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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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if the previous car wasn't burning oil than a 10 y/o cat should be fine. If not then just use a spark plug defouler to get rid of the P0420 code.
100% install as much as you can before the install of the engine. Clarence going in isn't an issue with the whole front end off the car. Once the 2zr is in the engine bay you will realise how tight it is an something like a water pump replacement will give you goosebumps. Also add dielectric grease (or silicone grease) to all of the electrical connectors on the engine. Then install the whole harness to the engine before putting the engine in the car. Then all you have to do is connect the main harness to the ecu behind the engine and you're good to go. Also have the xD ecu installed on the firewall before the engine goes in
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Quote:
You mentioned using engine hooks once. Do you have any recommendation on hooks that would work well for this install? Our shop has an engine hoist but no leveler. I'll see about getting one of those. I'm also wondering if replacing the water pump before installing the engine would be a good move. This engine has relatively low mileage so I would hope that there's still lots of life in that.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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