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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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She runs!!!!
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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She does! I am concerned a bit about the fuel trims. The STFT and LTFT are around +18 to +19. I'm hoping that it's not related to the fact that I'm using a vented valve cover filter and it's resulting in a vacuum leak, as I believe you alluded to. But, this is what I was advised to do. The other thing is that I don't know if the downstream o2 sensor has any bearing on fuel trims as it's completely disconnected. The odd thing is is that no codes have been set and the car has run 5 - 6 times for a total of about 1/2 hour. Also not sure how the F/IC will affect these readings. As happy as I was that the car started right up - literally on the first crank - I was hoping that when it ran, it would run the same as before the kit. The engine is extremely smooth and may be idling a couple hundred RPM above normal - around 750 RPM. I will go back and check all my other vacuum hoses.
I did rev it up to about 3500 RPM - only after about a total of 20 minutes of idling - and the turbo spooling kinda freaked me out a bit. It's quite a high pitched squealing sound, though I did have my intake off for this initial testing. I paniced a wee bit as it sounded a little like metal on metal, but after watching a few youtube vids on turbo sounds, it's quite similar. Plus, I'm getting great oil flow through the turbo. It did take a bit to prime the cooling system after some coolant loss from having the heater hoses, throttle body coolant lines etc off. I appear to be getting decent coolant flow through the turbo as the cooling hoses are getting warm. The only thing is is that the upper heater hose isn't really getting that warm, but the lower one is. And, my heater isn't putting out as much heat as before. It is warm but not hot. There may still be some air in the system. Also, the turbo cooling lines are considerably smaller than the actual heater hoses, so there may be some restriction of volume happening there. Trevor, could you do me a big favor at some point? If you get a chance and are willing, next time you run your car, could you compare the temps of the upper and lower heater hoses and see if they are similar as your car reaches operating temp? Maybe let me know how long it takes for those two hoses to reach a similar temp? I haven't really run mine at temp for very long, so maybe the upper hose (return to engine line, I presume) needs longer to heat up. I tapped into the hose that comes out of the driver's side of the block. The return line, I believe enters the rear of the block. I don't think it actually matters which hose is tapped into.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-26-2019 at 12:33 AM. |
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