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Old 10-22-2020, 12:57 PM   #1
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desircustoms View Post
Try playing around with the "maf map". I've had stuttering issues around 3-3.5k rpm at 120km/h, I smooth out the voltage on the maf map around 3-4k rpm and it stopped stuttering.
I wish I had the stock maf voltage data, so I could build the map accordingly.
Interesting! When you say smoothed out the voltages, did you just make the values between adjacent cells closer together?

Here is my current maf map.

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Old 10-22-2020, 01:08 PM   #2
Desircustoms
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Interesting! When you say smoothed out the voltages, did you just make the values between adjacent cells closer together?

Here is my current maf map.

Yes, exactly... I 1st tried something similar to yours, but had some issues, now its starts from 1v to 3.8v... Will post a screenshot later.
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Old 10-23-2020, 11:48 PM   #3
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desircustoms View Post
Yes, exactly... I 1st tried something similar to yours, but had some issues, now its starts from 1v to 3.8v... Will post a screenshot later.
Awesome! I look forward to a pic of your MAF map. Thanks!
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 11-02-2020, 05:53 PM   #4
Desircustoms
 
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Awesome! I look forward to a pic of your MAF map. Thanks!
I actually think I might have a leak somewhere, maybe that's why I have to crank the voltage higher than you. And we also have different engines.

My car is always stalling when idling ever since the cold started... Will post more on my thread whenever I figure it out.
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:55 AM   #5
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desircustoms View Post
I actually think I might have a leak somewhere, maybe that's why I have to crank the voltage higher than you. And we also have different engines.

My car is always stalling when idling ever since the cold started... Will post more on my thread whenever I figure it out.
Sorry to hear that man. Do you have leak testing stuff? I had idle stalling before I installed a resistor on the crankshaft sensor wiring, but my stalling occurred when the engine was at operating temp.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 11-05-2020, 05:42 PM   #6
Desircustoms
 
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Sorry to hear that man. Do you have leak testing stuff? I had idle stalling before I installed a resistor on the crankshaft sensor wiring, but my stalling occurred when the engine was at operating temp.
Thanks I will try the resistor soon, it might be the culprit, as I had crank sensor code came up once or twice throughout the summer.
I double checked and tighten all the clamps. I tried swapping spark plugs, shortened the gap to .03" and it still dies at operating temps. It must be fic related because it still does it after I zero'd all the maps, and the car was running fine before I wired the fic.
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Old 11-05-2020, 06:45 PM   #7
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
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Posts: 2,384
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desircustoms View Post
Thanks I will try the resistor soon, it might be the culprit, as I had crank sensor code came up once or twice throughout the summer.
I double checked and tighten all the clamps. I tried swapping spark plugs, shortened the gap to .03" and it still dies at operating temps. It must be fic related because it still does it after I zero'd all the maps, and the car was running fine before I wired the fic.
Yeah, I found out about this fix on the Scion forums. The theory is that the F/IC is overly sensitive to the somewhat 'dirty' signal from the stock sensor. Apparently, the 2.2Kohm resistor bridging the crank sensor + and - wires cured problems for many, but not for everyone. I think that the experimentation that resulted in a cure was designed to address mid range RPM bucking, but a side effect was improved idling. Unless, it was purely a coincidence, my car's idle issues completely disappeared when I installed the resistor. I can't remember the wattage rating of the resistor, but I think it was 1/4 watt or something like that. I actually bought a pack of 8 or 10. I could mail you a couple, free of charge of course, but it would probably be easier and quicker for you to pop into an electronics store and grab a few.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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