. As per AEM guides I tried no resistor, then resistors (in-line, before the tap location). I tried 1k, 5.5k, 11.2k and got nothing but bad results. The car would start, but it would idle very rough. Looking at my scangauge I noticed a NEGATIVE ignition timing, but the car still was able to enter closed loop. Then it started massively richening the mix until the car just stunk of gasoline (maxed at 10 on my UEGO). The resistor value didn't change the results. The jumper harness still allows the car to run just fine, so the FIC is clearly at fault in some way. Also, I didn't get any codes... Whose got some bright ideas?

10-19-2010, 07:41 PM	#327
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	Wish I could help. I removed the top O2 sensor and richened the mixture buy 15% whenever out of boost. And obviously progressively more when in the boost. The car is runing sweet right now with no bumps or jerks and no dying at idle. Also I am in the 11-13:1 range whenever im driving in or out of boost. The car runs so much smoother now. Although I have to deal with check engine light. I tryed to remove the bulb but their is no bulb. Its a LED soldered on a circuit board. Also that dam annoying seat belt chime is mounted on the back side of the same circuit board. I did remove the chime but for now I left the LED connected. The light does not bother me. I am just tired of answering questions from people riding in my car. I am also thinking of recirculating those blow off gasses. The car will still dye out sometimes if you let off the gas at full boost and hold the clutch in.

10-20-2010, 11:13 AM	#331
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Hey guys... Why the hell is there oil in my intercooler? lol It's not a lot, and it seems like it's been there for awhile. Could it be from when my return was clogged?

10-20-2010, 12:27 PM	#332
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	Yeah, either you had blow by from the turbo, or the seals are gone. Clean it up and if it comes back you'll know the seals are done in the turbo. If it stays clean, then it was just that one time.

10-20-2010, 02:09 PM	#334
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	It was pooling in the intercooler, the pipes from what I could tell had an oily feel to them but eh. I think it was just the one time, otherwise I would have at least noticed I was losing a large amount of oil...

10-22-2010, 11:33 AM	#336
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Meth kit will be here shortly... I've been digging in and trying to understand fully how this will give me improved performance, and realize advancing timing is PROBABLY going to be a big deal. I may be speaking too soon, but I have my doubts. I hate to have to do this, but I'm probably going to sell my FIC and grab an Emanage Ultimate. It looks to be the only way I'm going to get the most out of my setup. If anyone is interested, I'm currently planning on selling my FIC (just the box, no harness) for $150.

10-23-2010, 12:00 PM	#339
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	If I'm not mistaken, the Emanage Ultimate can only retard timing as well. So you won't be any better off. Just stick with the FIC and save your money.

10-23-2010, 12:53 PM	#340
xbgod Banned Drives: "Burning It Down GTX2860RS XB" Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 349	E-manage is crap...Complete shit. You shouldn't use it even if it came wraped in 50.00 dollar bills. It's cheap electronics in pretty box. AEM/FIC alot better. Keep your AEM. #1 I don't see why when you guys have real issues you don't call and talk to someone at AEM? Intead you rely on someone here to have a magic answer. AEM has great techs and will guide you through anything you need. They will even put you in contact with a real tunner closest to your house. That unit is quite capable of alot of things. Call and talk to the horses mouth. #2 Meth will allow you to retard timming. That is why most people use it, to get more boost without detonation. It's like running higher grade fuel for cheap. And fellas don't use Heet and window wash fluid just buy some M1 methanol from a VP dealer. Quit being so damn cheap. It cost about 40.00 for 5 Gal. then mix it 50/50. This is your motor not a shift knob or some other gay bolt on part. XBG

10-23-2010, 08:28 PM	#341
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Hmm, I clearly have this all mixed up. I like your idea XBG, I might try to find a tuner to talk to to get some real opinions. I'm wondering if there's even any point to running meth if all I'm adjusting is AFRs then?