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Old 09-17-2013, 10:08 AM   #1
YodaBird
 
Drives: Gray
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 336
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebarber View Post
OT was an autocorrect for "it" when my fat fingers hit o

I get a cheaper price because I pay cash and its a small shop that I used to work next to

@weeyari: that blitz supercharged yaris I looked at (teriyumis old car) had rust starting at the rear drivers quarter just above (and I assume below) the side skirt (it was an RS).

For the $100-120 semi annually for krown, I'd do it. My dad has been krowning his cars for years. Its certainly better than one of those electric rust inhibitors. Plus it keeps things lubricated, too
The electronic rust inhibitors was put on the car when we got it, the guy at Krown said, it all depends how he applied it, either alot, or a little, never will know. With all the input, I'm probably going to get it applied, and as you said it keeps things lubricated. If I don't and I go though a winter, I could pop up seeing a little rust spot, then I'll regret it.

My theory is the electronic rusting worked, not too confident it will last two years.

Edit: I decided to go with Krown. Electronic Rust Proofing is a scam, it's only good on bridges and boats, not on cars.

Last edited by YodaBird; 09-21-2013 at 11:07 AM. Reason: Krown is the right direction
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