3rd gen 1zz tb swap

[mazilla]

When you start adjusting your idle be sure to mark the adjusent screws original location before you begin. If you have to start from scratch you can back the screw out enough to completely close the flange(and choke/stall out the engine) then open it a little at a time until you get the idle you want.

This should be done at 180+ degree thermostat as the idle will drop when the water temp starts creeping up into 200.


There is a whole world of issues when you add in a light flywheel/pullies and the 1zz.

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by mazilla

This should be done at 180+ degree thermostat as the idle will drop when the water temp starts creeping up into 200.

So you're planning for "worst case" scenario, when the ECU drops the RPMs?

There is a whole world of issues when you add in a light flywheel/pullies and the 1zz.

Please share your experiences. I'm looking to add a lightweight flywheel and possibly a 1ZZ TB in the future.

[mazilla]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

So you're planning for "worst case" scenario, when the ECU drops the RPMs?


Please share your experiences. I'm looking to add a lightweight flywheel and possibly a 1ZZ TB in the future.

I have a MI crankP, the 9.46lb flywheel and Clutchmasters stage III which was half-resurfaced with their new compound making it somewhere between a stage III and IV...I forget the details as I went over it with CM a while ago, braided clutch lines.

I also have an Alpine PDX amp and a Fosgate T1.


At normal idle with 1zz

#1. Bass drops always equal rough idle, rough idle equals clutch chatter/flywheel noise(hard to describe, but it's not good) and hard take-offs if a bass drop and the clutch drop coincide.

#2. Normal idle being so low equal rough idle, which equals clutch chatter/flywheel noise(hard to describe, but it's not good) and hard take-offs if an idle drop and the clutch drop coincide.


#3. Coasting to a stop from 4th gear the ecu cannot keep up with the rapid RPM loss(due, I feel to the lighter parts) and the car stalls as I approach an intersection...embarrassing.


#4. When the water temp. gets up past 180/190(ish) the ecu manages to drop the idle a good 100-150RPM or so, enough to get me from the 850rpm area that I can live with back into the "chatter zone".


To compensate the answer is to increase idle to roughly 1000RPM. It solves those problems perfectly.

Increased idle...to the point it solves the above w/ 1zz

#1. Intense cold start idle hunt, the first start of the day, every time without fail. Engine will idle hunt to 3200/3300 before dropping back to about 500(or so) a good 6+ times...then there is a steady hold @ 3200/3300 as the engine works it way down over the course of 30 seconds to 1 min. The usual "first start" syndrome usually fixed by the ecu for people running normal idle...only it never goes away. That can't be good long term, especially when I go boost.

#2. CEL for idle control


I spent a long time over the course of a few days trying to get the idle right, I couldn't find a happy medium because of that danged idle drop @ +180 deg. thermostat.

Finally I went back to the 1nz and increased the idle to 1,000 @ 200 degree thermostat. Cold start is 2,000 rpm and then back down like a normal car, you wouldn't notice the extra RPM's if you didn't have a tach to look at. Warm idle is solid, no more stalling, shaking at lights (unless the bass drop is particularly nasty ;) ).


I haven't had the stomach to dive back into the 1zz, wit everything running smooth it's tough to convince myself it's worthwhile...