All manual to mostly all automatic features conversion question

[atomic_hoji]

+1 to Rune above - for those looking to make the addition in future, check for existing wiring (sometimes there, sometimes not..) and add-on using factory parts, then there's no issues with wire gauges, etc.. just plug n' play!

Originally Posted by vaironl

...
The grey cable for the illumination will be connected to the brown wire from the dimmer rheostat. It seems they are different gauge values, but I have not been able to take a better look. What is the general rule of thumb here? Can I still just tap to the brown, thinner looking wire, without worrying much? The diagram does not show it needs a fuse or give any suggestions.
For the red cable, which needs 12V and has a 25A fuse, the SPAL wiring diagram shows a relay to be optional part of the process. It would be simpler to tap into an “accessory on” wire, but I am not sure if the relay is a better solution. Similar question as above, does the difference in gauge matter in this application?

Other more general questions….
To tap into the cables, I am considering using T-taps, it seems there have been debates most favoring soldering as a much better job if done well. I am not sure of how well I could solder, but have bought lots of wires to practice on. Would it be ok/safe to use t-taps until I can get my soldering skills improved and redo the wiring in a cleaner way a couple of months later?
Also, what is the best way to add the 25A inline fuse to the 12V red cable coming from the switch kit to the relay/accessory power connection. Buy inline fuse holders? Or just add female spade terminals to the wire
I am not in a rush, so am willing to learn and gather more knowledge. Just a couple of days ago I was a bit scared about the process, but after reading a decent amount of threads I am much more confident about the installation.

The general rule of thumb that I use is not to use heavier gauges downstream of lighter gauges unless you REALLY know what's what. Supplies should be the heavier gauge to carry all the supplied loads, then loads coming off gauged properly for each device. That said, also don't assume a larger wire is a heavier gauge if using non-OEM wire - "off-the-shelf" wire may meet different specs and may have the same gauge wire inside, but have a thicker insulation; e.g. "trailer" wire that is easily found, and cheap, at the local auto shop. That's my $0.02 anyway.. lol

If you're in doubt of a supply wire, fusing, etc.. you may find it easier (well, a pain in the butt, but less worrisome) to run a dedicated, fused supply wire from the battery - depending if you need constant power or not, this may need to go through a relay energized by a 12V IGN line to avoid draining your battery..

As for "T-taps" (or wire taps in general) they work; crimped connections work; soldering works.. I chose to solder on my wire harness when I needed to convert connector types - I needed to change some wire terminals, etc.. - and found I am a barbarian at soldering, however the connections are all solid. I have had the occasional issue with crimped connections slipping, so if you go that way ensure they're good and tight; not an expert with crimped connections either by any means.. Either way, adding a fuse holder inline (solder or crimped butt connector) works a treat, I would be hesitant to use removable connectors in case of them coming loose, but I'm sure it would work.

Keep us posted how you make out and good luck!
-- Adam

[vaironl]

Originally Posted by ern-diz

I had aftermarket power window switches and motors installed because I wanted power windows. I also had power door lock actuators installed and working off the alarm system. I've seen others retrofit things like OEM cruise control and power windows. Just need to dig into the forum with some searching.

Agree! I am very inpatient and this project has taught me the importance of being patient. I just like messing with things and learning on my own, but I quickly found out how horrible of an idea that was. I went through several threads in the forum, youtube videos, and the basics of electronics and am much more comfortable with the process. Getting a quote for the installation from a shop boosted my motivation right back up too .

Originally Posted by Runethecursed

I would have started with a junked touring model yaris, started yanking out parts from the door panels and seeing what I needed and gone from there, but I guess that works too. I'm a bit more comfortable with getting dirty in junkyards,

I am thinking about going this route to install a latch that hooks up to the system. I pick up family at the airport several times a year and turning the car off, to open and close the trunk gets very annoying.

Originally Posted by atomic_hoji

+1 to Rune above - for those looking to make the addition in future, check for existing wiring (sometimes there, sometimes not..) and add-on using factory parts, then there's no issues with wire gauges, etc.. just plug n' play!



The general rule of thumb that I use is not to use heavier gauges downstream of lighter gauges unless you REALLY know what's what. Supplies should be the heavier gauge to carry all the supplied loads, then loads coming off gauged properly for each device. That said, also don't assume a larger wire is a heavier gauge if using non-OEM wire - "off-the-shelf" wire may meet different specs and may have the same gauge wire inside, but have a thicker insulation; e.g. "trailer" wire that is easily found, and cheap, at the local auto shop. That's my $0.02 anyway.. lol

If you're in doubt of a supply wire, fusing, etc.. you may find it easier (well, a pain in the butt, but less worrisome) to run a dedicated, fused supply wire from the battery - depending if you need constant power or not, this may need to go through a relay energized by a 12V IGN line to avoid draining your battery..

As for "T-taps" (or wire taps in general) they work; crimped connections work; soldering works.. I chose to solder on my wire harness when I needed to convert connector types - I needed to change some wire terminals, etc.. - and found I am a barbarian at soldering, however the connections are all solid. I have had the occasional issue with crimped connections slipping, so if you go that way ensure they're good and tight; not an expert with crimped connections either by any means.. Either way, adding a fuse holder inline (solder or crimped butt connector) works a treat, I would be hesitant to use removable connectors in case of them coming loose, but I'm sure it would work.

Keep us posted how you make out and good luck!
-- Adam

Thank you for providing this piece of advice! I added a relay which is only active when the key is in the accessories on position. Initially I tried wiring the relay & separately wire it to the brown cable on the dimmer rheostat, which worked and for whatever reason it wouldn't afterward. The windows would only work when the headlight was on . I did connect the illumination to the accessory on cable (green cable), and am not sure if it's a good idea, since I have heard I don't want to add a lot of load to existing wiring except for a relay, etc. Thus far it feels very rewarding to see the windows work. I roll them up and down for no reason now lol.