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03-17-2011, 10:55 AM | #199 |
Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 412
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BUMP!
Has anyone had any long-term experience with this? The thread seemed to have died off before any long-term experience was given. |
03-17-2011, 11:13 AM | #200 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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No problems here, been a year now I think?
If you ever did have a problem you can put it back.
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
03-17-2011, 11:16 AM | #201 |
Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 412
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Cool, thanks! Just wanted to get some more feedback before I try it.
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04-21-2011, 08:41 PM | #202 |
Drives: 2008 meteorite hatchback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 960
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Wow, I can't believe I've never seen this before!
I just did this yesterday - took me an hour and a half. Removing the bolts and raising the rear suspension beam was the easy part, as long as the springs were removed and the struts were unbolted from the shock tower. The hard and annoying part was getting the bolt to line up in its new hole. Impression: the car feels more squat during acceleration, and there's less body pitch noticeable during acceleration. In the corners, the handling is much more predictable and assuring. If any of you have lowered your cars, do this! It's free (the best kind of mod), and it makes a noticeable difference.
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- HOOOEY! That's one tahny little cawr! What the heck kinda toy is that? - A Toyota Yaris - A whut Yaris? |
04-21-2011, 08:49 PM | #203 |
Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 412
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Yeah, but a word of caution, I'm lowered on DF210's, and I'm having issues with hitting in the rear. The brackets that hold the brake lines are hitting the frame on small bumps. I already cut the welds off and moved the brackets, but I'm still hitting on something on larger bumps. Next week I'll put it back on my lift and see what else needs to be moved.
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04-21-2011, 09:14 PM | #204 |
Drives: 2008 meteorite hatchback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 960
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You're still using stock shocks though, correct? I have the tokico blues and DF210's, and I haven't had any issue with the torsion bar or anything attached to it hitting the frame. This mod is probably best suited for those with upgraded shocks, but it'll work either way.
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- HOOOEY! That's one tahny little cawr! What the heck kinda toy is that? - A Toyota Yaris - A whut Yaris? |
04-21-2011, 09:17 PM | #205 |
Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 412
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Yeah, stock shocks. But for some reason the rear of my car is also sitting lower than other DF210 installs. I also live in Michigan, were the roads are very un-friendly.
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04-21-2011, 09:22 PM | #206 |
Drives: 2008 meteorite hatchback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 960
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If they're anything like Chicago roads, I sympathize.
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- HOOOEY! That's one tahny little cawr! What the heck kinda toy is that? - A Toyota Yaris - A whut Yaris? |
04-21-2011, 09:24 PM | #207 |
Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 412
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Yeah, they are like Chicago roads. Not as bad as the ones I had to deal with in Detroit.
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04-22-2011, 02:24 AM | #208 |
advocatus diaboli
Drives: 07 Yaris hatch Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jacinto California
Posts: 1,126
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I was having your same problem last week after doing this mod. How many miles on your stock shocks? My rears were dead, so I bought a new set off Ebay(33.00 each) and the problem is gone. I has three people in the car the other day, no rubbing. Of course tires/wheels/etc are a factor...
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04-22-2011, 08:59 AM | #209 |
Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 412
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The car has about 43,000 miles on it. I've only had the springs on for maybe 5,000 miles. I'd hope the rear shocks aren't dead that quick!!!
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04-22-2011, 10:39 AM | #210 | |
advocatus diaboli
Drives: 07 Yaris hatch Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jacinto California
Posts: 1,126
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Quote:
(I have df210's as well) |
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05-04-2011, 08:53 PM | #211 |
Free Mustache Rides
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so i wanna try this in the next week, running tigertecs and stock shocks. good or bad idea?
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Club SHIFT |
05-07-2011, 10:23 AM | #212 |
Only Happy When it Rains
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try it and see what happens, it sounds like it isn't that hard to undo if you don't like the result. I'd suggest grabbing aftermarket shocks though too.
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Colin Chapman disciple |
05-17-2011, 01:58 AM | #213 |
Drives: 2009 3rd Polar white Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle
Posts: 31
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Tomorrow I am moving the Opel GT to the shed so I can have room in the garage to install the coil-oversvon my Yaris. While I am at it I am going to relocate the axle to the upper pivot point. I am going to look at detouring the brake lines so they don't hit/rub on the frame. I'll also check to make sure the exhaust is out of the way. Thanks for all the tips in this forum
What I am really wondering is what the effect of raising the roll center is, which was brought up by DocB a few posts up. He didn't really explain what the effect is, or if it is a good or bad thing in the case of am lowered Yaris. |
05-17-2011, 08:26 AM | #214 |
Drives: 2009 3dr LB Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dublin, Ohio
Posts: 412
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Actually, it's not the roll center that is changed. The roll center only applies to an independent suspension like we have in the front of the car. Talking to some suspension guys, they said it helps bring the rear specs back to factory, as well as the squatting characteristics during acceleration and braking.
I'm not having a problem with my exhaust, but I'm hearing something else hitting back there still. I haven't had time to put it back on the lift to see. I'm pretty sure the exhaust is clear of everything. The brake line brackets will probably need to be moved. I just cut the welds off, and rotated the bracket towards the inside of the car, then re-welded. You could also use some big band clamps. I'll be waiting to see what you come up with if you find other things that might hit! |
05-19-2011, 01:37 AM | #215 |
Drives: 2009 3rd Polar white Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle
Posts: 31
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I have the springs and shocks removed and the axle in the upper mounts. I used a floor jack to raise the axle as high as I could without letting the jack hit the fuel pump. The bracket for the brake lines is pretty close to the frame. Maybe that is what is hitting for some people. I took a bunch of pictures, but apparently I can't upload them from my iPad. I'll send them from my computer tomorrow.
I took the advice and cut the beakers off the top of the axle and welded them to the side of the axle. Now there is muCh more clearance. |
05-19-2011, 11:18 AM | #216 |
Drives: 2010 polar white LB 5spd Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Mt. Airy, MD
Posts: 9
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hi everyone. just a heads up I did this little trick on my 07 LB lowered on df210s and everything worked out fine. I just bought a new 2010 LB, lowered it and went to change the pivot point but ran into a problem. removed the bolt, moved the bushing up to 2nd hole, put bolt back in but IT WOULDNT THREAD! after further inspection the inner hole has nothing to thread into, just a hole. maybe they removed this on the 2010+ I dont know. my car is USDM spec 3 door. something to keep in mind for you brand new yari owners
Last edited by importfantasy; 05-19-2011 at 01:33 PM. Reason: worded wrong |
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