Rattling sound on Yaris when A/C is off

[Konstantin88]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

This should be an easy fix. You should just be able to hold it with your hands and bend the pipe out. You will only need to come out 1/8" to 1/4". I bent that exact section down about 3/4" after my engine swap, as there was too much strain on the rubber hose end that attached to the compressor.

As for the rust at the subframe, my advice would be to get some oil or some other thin oil-based substance in there soon. Rust Check "red" in cans would be perfect. I'd literally unload half a can in each side. It may drip out, so putting an oil blanked or something under there might be a good idea. The oblong rubber plugs just outboard of those supports should access the inner cavity. When I am done welding, I plan to drill a hole at the lowest part and install a 1/2" plastic plug. That way I can access the area easily when I do my twice annual rustproofing.

Addition: If you do take out those rubber oblong plugs, you might note that the area is filled with sand and debris. I took the equivalent of about a cup of sand and crap out of each side. This is the 'design flaw in this generation of car (hatch, not sure about the sedans). That stuff in there holds water like a sponge.

Thank you for your help. I have bent the tube away from the body, and now the tube is at a safe distance of ~0.5" or so from the former point of contact.

I am going to remove the oblong rubber plug and spray this product into the body cavity on each side. How does the debris get into the cavity? Would drilling a hole in the lowest part of the cavity automatically make the vehicle fail the provincial inspection?

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by Konstantin88

Thank you for your help. I have bent the tube away from the body, and now the tube is at a safe distance of ~0.5" or so from the former point of contact.

I am going to remove the oblong rubber plug and spray this product into the body cavity on each side. How does the debris get into the cavity? Would drilling a hole in the lowest part of the cavity automatically make the vehicle fail the provincial inspection?

Yes, that rubber plug. Maybe poke around the other side of the axle arm support and see if there are any access points to spray in your rust check. I think there might be a small access point or two. I doubt that an inspection station would even know that a plug was not a factory plug if I do drill and plug a hole. I am not positive how the junk enters that cavity, but I expect I'll know by the time I've finished repairing mine. I just have to practice more welding of very thin metal before I start the reconstruction.

Good to hear that your A/C noise is gone. I hate rattles, creaks, clunks and any other sounds that are not supposed to be there. Haha. Oh, and your car is in great shape back there, unlike many from the Maritimes. We seem to used an astronomical amount of road salt here. I think the DOT operates under the assumption that if they don't use all their salt in a year, they won't get budgeted as much the following year. I've seen them dumping salt on dry roads with no weather forecasted. End-of-rant.

[Konstantin88]

Back in Edmonton they would mostly use rocks instead of salt, not a much better alternative with all the chipping and ensuing rust.

Thank you, you are very friendly and helpful, I will keep an eye on your engaging detailed repair blog. I first found this forum in 2012, it brings back many good memories, so glad it is still alive.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by Konstantin88

Back in Edmonton they would mostly use rocks instead of salt, not a much better alternative with all the chipping and ensuing rust.

Thank you, you are very friendly and helpful, I will keep an eye on your engaging detailed repair blog. I first found this forum in 2012, it brings back many good memories, so glad it is still alive.

You're very welcome, my friend.

I would prefer rock chips as they are on the outside and can be touched up. The salt is so insidious once it gets into the inner panels.