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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,792
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Hand tight = WRONG. Look on the filter. It says tighten the filter until it makes contact with the engine block. Then turn it another 1/2 turn. Or 3/4 turn or whatever depending on the car.
What you dont want to do it turn it more than that figureing if that is good more is better! Then it will be difficult to remove. I use ramps to change my oil. While Im under there I inspect the car for dammage, leaks, and also the condition of the CV joint boots (not really necessary any more until over 100k miles)
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 06' Yaris 1.3l Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: NZ
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Hmmm... never seemed to have a problem removing filter. (I have one of those cap-on wrench style removal tools - Works very well) I usually do an oil change every 5-8 thousand miles. I alternate between DIY oil change and a full service at the mechanics to make sure I ain't missing out on checking anything. I've been wanting to invest in ramps. They're around $100 per set but doubt they'd fit the yaris since no one in this country sells low profile ramps and ain't nobody got time to make their own ramps out of wood. |
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,792
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Quote:
To prevent leaks make sure the rubber gasket is on the oil filter you removed. Once in a while the rubber gasket sticks to the block. Putting an oil filter on top of a stuck gasket is a sure way to have a severe oil leak. Look on Clist for ramps for less than $100. I use the old ramps Ive had for years. Just shove the fender out of the way.
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,792
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Quote:
Theres your problem right there! ![]() Do what the box says NOT what others say!
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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#5 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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My original CV boots = intact with no tears. I had huge issues with this on my GTI. Finally, after replacing tlhem myself with non OEM boots (but for the GTI) that were sort of 'flexible hard plastic' made of two (for lack of a better description) 'clamshell pieces' with a very effective glue (included) I solved the problem....and didn't even have to put a jack under the car .
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#6 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 06' Yaris 1.3l Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: NZ
Posts: 46
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Travelled 180,000kms on a car owned since brand new and never replaced cv boots ^.^ |
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