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Old 11-21-2015, 12:52 PM   #1
tmontague
 
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Every time I check my brakes and prep them for winter i'm always surprised at how much pad is left on them. The Yaris is ridiculously easy on brakes.

I'm looking forward to trying out some high performance pads once the OEM's wear down
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:31 PM   #2
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By all means go for the corolla front setup! It serves me well going on 5 yrs!
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enviri View Post
By all means go for the corolla front setup! It serves me well going on 5 yrs!
Cool, what additional info can you give on yer set up ?
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:54 PM   #4
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I made a post when I first did it...seach more stolen parts from xd in the forums
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:55 PM   #5
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Although I appreciate your approach, agree the thread should get back to the initial purpose, and am by no means a grease monkey myself, I think some validity has to be given to Jason and Armstrong given the fact that they are currently pushing these vehicles in real world race events, which is where auto manufacturers have learned the most about what works and what doesn't. Again, I'm no expert and I say it with all due respect, but I can't imagine a situation in daily driving or aggressive street driving where more would be revealed about the brakes on these cars then on the track in national events. Further to that, not just on the track in national events, but winning those events with fully built Yaris' running OEM brakes.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
Although I appreciate your approach, agree the thread should get back to the initial purpose, and am by no means a grease monkey myself, I think some validity has to be given to Jason and Armstrong given the fact that they are currently pushing these vehicles in real world race events, which is where auto manufacturers have learned the most about what works and what doesn't. Again, I'm no expert and I say it with all due respect, but I can't imagine a situation in daily driving or aggressive street driving where more would be revealed about the brakes on these cars then on the track in national events. Further to that, not just on the track in national events, but winning those events with fully built Yaris' running OEM brakes.

Just my 2 cents.
Agreed. It was just the seemingly being bashed I disliked.
I work on cars all day.
N drive 80-100 miles/day in crazy (as it is everywhere) rush hr traffic, typically with the more aggressive approach.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:46 PM   #7
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Have to agree w/ JimKelly. Let's put the junk junk back in the pants and stop trying to compare lengths.

All input on this forum is appreciated and yes especially from those that race and are damn good at it. However, for the sake of everyone's gain, let's try and keep the ego's away...this is an Internet forum...let's be honest.

In the relatively short time i've been on this forum i've been able to learn more about cars than I ever thought I would. Without the input from various perspectives it wouldn't have happened. Just keep it clean and to the point of the original post and it's a win.
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Have to agree w/ JimKelly. Let's put the junk junk back in the pants and stop trying to compare lengths.

All input on this forum is appreciated and yes especially from those that race and are damn good at it. However, for the sake of everyone's gain, let's try and keep the ego's away...this is an Internet forum...let's be honest.

In the relatively short time i've been on this forum i've been able to learn more about cars than I ever thought I would. Without the input from various perspectives it wouldn't have happened. Just keep it clean and to the point of the original post and it's a win.
Agreed.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 11-24-2015, 12:52 AM   #9
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All I know is that I am not happy with the OEM brake performance with what I do for racing. I will need to look into that swap.

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Old 05-31-2017, 10:34 AM   #10
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Cool update

I have driven on the Max brakes for a few months now. Overall, I will be going back to my Toyota brake pad and rotor set up when done with these. I did machine the rotors and then painted them, and placed them somewhere in my humidity/temp controlled shed, laying flat. Ditto with the wifes Camry front rotors. I have found, from customers cars as well as my own, the pulsation concern lies with the sliders needing to be re-lubed, pending use and water drive through, etc., but typically at least at half pad life. Then for us Yaris owners, to make sure also to have rear brakes adjusted out as needed.
The Max brake comparison in my opinion, they shine over two areas only, severe panic stop and less brake fade when warm. The variable here could be I also upgraded my brake fluid on some of the fade concern, but also, I was on the lower half of the stock pads too. But, regular braking, they perform weaker than the stocks. I believe the slots and drills provide a tick more grab on panic stops. Next go around, I will put stock pads n rotors back on, but also do another brake flush with same synthetic fluid to rule out variable in fade. That said, the Max brakes were a tick cheaper with rotors and you get what you pay for, really. A tick cheaper set up. OK, but not great and going back to stock says it all. Hope this helps. If Wilwood or the like made a set up, then maybe go for that. I did also change springs and struts, this also assists in braking less nose dive.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 03-06-2020, 09:59 AM   #11
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Well, I made it to 198K miles, and the rotors held up well, only pulsate if really rompin on it. Normal braking ok. But, I am down to 4 mm on the pads, and have a low pedal. RFear brakes finally changed last night before I left work, they were a wafer on primary shoe, so done. The rotors did wear about half of my slots away. Not having great bits on the lathe, and prolly taking most of the slot away if machined, I am gonna toss the maxx brake rotors n pads. I would say, all in all not bad, normal stopping not as good as stock and emergency stopping better than stock, but not by much....I have my OEM rotors I had previously machined and painted and stored flat, so they will go back on tonight with factory pads (like my shoes, factory). Then I will bleed n flush brake fluid again tonight or soon, pending pedal feel. So, that said, I would go with maxx brakes again, but the factory pads are a cheaper option for me currently, so doin that.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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