06YarisRS's 2ZR-FE Swap 5-Door Hatchback (Automatic Transmission) - Toyota Yaris Forums

atomic_hoji · 10-31-2018, 10:22 PM

Down to 1 OBD code is good progress! I've had mine on the road for months and there's at least 1 or 2 at any given time...

So I had a look in my 2018 Yaris manual, but the P2770 DTC (code) isn't actually listed - I either didn't download it, which is possible, or it isn't in this service manual.. The manual you had/have access to may have something in it though? Check in the auto transmission section of the manual(s) under the troubleshooting or control sections, maybe it will give you some more information. Maybe Tom knows more as he's more familiar with the automatics, but I think the SLU solenoid might be for torque converter lock-up? In which case, given the code you're getting, I think you're chasing the right rabbit hole...

I did have a peek through the manual though and it looks like on the transmission itself there is a sub-harness from the connector that runs to the shift solenoids and components on the transmission. Might be worth having a check of those connectors that the wires are good - didn't get snagged on anything moving the 1NZ out / 2ZR in, connectors are clean and seated well. It's easy to do quick - ok, maybe not 'easy' since it's in the car..

Another idea would be to disconnect the battery, disconnect the engine harness connector at the ECM and the connector C29 at the automatic transmission and do a continuity / resistance check. So, basically get a multi-meter and stick a probe in the ECM pin and the other in the corresponding C29 pin and do a. a continuity check (a connection, multi-meter usually beeps) and b. a resistance measurement to see if you have high resistance in the wire - if you do, there might be a bad solder/connection. Work your way through all 9 wires and confirm your electrical connection is solid. It's a bit tedious, but maybe worth a look if the other ideas don't solve your problem.

A/C compressor hopefully survives, but sounds like it might need oil if you hadn't added any. A Ideal Supply / NAPA or similar should be able to order a small container of PAG for you. I recall it not being cheap given the tiny size of the container.. lol

Is it your Yaris' battery that's low? I might be mis-understanding, but if you jumper it from the van and it seems to charge with a good voltage, but you remove the good battery out of the loop and it drops, that seems like the Yaris' battery is hooped.. ?

Keep at it buddy, you're almost there... that first drive out you'll be cautious, listen for problems, nervous... then you'll get comfortable and open it up - and that's when the smiles start.

-- Adam

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10-31-2018, 10:22 PM	#11
atomic_hoji Drives: 2018 Yaris SE 5MT Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Kincardine, ON, Canada Posts: 273	Down to 1 OBD code is good progress! I've had mine on the road for months and there's at least 1 or 2 at any given time... So I had a look in my 2018 Yaris manual, but the P2770 DTC (code) isn't actually listed - I either didn't download it, which is possible, or it isn't in this service manual.. The manual you had/have access to may have something in it though? Check in the auto transmission section of the manual(s) under the troubleshooting or control sections, maybe it will give you some more information. Maybe Tom knows more as he's more familiar with the automatics, but I think the SLU solenoid might be for torque converter lock-up? In which case, given the code you're getting, I think you're chasing the right rabbit hole... I did have a peek through the manual though and it looks like on the transmission itself there is a sub-harness from the connector that runs to the shift solenoids and components on the transmission. Might be worth having a check of those connectors that the wires are good - didn't get snagged on anything moving the 1NZ out / 2ZR in, connectors are clean and seated well. It's easy to do quick - ok, maybe not 'easy' since it's in the car.. Another idea would be to disconnect the battery, disconnect the engine harness connector at the ECM and the connector C29 at the automatic transmission and do a continuity / resistance check. So, basically get a multi-meter and stick a probe in the ECM pin and the other in the corresponding C29 pin and do a. a continuity check (a connection, multi-meter usually beeps) and b. a resistance measurement to see if you have high resistance in the wire - if you do, there might be a bad solder/connection. Work your way through all 9 wires and confirm your electrical connection is solid. It's a bit tedious, but maybe worth a look if the other ideas don't solve your problem. A/C compressor hopefully survives, but sounds like it might need oil if you hadn't added any. A Ideal Supply / NAPA or similar should be able to order a small container of PAG for you. I recall it not being cheap given the tiny size of the container.. lol Is it your Yaris' battery that's low? I might be mis-understanding, but if you jumper it from the van and it seems to charge with a good voltage, but you remove the good battery out of the loop and it drops, that seems like the Yaris' battery is hooped.. ? Keep at it buddy, you're almost there... that first drive out you'll be cautious, listen for problems, nervous... then you'll get comfortable and open it up - and that's when the smiles start. -- Adam