Can anyone help with me with my AC?

[06YarisRS]

You will want a manifold gauge setup. You need to be able to watch high side and low side pressures and how they relate to each other to make a diagnosis. Low side pressure alone will tell you nothing, especially if you have adequate pressure there. Those single shot recharge kits are, imo, the wrong tool to use for a properly operating A/C system as they only allow you to see part of the picture. I knew sweet FA about A/C, but with a bit of reading and practice, I've evacuated and recharged my system twice (once as I swapped my engine and again as I had a faulty used compressor), plus adjusted and temperature corrected refrigerant levels. It seems complicated, but it's actually pretty easy.

Once you have a manifold gauge set, here are a couple docs to refer to. If you're using 12A refrigerant, I believe it takes a lot less than R134 to reach spec pressures. The pressures in the charts below work for both 134 and 12A. And, the refrigerants are compatible (confirmed by a couple of A/C shops), but I did a complete replacement rather than blending refigerants.

[SirDigby]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Once you have a manifold gauge set, here are a couple docs to refer to. If you're using 12A refrigerant, I believe it takes a lot less than R134 to reach spec pressures. The pressures in the charts below work for both 134 and 12A. And, the refrigerants are compatible (confirmed by a couple of A/C shops), but I did a complete replacement rather than blending refigerants.

WTF is 12a refrigerant? all i do all day is repair a/c recovery machines. i have never heard of 12a refrigerant. i would defiantly not put some other type of refrigerant in your car.
did you discharge that A/C Pro garbage into your vehicle? i hope not because that stuff is total junk! never use any products that contain any type of stop leak. you will most likely need to replace every component in the system if you use this stuff.
also, if this "12a" uses less weight to achieve pressure it would have an adverse effect on low pressure switch and expansion valve causing a lubrication issue resulting in system damage.
but, a manifold gauge set is key to diagnosing issues in A/C system...

[NYC-SE]

Originally Posted by SirDigby

WTF is 12a refrigerant?

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/HC-12a

[SirDigby]

Originally Posted by NYC-SE

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/HC-12a

oh great. propane and butane mixture for replacement in a R12 system.
yeah, differently do not put that in your car...

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by SirDigby

oh great. propane and butane mixture for replacement in a R12 system.
yeah, differently do not put that in your car...

Read more on the topic before you come to conclusions. To put it in perspective my 2010 outback has a total of 6 ounces of r12a in it. It would combust formless than half a second if ignited.

And yes even r134a is flammable once mixed with a/c oil, not to mention the 45L of combustible fuel behind our passengers seats.

R12a runs at lower high pressure and very slightly higher low pressures so the low pressure switch has no issue recognizing the system is filled. The overall system just runs at lower head pressures which arguably can mean less wear and tear on the system. It is not a patentable refrigerant unlike Dupont's so conveted r134a. Interesting how as soon as a patent wears out suddenly a "new" refrigerant comes to the market.

Up here we cannot buy r134a without a refrigerant license so r12a is the only option (more economical as well) to do our own a/c work. Also is can technically be vented to atmosphere as it is not ozone depleting

I do agree not to use stop leak products unless you are just trying to get rid of the car